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Bimmerfest Co-Founder
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I changed my oil over the weekend to Royal Purple and figured I would do a DIY on changing oil. The details are going to vary from car to car slightly.

Quick tool list -
** 17mm Box wrench (could also use a 17mm socket)
** 36mm socket for the filter housing (you can use a channel locks, but the socket is so much easier)
** set of jack stands
** Jack. I have a craftsman from Sears. I used to use cheap jacks, but now I will never go back.

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** Use this at your own risk **
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1. My car is too low to jack up from the center jack point. To get it high enough I used the stock jack to lift it up some.
<a href="http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=232474&d=1182787779" target="_blank" ><img src="http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=232474&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1182787779" /></a>

2. With the car on the stock jack I could slide my main jack under the center jack point and get the car in the air.
<a href="http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=232475&d=1182787779" target="_blank" ><img src="http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=232475&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1182787779" /></a>

3. I then placed jack stands at the two stock jack locations and slowly lowered the car on to them.
<a href="http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=232490&d=1182788252" target="_blank" ><img src="http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=232490&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1182788252" /></a>
(had to borrow this image from another DIYs)

4. Find the drain plug and put a catch pan of some sort under it. I use a large kitty litter tray (don't ask) because of the size of it. The oil shoots out of the pan a good 12 inches so you need to either guess where it is going to end up or have a large pan. Use a 17mm socket or wrench to loosen the drain plug.
<a href="http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=232476&d=1182787779" target="_blank" ><img src="http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=232476&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1182787779" /></a>

5. Once you losen the plug with the wrench you can back it out with your hand. I push the plug in with my thumb while twisting it out with my fingers. This way you are still plugging the pan while loosening the plug.
<a href="http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=232477&d=1182787779" target="_blank" ><img src="http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=232477&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1182787779" /></a>

6. If you follow my directions about holding the plug in while loosening it you will have the plug fully loose but you are holding the oil in still. Make sure you pan is in the right place and quickly move the plug out of the way. If you do it right you shouldn't get oil on your hand.
<a href="http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=232478&d=1182787779" target="_blank" ><img src="http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=232478&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1182787779" /></a>

7. New Filter - Thanks Tisher BMW - www.mileoneparts.com
<a href="http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=232479&d=1182787779" target="_blank" ><img src="http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=232479&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1182787779" /></a>


8. Inside the filter find the rubber O ring and copper crush washer
<a href="http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=232480&d=1182787935" target="_blank" ><img src="http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=232480&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1182787935" /></a>

9. While the oil is draining out clean off the drain plug and replace the copper crush washer


10. Use a big ass socket (edit - 36mm - from bimmertools.com here) to remove the top of the oil filter compartment. If you don't have a socket you can use a rag and a channel locks.
 

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11. Once you have the top of the filter housing loose I put a bunch of paper towels in that area because I always get oil on everything :(


12. Get a plastic bag large enough for the filter and place that right next to the housing. Pull the filter housing top up and the filter and a bunch of oil will come with it. Put it and the housing top directly into the bag. Hold the filter thought the bag and pull the housing top out of the filter. This will keep most of the oil in the bag and not on you, your drive way, car, etc.


13. Clean up the housing top and remove the O ring seal


14. Slide the new filter on the housing top. Replace the o ring seal, make sure the O ring is straight in the channel and apply a light layer of oil to the O ring (stick your finger in some oil and rub it on the ring). Put the housing top with the filter now on back into the aluminum housing on the engine block. Tighten the housing top to 25Nm or until it is "good and tight".


15. At this point the oil flow should have slowed to a drip. I like to put the plug in last as I have found that a decent amount of oil comes out when you remove the filter and you want that dirty oil out. Reinstall the drain plug and tighten. The drain plug is hollow so be very careful to not over tighten it. Better to have it drip a bit of oil (as you can tighten it later) than have it break off in your oil pan.


16. I used a bit of brake cleaner to get the oil off the bottom of the pan.

17. Add new oil. The capacity is 6.9 US quarts. I used the new Royal Purple 5w40 (details here)


18. As you add the oil check the drain plug to make sure you don't have any leaks.

19. Remove car from jack stands by reversing the procedure for raising the car.

20. Double check oil level with dip stick. Remember the oil level will change once the car is level and once you have started the car and the oil flows into all the cavities in the engine.

21. Reset the service indicator (tells you how many miles till you need to change your oil again) by following these easy steps. These are not my directions so please don't ask me about this part because I have no idea.

--The car should be off
--hold down the left instrument button (the trip odometer reset)
--while holding the key, turn the ignition to position 1 (radio)
--you will see a test menu
--keep holding the button
--after maybe 10 seconds, the word "reset" will appear
--let go of the button and press again
--The indicator is reset!"
 

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Taiwan/Vancouver/Shanghai
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thanks for the write up!!


btw.. how can we attach the pix like that so we can organize words with every pic?..

did you attach the pix in another thread and then relinked them?
 

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Bimmerfest Co-Founder
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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for the write up!!


btw.. how can we attach the pix like that so we can organize words with every pic?..

did you attach the pix in another thread and then relinked them?
Glad I could help!

I attached the pictures here - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=483439

Then I included them in this thread. It is easier than resizing them in photoshop or something first. I just let the forum software do the work and make the thumbnails for me :)

Tim
 

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Gear up, shut up!
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Tim,

after seeing numerous used oil analysis for RP oils, their street variants dont do well on extended pours and actually sheer to the next lowest viscosity...so if you started with a 40wt, i will probably sheer down to a mid to low 30wt.

I ran their 5W-30 in my 4.7L V8 4runner (one of the easiest engine's on oil around) and it sheered to a high 20wt only after some 5000 miles.

I would be very very watchful of running RP to 10,000 miles.
 

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time you are the man! now all I need is a code reader to reset the damn thing!
 

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Excellent DIY...or you could use an oil evacuator if you're too lazy to get under the car.
 

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I talked to the guy at the parts counter at my local DIY auto shop, and he was saying that to run RP that the entire system should be flushed because RP doesnt work as well as it can when there is residual from the old oil, Has anyone heard about that?
 

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what stores sell Royal Purple ? i don't want to buy 12 quarts from amazon for $100, also i'm asuming a 2000 328CI can take this also
 

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Great Writeup :)

However you forget to mention how to reset the oil service light ;)
 
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