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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just gonna share some pics from my DIY, any comments/questions are welcome.
The reason why I decided to DIY oil pan gasket:


Before, I was going to replace only motor mounts and steering guibo. But I hate when oil is dripping, especially after recent oil separator, oil filter gasket and valve cover gasket DIYs.




A motor bar from HarborFreight:





Mounts were not in too bad conditions, but one of them leaked a bit:




Briefly, the steps I completed till this point:
1) From top: Removed air filter box with intake manifold, engine fan (thank god I switched to electrical fan, so much easier to deal with!), belt from steering pump pulley, upper rubber boot with MAF.
2) Also from top I removed upper nuts from motor mounts (16mm) and the bolt holding oil dipstick (13mm).
3) From the bottom: removed plastic shield, aluminum reinforcement plate. Removed 4 bolts, which attach CAB carriers to the body (2 from each side, 16mm).
4) Removed a bolt (13mm) that attaches automatic transmission lines to the oil pan.
5) Removed 3 bolts (13mm) holding steering pump (hoses are still attached).
6) Detached steering pump oil reservoir and put it aside (again, lines are still attached, 2x13mm bolts).
7) Detached two bolts (T10) attaching steering guibo to steering column and rack, detached the guibo.
8) Removed lower bolts (16mm) from motor mounts.
9) Put a jack and jack stand under the front subframe.
10) Attached the engine support bar to the engine (see pics), lifted the engine a bit by using its handles, so mounts become loose.
11) Removed 4 long bolts (18mm) attaching subframe to the body.
12) Lowered the subframe with the steering rack and removed motor mounts. Make sure nothing is under stress (that is why I detached p/s pump and p/s reservoir!)

To be continued....
 

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did you upgrade to OEM M3 motor mounts?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
No, I intentionally chose to use regular OEM ones. My car has 150K miles and I had no any problems with original mounts and I don't want more stiff ones, therefore - OEM is way to go for me. I also don't want to reinforce the front frame, I am not racing the car.
 

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No, I intentionally chose to use regular OEM ones. My car has 150K miles and I had no any problems with original mounts and I don't want more stiff ones, therefore - OEM is way to go for me. I also don't want to reinforce the front frame, I am not racing the car.
...because NOT race car. :eeps:

I'm in to see the oil pan gasket DIY. I need to do mine soon, ugh!
 

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Seems like a very solid investment for doing things like Headers, motormounts...and most importantly the GD Oil Pan Gasket.

So BMW recommends using silicon to seal the pan to the block...is that your plan or did you somehow find a gasket?
 

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Let me know if the coupler did anything.
I did my coupler about a month ago, I can't say it did anything. The only one didn't have any noticeable flex in it. This was at 88k miles.

Also, with regards to not using the M3 mounts... The OEM M3 mounts are not an extreme upgrade, in fact it feels perfect.. I think the factory nonM mounts are way too soft.

I upgraded both the transmission bushing and motor mount bushing to OEM M3 and it's made the driveline much smoother.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Update. Finally, took off the oil pan. Was a bit challenging.
Removed all 21 short bolts, plus two long ones (M6x100):



Then needed to remove 3 E10 bolts, which connect transmission with the pan:


To remove the last E10 bolt I needed to remove fuel filter cover to have leverage for the rachet:


And don't forget two M6x64 bolts in these holes:


I forgot about them and spent some time trying to figure out why the pan is not coming off.


Oil pump sprocket bolt seems not loose:

But I am still going to secure it by installing drilled nut with wire plus locktite.

Note, it is necessary to lower the subframe with p/s rack as low as possible to remove the pan, as well as unbolt 4 13mm bolts holding the sway bar:


So, good news - no metal debris in the pan, however, some black varnish exists. I am in the process of cleaning the engine with Auto-RX and it seems working: in some places the varnish is peeling off.
 

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Cool pics of oil pan.

How many miles and how often was oil changed?


Just wondering what the oil pan is supposed to look like after X amount of miles. Is all that burnt black stuff and crud build-up normal for X miles? I would think it could become dislodged and travel.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Cool pics of oil pan.

How many miles and how often was oil changed?


Just wondering what the oil pan is supposed to look like after X amount of miles. Is all that burnt black stuff and crud build-up normal for X miles? I would think it could become dislodged and travel.
150K miles (I bought it recently, so I put only about 3K on it). Oil changed as was recommended by BMW, once in 15K miles, used OEM BMW oil.
 
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