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2001 325i 80,000 miles
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
No.
I've seen some horribly gunked up engines online. Despite all of the goo, the can lobes and sensors usually remain working.
Up until the oil no longer lubricates. Then you have bigger issues.
Do they have an interval, that you know of?
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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Not really. They're good until they're not.
My E39 530 is from 2003 and 110K still in there from 18 years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Update - I'm considering using Berryman B-12 for the soak... any thoughts?

Also, I'm seeing that people are rocking their cars in gear to move the cylinders, but I am very wary of doing this when it could push the solvent into the valves; I'm thinking of putting each cylinder (pair) at TDC to close the valves and using a bit of compressed air at very low pressure to push the solvent through - is this feasible/wise?

Thanks.
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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Read post #18. This was an EXTREME case, but the details of how might be of interest to you?

 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Read post #18. This was an EXTREME case, but the details of how might be of interest to you?

Thanks - very interesting reading. As you say, it sounds like a rather extreme case, so I think I will do a single iteration before my next oil change, and couple it with a LM Flush and CCV change.

Regarding the CCV, I intend to do it without taking the manifold off, and I have found the winter version of the system an Ali for the same price as the "summer" version over here - is the winter version any more difficult to install, do you know?
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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Yes it's more difficult to install, owing to the increased diameter of the pipes. It has insulation wrapped around them.
The idea behind the insulation is to retain heat longer after shut down. Allowing any trapped moisture to continue on it's journey before cold ambient temperatures take over.

We only install the later (insulated) version here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Yes it's more difficult to install, owing to the increased diameter of the pipes. It has insulation wrapped around them.
The idea behind the insulation is to retain heat longer after shut down. Allowing any trapped moisture to continue on it's journey before cold ambient temperatures take over.

We only install the later (insulated) version here.
Well, as long as it can be done with the manifold on, I'm prepared to go for it.
 

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Removing the manifold makes for easier CCV replacement AND allows you access to a lot of other potential maintenance items in case you want to keep going down the rabbit hole (coolant hard pipes, starter, vacuum caps on the rear of the manifold, some gaskets, etc.). Plenty of threads of people diving under there any replacing everything in sight while it's accessible.

Not sure how far you want to go but thought I'd at least mention the potential items you could add to your project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Removing the manifold makes for easier CCV replacement AND allows you access to a lot of other potential maintenance items in case you want to keep going down the rabbit hole (coolant hard pipes, starter, vacuum caps on the rear of the manifold, some gaskets, etc.). Plenty of threads of people diving under there any replacing everything in sight while it's accessible.

Not sure how far you want to go but thought I'd at least mention the potential items you could add to your project.
I would only consider pulling the mainfold off if I were doing the gaskets - I've just done the three blanking plugs for the spare vacuum ports (one was leaking) and I did my DISA o-ring and throttle body/ICV clean a while back. My game of "chase the vacuum leak" is currently on hold... until the next one, of course!
 

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Pouring a cleaning solution into the tops of the pistons works, albeit there's a large issue:
Gravity and the angle that the engine (slant 6 in old school terms) sits at. Within seconds all of the solution will be at
6 O:Clock on the pistons/rings.

I'd think you'd be better served with Liqui Moly engine flush and a couple of rapid (say 1,00 ea.) oil changes with Leichtlauf 5-40.
I thought I heard mention of someone who said you should tilt the entire e46 so the engine is more level. Not sure how easy that would be. Probably not very...
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I thought I heard mention of someone who said you should tilt the entire e46 so the engine is more level. Not sure how easy that would be. Probably not very...
I've seen this as well, but getting to 30 degrees with axle stands is not gonna happen :)

I'll just put enough solvent into the bores to cover the tops completely - one bottle of Berrymans is 15 oz, so 2.5 oz per pot; that's just over half an inch of depth if they were flat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Any thoughts on this mixture: Acetone/ATF/diesel 1:1:1, warmed up, poured into a warm engine.

?

I'm being warned against Berrymans, but people are also suggesting MEK (same as butanone, as far as I know).

With regard to the winter CCV, my car only ever does short journeys - is that a reason to invest in it? I am tempted to chuck the normal CCV on and then bypass it with the O2 mod, to be honest - the CCV swap would then only be to make sure the dipstick return tube is clear.
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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Short tripping any modern car with a sealed crankcase ventilation system (all AFAIK) is a bad idea in general. The insulation is there to retain some heat to allow any water moisture (heat anything up and cool it down outside) it can make moisture, including inside an engine. to drip down/away from the control diaphragm.

Naturally this assumes you generate enough heat (see above) to make all of this happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Short tripping any modern car with a sealed crankcase ventilation system (all AFAIK) is a bad idea in general. The insulation is there to retain some heat to allow any water moisture (heat anything up and cool it down outside) it can make moisture, including inside an engine. to drip down/away from the control diaphragm.

Naturally this assumes you generate enough heat (see above) to make all of this happen.
It's looking as though the O2 mod would make more and more sense for me, tbh...
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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It's looking as though the O2 mod would make more and more sense for me, tbh...
Although not generally a fan of such, could be your answer.
My wife (before covid) drove 7 min to the train park. I couldn't have it.... so, I would start her car each morning and let it run for 10-15 min before she left.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
I've decided to use the normal CCV with the O2 mod - I'm being told by owners that the cold climate version is overkill for the UK - until my next oil change; if the situation has not improved, the pots are getting a nice bath in warm acetone/ATF/diesel for a couple of days. Apparently the vacuum port on the CCV is the same size as the smaller ones on the back of the manifold, and all of mine are plugged, so I would only need 1 m of the BMW 3.5x1.8 hose for the connection.

I'm doing the valve cover gaskets as well, in the meantime - I've read that defective ones can lead to spark plug oil fouling (not sure how, but it's cheap and easy to do, and no record of it being done before so I might as well).

I'll schedule it for as soon as I get five days' holiday, which would give me nine days total... should be enough, right? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
This is the guide I intended to follow.

My priority was to make sure the oil return tube was clear before hooking up the vacuum line, but it's not much extra work to do the entire CCV. I just have to hope my valves aren't covered in mayo because I'm replacing the gasket next week, but I won't be doing the CCV until at least the end of Nov...

All three of my vacuum ports are plugged, so I could use any of them; RealOEM says that the port on the CCV can is 3.5 mm, which is the same as the two smaller ports on the manifold, so I will only need to buy some 3.5 mm ID hose, if I read the guide correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
I just looked inside the breather from my crankcase and noticed that it's close to completely clogged with cheese - should I wait until I do the CCV before I do the valve cover gasket? I wouldn't want to do the gasket and have more cheese build up while I wait to do the CCV :(.

ETA - sod it, I'm going to try and do everything next week.
I've got 2.5 whole days to get the VCG and CCV done... possible?
 
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