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Oil filter housing gasket

5K views 40 replies 14 participants last post by  yertyyerts123 
#1 ·
Hi, ive been replacing the OFH gakset today. I had a couple questions that I didnt see in the couple threads I was using. Do I need to drain the oil out of the oil pan? Or do I just loosen the oil filter on top? Also, I only have the gasket and I dont have the vanos seal crush washers. I have the alternator out and I'm ready to remove the filter housing so i can replace the gasket. Will I need to wait until I get new crush washers?

Thanks
 
#2 ·
No need to drain the oil just open up the oil filter cap before you start to minimise spillage, I'd definitely recommend new crush washers and also a new vanos oil line while you're in there if it hasn't already been replaced. Also take extra care not to overtighten the housing bolts as they like to strip, I found this out the hard way!

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#9 · (Edited)
I reused my vanos line but I replaced my crush washers. Considering how cheap crush washers are, I thought it'd be daft not to.

OP, as you haven't got new crush washers but have already started the job, I suppose you could reuse your old ones and see if you get away with it. Or borrow a car and quickly pop to the parts counter?
 
#18 ·
The M54 engine is made of cast aluminum. As with all castings, there are microscopic voids and flaws. The purpose of a crush washer is to act like a gasket to prevent leaks. One should not depend on threads for sealing liquids. When the crush washer is compressed, it conforms to the surface and accounts for any microscopic surface flaws. In the case of an aluminum crush washer, it's soft enough to be compressed and conform to the mating surface and it has similar thermal expansion to the aluminum mating surface, which helps with the sealing. In theory, once the aluminum crush washer has conformed to the mating surface, it should be replaced after removal since reinstallation would require the crush washer to once again conform to the mating surface. But that's more difficult as the used crush washer has already been previous compressed. It's a $0.99 (x2) part for the Vanos line.

That's the theory. In reality, many have re-used crush washers without any leaks. Is it worth the $0.99 (x2) gamble? Not for me unless it's an emergency and I don't have access to new crush washers. I bought a large assortment of aluminum crush washers in various sizes from Amazon as a kit. It will last me a lifetime. YMMV of course.
 
#20 ·
Another question I had. I took the filter housing off today and i disconnected the vanos line where it attatches to the block, so I could remove the whole housing. When i disconnected it, the bolt only had one washer. The washer was between the bolt and the vanos line. There wasnt a second washer between the vanos line and the engine block. Should there be one on each side like ive heard?
 
#21 ·
There should definitely be two washers. Look really hard and make sure there isn't another one that you may have miss. If there's truly only one, then someone messed up. You should have two - one on each side of the Vanos line connector. See #10.

This is the diagram for my 330xi, but it should be similar to the other years/models. Verify on RealOEM by entering the last 7 digits of your VIN.

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#22 ·
There should definitely be two washers. Look really hard and make sure there isn't another one that you may have miss. If there's truly only one, then someone messed up. You should have two - one on each side of the Vanos line connector. See #10.

This is the diagram for my 330xi, but it should be similar to the other years/models. Verify on RealOEM by entering the last 7 digits of your VIN.

View attachment 936441
+1 There should definitely be a washer on either side on both ends

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#23 ·
+2 Absolutely there should be a washer on both sides of the vanos line (on both ends).

Look closely on the side the washer is missing from, sometimes they will get stuck on the mating surface and not fall free when the line is removed. You don't want an extra washer in there either.
 
#24 ·
+2 Absolutely there should be a washer on both sides of the vanos line (on both ends).

Look closely on the side the washer is missing from, sometimes they will get stuck on the mating surface and not fall free when the line is removed. You don't want an extra washer in there either.
Ok I will be checking tmo to see. Then I will either try to get new washers at a local hardware store or could the dealership have them? I just dont want to have to order them online.
 
#27 ·
2 small things - having just done this.
-16 ft/lb torque - cross pattern on the top 4 in stages, like an earlier poster said, but in stages. i like sensing the thing compress smoothly as going in the X pattern.
-+1 on replacing vanos hose. twist it at all, and it a guaranteed leaker. contitech seems to be working for me.
 
#30 ·
Any tips for putting the new vanos line in?? I tried and tried and tried but could not quite get it in after 4 hours. I could get one side in but the other side just quite doesn have the right angle and the bolt wont thread in correctly. Also, im not sure if the engine block side has a washer that is completely crushed into the threads and is impossible to remove. Maybe its just a thread or maybe its the washer? I have absolutely no clue. I just used 2 new washers anyways but Im guessing its not good if I end up having 2 washers crushed together.
 
#31 ·
Try not fully tightening one end until both banjo bolts are threaded and the line is positioned correctly, then tighten down both ends. Perhaps it is in backwards?

If neither of those work, then I have to ask if this the Uro vanos line?

Fwiw, an extra washer would not keep you from threading the banjo bolt in.

However, make sure the old washer is not stuck on the missing side. Don't leave an extra one in there. Use an inspection mirror to see better. Its most likely stuck there otherwise it would have been leaking all this time.
 
#33 ·
The metal section of the Vanos line is not straight. One end has a slight kink in it. If you have trouble getting the connections lined up and square to the engine block, try swapping the Vanos line end-for-end and see if that fits better. Or try rotating the Vanos line (not end-for-end) so that you insert the banjo bolt from the opposite side of the same end.

The crush washer should never be "in-the-thread". It's installed similar to the oil drain plug in that is meant to be crushed between flat surfaces.
 
#37 ·
Was able to finally get the vanos line in today. I had a quick question about the gasket. When I put the new one in, I wasn't able to seat it into the groove all the way. It was mostly in, but there were some parts that were a little loose (they were in the right spot just popping out a bit) I am sure that I got all of the old gasket out and that there was no debris inside the groove. Since the side that the OFH bolts onto is flat where the gasket connects, Im assuming that after I bolted it down and torqued it that the gasket would be pushed all the way into the groove properly. Am I correct? Or is the gasket supposed to be 100% flush into the groove before you bolt it back on.
 
#39 ·
Now Im having issues getting the alternator back in. It seems like the threaded insert is sticking out just barely too far so that I am unable to slide it in. The alternator came out with now issues. Ive tried threading in the bolt a few turns and hammering it with a hammer or mallet, but that has brought no sucess. Ive also had a 17mm socket on the lug when hammering it. Im hesitant to apply anywhere near my full force to smack on it. SHould I keep hammering on it, and harder? Ive also tried to loosen the 17mm lug on the back side but it has been impossible even with a breaker bar since its out of the car.
 
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