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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Before I begin, yes I have searched for this topic and have read countless threads. I cleaned my car with brake cleaner, drove it and checked where the leak is coming from. It seems to be coming from the following location (picture attached with highlighted box). It is some pipe that connects to the Vanos system. I saw oil residue on the pipe as well as the hex nut that.

When checking underneath the car, there is oil on the passenger side of the engine bay.

Any suggestions on what it might be? I most likely will be doing my valve cover gasket, seals and spark plugs next week.

Thanks!
 

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2016 340i xD 6-spd
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OP,

That's your vanos oil line...on the solenoid. Although poster above might be right that you also have a leak below, you said the leak was on the pass side...this is really on drivers side of engine...or probably dead center in engine bay.

You need either just new crush washers, 2 on either end of the line, but you can start with the 2 on top alone and see what happens. It could be the line itself, but if you don't see leaking between the hose and the 'banjo' fitting, then it's the washers.

Hold a screwdriver between the oil line and the engine so the line doesn't turn when you tighten it.

In case you're wrong, check the 0-ring on the oil filter cap which gets misplaced pretty regularly here. Have you changed your own oil? Not accusing...shops might misplace it also...but less likely.

On pass side of engine (along the long right side of engine (sitting in car), the VCG fails. Look for burned oil on the exhaust manifold heat shield...the two aluminum strips running below the engine 'plastic' cover.

On drivers side, the ofhg and the ccv both leak. The ofh is where the vanos oil line goes to down below.

That's a start. 4 cheap aluminum crush washers and some tightening. Protect belts from oil dripping on them when working on the line.

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That's your vanos oil line...on the solenoid. Although poster above might be right that you also have a leak below, you said the leak was on the pass side...this is really on drivers side of engine...or probably dead center in engine bay.
Yes, when I checked under the car about 2 weeks ago (when I was changing my fuel filter) I saw by the belts, there was oil. This seems to make sense because the oil leak started happening right after I installed my new camshaft sensor and the VANOS solenoid had to be taken off to get to it. I've attached some more pics when I was underneath the car two weeks ago. There was also some oil on the lower radiator hose.

You need either just new crush washers, 2 on either end of the line, but you can start with the 2 on top alone and see what happens. It could be the line itself, but if you don't see leaking between the hose and the 'banjo' fitting, then it's the washers.
How hard is it to get the line off? Also, would you know the diameter I would need for the crush washers?


In case you're wrong, check the 0-ring on the oil filter cap which gets misplaced pretty regularly here. Have you changed your own oil? Not accusing...shops might misplace it also...but less likely.
This was one of the first things I checked when trying to diagnose. I do change my oil and the O-Ring is installed fine. I even made sure the oil filter cap is torqued to the appropriate level (18 N*m).

On pass side of engine (along the long right side of engine (sitting in car), the VCG fails. Look for burned oil on the exhaust manifold heat shield...the two aluminum strips running below the engine 'plastic' cover.

On drivers side, the ofhg and the ccv both leak. The ofh is where the vanos oil line goes to down below.

That's a start. 4 cheap aluminum crush washers and some tightening. Protect belts from oil dripping on them when working on the line.
I will be doing the VCG anyways next week as I am approaching 100k miles (at 93k right now). Hopefully I get my VANOS seals in time when I order them on Wednesday (hopefully) so I can do those too, as well as the spark plugs.

I really don't want to do more work than I need to, especially if I can avoid doing the oil filter housing gasket. I am suspecting it's the VANOS line as you mentioned. How hard would it be to replace the whole line?

Thanks!
 

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If you didn't do the camshaft sensor yourself, then the shop didn't replace crush washers...dealer item...cheap and in stock undoubtedly. Very easy...one wrench, and as I said, for the final tightening, block the line itself from moving too much in. You probably don't need a new line, just the top two crush washers. And although some might say just tighten it, you might be a degree away from cracking it too...I don't know your feel for torque, etc...just get new washers...no oil will leak at all practically (iirc), but throw trashbag on belts. Five mins. maybe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you didn't do the camshaft sensor yourself, then the shop didn't replace crush washers...dealer item...cheap and in stock undoubtedly. Very easy...one wrench, and as I said, for the final tightening, block the line itself from moving too much in. You probably don't need a new line, just the top two crush washers. And although some might say just tighten it, you might be a degree away from cracking it too...I don't know your feel for torque, etc...just get new washers...no oil will leak at all practically (iirc), but throw trashbag on belts. Five mins. maybe.
I did do the camshaft position sensor myself and did not replace any washers when doing so. However, when I did the CPS, I did not need to take this VANOS line off, just the solenoid.

For the CPS, all I did was detach the air filter housing, unscrewed the power steering fluid reservoir and took of the VANOS solenoid to get to the sensor.
 

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I did do the camshaft position sensor myself and did not replace any washers when doing so. However, when I did the CPS, I did not need to take this VANOS line off, just the solenoid.

For the CPS, all I did was detach the air filter housing, unscrewed the power steering fluid reservoir and took of the VANOS solenoid to get to the sensor.
Sorry...I've done one also...knew banjo bolt was in the neighborhood...didn't inspect under my hood to verify!

Try tightening a little...if on tight, clean...maybe you'll see origin of leak. If from the hose itself...it was about $50 from dealer...oil will leak, but detach from bottom first is all...though this is a pretty strong hose...if $50 ain't horrible, that's a guarantee fix for this for a while...or, just try the washer solution for now and monitor. You need this hose working...but it won't likely just blow apart and strand you!
 

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I'm suspecting the same thing on mine and first thought it was likely the crush washers but I do have some oil showing on the hose in the spot where it is most likely to leak (if the hose is leaking).
 
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