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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I replaced the oil filter house seal, the leak continues. old gasket outlet surfaces were cleaned new gasket Vanos hose was installed and washers were renewed. everything was properly assembled. the car started, warmed up, and there was a leak. please help me I can't drive the car: :)(
 

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2016 340i xD 6-spd
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Did you remember that some of the ofh screws are different lengths. If you get the wrong ones in the wrong holes, it won't be clamping down the cover. Can you see where the leak is coming from? Check realoem.com to see where each screw should go (in case that's the issue).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeah, I did a diagram for the screws. I'm sure I'm wearing it right. I used Erling brand oem gasket. should I use rtv ?
 

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These things do not leak for no reason. Have you checked to make sure BOTH surfaces are dead flat, with no nicks or other damage that could cause a leak? Did you tighten the bolts in the correct order, and IN STAGES? Doing it wrong, you can over-compress the gasket on one side, and leak it under-compressed on the other.

Many here report problems with non-OEM gaskets. I am personally skeptical, but it is certainly worth a try to replace using a genuine BMW gasket.

Bottom line - there IS a reason for this, and you NEED to find it, rather than just blindly replacing the gasket.
 

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Also to add, mine dripped for a week or some after replacing OFHG. I cleaned waffle to best of ability but apparently a number of surfaces hold oil. If not more than dripping, give it a week or two to insure it's not just residual. GL
 

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I replaced the oil filter house seal, the leak continues. old gasket outlet surfaces were cleaned new gasket Vanos hose was installed and washers were renewed. everything was properly assembled. the car started, warmed up, and there was a leak. please help me I can't drive the car: :)(
The first time I did mine it leaked. Much worse than the original.
I followed advice and treated the 6 bolts as a group of 6 from a cross torquing perspective.
The state of the new gasket lead me to believe that the bolt next to the leak was not tight enough even though I had used a torque wrench set to the correct torque.
It occurred to me that the housing might be warped.
So the second time I treated the top 4 bolts as a group of 4 and torqued them up full first. They are the ones that compress the gasket. They are important.
I then did the bottom 2. All they do is support the alternator.
It has been fine since.

So that's what I recommend. No RTV.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
These things do not leak for no reason. Have you checked to make sure BOTH surfaces are dead flat, with no nicks or other damage that could cause a leak? Did you tighten the bolts in the correct order, and IN STAGES? Doing it wrong, you can over-compress the gasket on one side, and leak it under-compressed on the other.

Many here report problems with non-OEM gaskets. I am personally skeptical, but it is certainly worth a try to replace using a genuine BMW gasket.

Bottom line - there IS a reason for this, and you NEED to find it, rather than just blindly replacing the gasket.
Looking from a DIY I squeezed it as 162534 in order. what's the order for that? I didn't squeeze too hard because the body was aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The first time I did mine it leaked. Much worse than the original.
I followed advice and treated the 6 bolts as a group of 6 from a cross torquing perspective.
The state of the new gasket lead me to believe that the bolt next to the leak was not tight enough even though I had used a torque wrench set to the correct torque.
It occurred to me that the housing might be warped.
So the second time I treated the top 4 bolts as a group of 4 and torqued them up full first. They are the ones that compress the gasket. They are important.
I then did the bottom 2. All they do is support the alternator.
It has been fine since.

So that's what I recommend. No RTV.
I'll try it, squeeze it again. is it bolt row 1234 1423 ?
 

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I'll try it, squeeze it again. is it bolt row 1234 1423 ?
1423. Also be careful to ensure that the gasket doesn't get damaged or dislodged by the dowel on the block when you are mounting it.
You should use a torque wrench too. 16 ft lbs / 22 Nm according to Bentley.

You can see where the new gasket has disintegrated at the dowel corner in the attached pic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
1423. Also be careful to ensure that the gasket doesn't get damaged or dislodged by the dowel on the block when you are mounting it.
You should use a torque wrench too. 16 ft lbs / 22 Nm according to Bentley.

You can see where the new gasket has disintegrated at the dowel corner in the attached pic.
thanks. can I just squeeze it? or do I have to take it off and put it back on?
 

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thanks. can I just squeeze it? or do I have to take it off and put it back on?
You mount the gasket in the groove provided in the OFH. Then carefully lift it into place and seat it on the dowel.
The vanos oil hose attached to the OFH can be a little awkward as it contacts the cover above the fuel rail.
You could remove that I suppose. Or slacken it off. I didn't.
You just have to take it slow but it is heavy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You mount the gasket in the groove provided in the OFH. Then carefully lift it into place and seat it on the dowel.
The vanos oil hose attached to the OFH can be a little awkward as it contacts the cover above the fuel rail.
You could remove that I suppose. Or slacken it off. I didn't.
You just have to take it slow but it is heavy.
I will disassemble it again and make sure of the compression torque. I am considering implementing RTV if infiltration continues as a last resort . because I think the OEM gasket is thin. I'll try to write down the result.
 

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I will disassemble it again and make sure of the compression torque. I am considering implementing RTV if infiltration continues as a last resort . because I think the OEM gasket is thin. I'll try to write down the result.
Oh I see. Yes. You just have to do the job again. No getting around that.
There is no way you can just squeeze RTV around the join and expect it to work.
One thing that I did consider if my second attempt had failed was using an old school paper gasket instead.
They always worked in the past and lasted.
You can buy paper gasket material in different thicknesses. Just draw the appropriate profile and cut it out with scissors or a box cutter.
I think paper gaskets are more tolerant of any surface discrepanies than these rubber gaskets.
This OFHG is particularly flimsy and fragile, even inadequate, in my opinion. When you compare it to the throttle body gasket for example.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Oh I see. Yes. You just have to do the job again. No getting around that.
There is no way you can just squeeze RTV around the join and expect it to work.
One thing that I did consider if my second attempt had failed was using an old school paper gasket instead.
They always worked in the past and lasted.
You can buy paper gasket material in different thicknesses. Just draw the appropriate profile and cut it out with scissors or a box cutter.
I think paper gaskets are more tolerant of any surface discrepanies than these rubber gaskets.
This OFHG is particularly flimsy and fragile, even inadequate, in my opinion. When you compare it to the throttle body gasket for example.
a paper gasket is a good idea, but I find it difficult. wouldn't it work if I applied rtv under the seal ? I'm thinking about it to thicken the gasket ?
 

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a paper gasket is a good idea, but I find it difficult. wouldn't it work if I applied rtv under the seal ? I'm thinking about it to thicken the gasket ?
The problem with RTV is that it is a gasket material and, realistically, you should apply it evenly (difficult) and wait for it to harden (24hrs) so that
it actually forms a gasket. If you don't all that happens is you squeeze it all out when you bolt down. And some of that would end up inside
the oil channels. That's why I think in this application RTV is not appropriate. A paper gasket of at least 1 mm thick to 1.5 mm thick would be a
much better alternative. But get yourself a BMW OEM gasket and bolt down 1423 to 22 Nm and you should be ok.
 

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The problem with RTV is that most use too much. Then what is left inside gets into the check valve and lifter feed bores.

We now undertorque by 1Nm, owing to all the block threads stripping of late.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The problem with RTV is that most use too much. Then what is left inside gets into the check valve and lifter feed bores.

We now undertorque by 1Nm, owing to all the block threads stripping of late.
i plan to apply a very thin rtv to the outside of the gasket if the compression does not work. Yes, I squeezed a little, because I was afraid to see a thread.
 
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