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It would appear my E46 is burning oil very, very fast. Like 1 quart per 250 miles. This may be because I beat the hell out of it, half of my time spent driving it is banging through gears, and driving the car pretty hard. So after about 20 minutes of doing that burnt oil starts to blow through the vents and into the cabin, I have replaced the VCG twice in the past year, so I am 99% sure that isn't the culprit. I have also noticed that after about 15 minutes of idle, the car will start misfiring on multiple cylinders and require me to turn the car off and back on to get it to stop. I know the M54 burns oils, but at this rate it seems like a cause for concern. Is it just because I drive her hard, or is there another underlying issue. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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It would appear my E46 is burning oil very, very fast. Like 1 quart per 250 miles. This may be because I beat the hell out of it, half of my time spent driving it is banging through gears, and driving the car pretty hard. So after about 20 minutes of doing that burnt oil starts to blow through the vents and into the cabin, I have replaced the VCG twice in the past year, so I am 99% sure that isn't the culprit. I have also noticed that after about 15 minutes of idle, the car will start misfiring on multiple cylinders and require me to turn the car off and back on to get it to stop. I know the M54 burns oils, but at this rate it seems like a cause for concern. Is it just because I drive her hard, or is there another underlying issue. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I don't know how many miles is on the car. But if the car is over 10 years old and if you have not changed the ccv...that could be a place to start. My experience has been changing the ccv when I was concerned about my m54 burning great amounts of oil. And your car is not leaking did you say?

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Discussion Starter #3
The car has 158k miles, and I am pretty sure the CCV is original, and no there isn't a drop of oil underneath the car.
 

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The car has 158k miles, and I am pretty sure the CCV is original, and no there isn't a drop of oil underneath the car.
Suction strong?
Simple test...
With the engine at idel
Take the oil cap off engine
Using the palm of your hand...place the hand over the outlet/inlet...and feel for suction...
Strong? Replace ccv
Weak/lite? Your good for now.

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Yeah I did that, and I'm not really sure what strong suction would be, but there's what I would wanna say is a moderate vacuum when I take the filler cap off. The engine also begins to stumble when I take it off.

Edit: I forgot to mention, the car will occasionally throw lean cylinder bank 1 and 2 codes, not sure if that has to do with this issue but I thought I'd mention it.
 

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Yeah I did that, and I'm not really sure what strong suction would be, but there's what I would wanna say is a moderate vacuum when I take the filler cap off. The engine also begins to stumble when I take it off.

Edit: I forgot to mention, the car will occasionally throw lean cylinder bank 1 and 2 codes, not sure if that has to do with this issue but I thought I'd mention it.
When removing the hand does it take much effort?

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Get OBDFusion and take a look at the LTFT and STFTs. Set up a dashboard and watch them. Read here to figure out what they mean.

You absolutely need a new CVV, and likely a bunch more, but it is all doable. What have you done maintenance-wise on the car?

Look in my sig for suggested maintenance of higher-mileage cars.
 

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After you've changed the CCV system and if you still have issues, get with me and we'll get your rings cleaned up.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Get OBDFusion and take a look at the LTFT and STFTs. Set up a dashboard and watch them. Read here to figure out what they mean.

You absolutely need a new CVV, and likely a bunch more, but it is all doable. What have you done maintenance-wise on the car?

Look in my sig for suggested maintenance of higher-mileage cars.

Here's a list of everything that I have done to the car since I purchased it in a heavily deteriorated state about a year ago.
-New Clutch and Pressure Plate
-Valve Cover Gasket
-Head Gasket
-Coils and Spark Plugs
-Replaced a few broken hoses that were causing a vacuum leak
-Slotted and Drilled Rotors
-Front Control Arms/Bushings
-Starter and Fuel Pump
-Radiator
-Installed a Cooling System Overhaul Kit

I may be missing a few things, but those are the big ones.

When removing the hand does it take much effort?

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In response to the vacuum question, no it isn't very difficult to remove my hand from the filler cap. However, like I said the engine does idle a bit rough when the filler cap isn't on.
 

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i had the same problem a few years ago. improved dramatically when i replaced the ccv and switched to liqui moly leichtlauf 5w40. it seems the issue is carbon buildup on the m54 low tension piston rings. good advice here is to clean the rings or replace them with m52tu or redesigned mahle rings. i'm getting ready to do the mahle rings myself.

 

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Did you accomplish all the work on the car or was it done for you? I only ask this so that we can gauge your familiarity with your car. All the advice given is excellent so far and I might add looking at the oil filter housing gasket. When this gasket leaks it is under pressure and causes quite a mess on the left side of the engine. You will not necessarily see drips on the ground under your but it will smell of burnt oil. In addition you might see oil in the spark plug wells due to a bad valve cover. Good luck.
 

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The engine stumbling when you remove the oil filler cap indicates that the CCV is working. Occasional lean codes mean you have vacuum leaks. The only way to find all of the vacuum leaks is to professionally smoke test the intake manifold.

Replace the CCV. That should have been done when the intake was off. It’s a PITA job with everything in the way, but it’s doable. The hardest part is getting the high vacuum hose from the intake to attach to the CCV body.

Definitely try the LiquiMoly oil.
 

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I am interested in getting the rings cleaned up, I am listening!

Hani:

You of all people should not be having such an issue. LOL
 

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Before you go tearing into the pistons, listen to these folks - refresh the intake (CVV and all rubber).

A lot of us use Rotella T6 and the O2Pilot mod. Your consumption is very extreme, but it has worked in many cases with the M54B30 engine and is cheap to do.
 

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I know Don but, My 02 330 has 167K miles and I end up having to add a quart of oil at about 3,200 to 3,400 miles so nothing like other's here have reported. On the other hand my 00 323 with 120K miles does not need oil between oil changes of about 7,500 miles. So I am always willing to listen to advice to make the 330 better. Thanks Don :)
 

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For sure do not tear the engine up to replace the rings. That’s a huge and risky job.
I had good results with using the liqui molly engine flush every oil change and installing a catch can. Easy, simple and it works. Using rotella t6
 
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