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Discussion Starter #1
hello all,
The time has come to rid me of this nasty leak that has been costing me quarts of oil over the past few months. I've known about this leak and monitored it and it has most definitely gotten worse. I've bought the Filter Housing Gasket and a new Vanos Oil Line (because why not). I'm wondering if while I'm down there, if I should change out any other disposable seals or parts that would be crapping out at 117k. The CCV was done last year so that is fine, and I did my VCG a few months ago. I'm wondering what other parts in that area I should inspect. I was thinking about maybe changing my belts too, would that be a good idea at my current mileage? I'm not really sure how to diagnose failing belts (they work fine). I plan on draining the oil removing the bottom cover after jacking it up a little bit and doing this in my driveway.
 

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I just did this on my 2006 with 85k miles.

I changed both belts, the 2 idler pulleys in the tensioners, OFHG, Intake Boots, VANOS line and cleaned the living daylights out of the mess under the engine.

There are some DIY's if you look around with Dayco pulley part numbers.

Key to this is keep the bolts organized and use a torque wrench for best results.
 

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If you're going to go to the trouble of removing the brace (not just the plastic cover) then you should do the oil level sender with a Hella sensor which is OEM. If you're not going that far you should consider doing your full cooling refresh at this time, especially if the expansion tank is original to the car
 

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Down there? DOWN where? You do this job from the top.

Since you will be removing the belts, this is a good time to check the tension and idler pulleys. They should be tight and smoother than a baby's butt. If you can "give them a spin," and they keep going, then they are toast.

Remove the air filter box for the extra space.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just did this on my 2006 with 85k miles.

I changed both belts, the 2 idler pulleys in the tensioners, OFHG, Intake Boots, VANOS line and cleaned the living daylights out of the mess under the engine.

There are some DIY's if you look around with Dayco pulley part numbers.

Key to this is keep the bolts organized and use a torque wrench for best results.
How did you know your idler pulleys were shot? mine seem to be doing great, no excessive noise or anything. Once you remove all the parts in the way to get to the filter housing is it also a perfect time to do the intake boots? I always thought they were obscure and very difficult to do without pulling the intake man. off.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If you're going to go to the trouble of removing the brace (not just the plastic cover) then you should do the oil level sender with a Hella sensor which is OEM. If you're not going that far you should consider doing your full cooling refresh at this time, especially if the expansion tank is original to the car
I've already done the oil level sensor. That was toast when I bought the car. lol
 

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Down there? DOWN where? You do this job from the top.

Since you will be removing the belts, this is a good time to check the tension and idler pulleys. They should be tight and smoother than a baby's butt. If you can "give them a spin," and they keep going, then they are toast.

Remove the air filter box for the extra space.
Thanks for the advice on checking the pulleys :D
 

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How did you know your idler pulleys were shot?
Take the belt off and spin them by hand. If they make noise and spin freely they are bad. New pulleys will have a lot of resistance when you try to turn them and will be silent.

If you have 117k on the original pulleys the bearings inside them are bad.

There is actually one idler pulley and two tensioner pulleys. See the guide:

http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=974746
 

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You asked about failing belts...

One of the tell tail signs is that they are cracked on the ribbed side of the belt. Cracks do not mean impending doom, but they are a sign that the belt is old.

You might find that removing the fan and shroud helps to gain access to the alternator and power steering bolts that go through the oil filter housing. It is not required, but it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You asked about failing belts...

One of the tell tail signs is that they are cracked on the ribbed side of the belt. Cracks do not mean impending doom, but they are a sign that the belt is old.

You might find that removing the fan and shroud helps to gain access to the alternator and power steering bolts that go through the oil filter housing. It is not required, but it helps.
Fortunately, I don't have to deal with nonsense like that, I have a stick so mine is electric and out of the way. :D
 

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How did you know your idler pulleys were shot? mine seem to be doing great, no excessive noise or anything. Once you remove all the parts in the way to get to the filter housing is it also a perfect time to do the intake boots? I always thought they were obscure and very difficult to do without pulling the intake man. off.
I know the idler pulleys are questionable as they had 85k on them. Most folks suggest changing the idler pulleys when changing the belts. This is pretty much what I did.

As intake boots, they are not that hard for me at least. I use a long 14" flat blade screw driver and a 1/4" swivel head ratchet, extension and socket that fits the hose clamps. Takes me about 10 minutes to swap the lower intake boot once the air box and DISA are out of the way.

Replace the DISA O-ring as well, you can get them from German Auto Specialist.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm gonna buy those parts and when I do the job ill see if I can manage it.

And
The starter motor has been done a few years before i got the car. Ill look into cps as well.
 

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