Thanks - very interesting reading. As you say, it sounds like a rather extreme case, so I think I will do a single iteration before my next oil change, and couple it with a LM Flush and CCV change.Read post #18. This was an EXTREME case, but the details of how might be of interest to you?
Heyo, Just looking for advice as I have looked around every post and haven't had much luck. I am experiencing very heavy oil consumption as well as a blueish whiteish smoke coming from the exhaust. Around 1L/100km of oil with using both 5w30 and 10w40. There is still vacuum within the...www.e46fanatics.com
Well, as long as it can be done with the manifold on, I'm prepared to go for it.Yes it's more difficult to install, owing to the increased diameter of the pipes. It has insulation wrapped around them.
The idea behind the insulation is to retain heat longer after shut down. Allowing any trapped moisture to continue on it's journey before cold ambient temperatures take over.
We only install the later (insulated) version here.
I would only consider pulling the mainfold off if I were doing the gaskets - I've just done the three blanking plugs for the spare vacuum ports (one was leaking) and I did my DISA o-ring and throttle body/ICV clean a while back. My game of "chase the vacuum leak" is currently on hold... until the next one, of course!Removing the manifold makes for easier CCV replacement AND allows you access to a lot of other potential maintenance items in case you want to keep going down the rabbit hole (coolant hard pipes, starter, vacuum caps on the rear of the manifold, some gaskets, etc.). Plenty of threads of people diving under there any replacing everything in sight while it's accessible.
Not sure how far you want to go but thought I'd at least mention the potential items you could add to your project.
I thought I heard mention of someone who said you should tilt the entire e46 so the engine is more level. Not sure how easy that would be. Probably not very...Pouring a cleaning solution into the tops of the pistons works, albeit there's a large issue:
Gravity and the angle that the engine (slant 6 in old school terms) sits at. Within seconds all of the solution will be at
6 O:Clock on the pistons/rings.
I'd think you'd be better served with Liqui Moly engine flush and a couple of rapid (say 1,00 ea.) oil changes with Leichtlauf 5-40.
I've seen this as well, but getting to 30 degrees with axle stands is not gonna happenI thought I heard mention of someone who said you should tilt the entire e46 so the engine is more level. Not sure how easy that would be. Probably not very...
It's looking as though the O2 mod would make more and more sense for me, tbh...Short tripping any modern car with a sealed crankcase ventilation system (all AFAIK) is a bad idea in general. The insulation is there to retain some heat to allow any water moisture (heat anything up and cool it down outside) it can make moisture, including inside an engine. to drip down/away from the control diaphragm.
Naturally this assumes you generate enough heat (see above) to make all of this happen.
Although not generally a fan of such, could be your answer.It's looking as though the O2 mod would make more and more sense for me, tbh...
This is the guide I intended to follow.