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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Plan on tackling the OFHG soon, this is not a how-to post, I've seen many around and read quite a few so I'm aware of the actual job itself.

But a simple couple of questions I couldn't find an answer to..

1) To clean the residue off when I'm in there, not a good idea to use brake cleaner? I've been under my car before and there is oil absoluteley everywhere. Want to clean it off with something so that I can actually after I change it see if this fixes my issue or not.

If brake cleaner is not a good choice, what would be?

2) Will any actual OIL leak out of the housing? From what I've read and found it doesnt appear to be but just want to be ready for this.
The reason I ask is because I planned on jacking the front end up and leaving it on jackstands.
 

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1. as long as you dont get brake cleaner into the engine you should be find but brake cleaner when heats up can be toxic so your decision.

2. open your oil filter cap and let it drain back before starting can reduce the amount of engine oil leaking out.
 

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The oil that leaks out isnt too bad. Remove the cap first to let it drain back into the pan. Once you have it off there is a little spring loaded valve that keeps the rest of the oil from coming out for the most part. If you push this thing in there may be a decent amount of oil that may spill out.

I would advice just taking the oil filter housing to a pressure washer with some simple green and give it a good spray.
 

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Open the canister and let the oil drain from the filter. You should remove the filter and toss it, then put in a new one when you are finished. Most of the reason for this is to replace the o-rings and gaskets that you really don't want to use again.

The only oil that comes out is the oil in the filter tank. There is a little bit in some of the passages, but the mess should be confined to a tablespoon of oil, or so.

BE SURE to disconnect the VANOS Oil Supply Line -- I urge you to do so at both ends -- from the housing so that you do not pull the housing out of the way and pivot it around the fittings on the supply line. If you pivot the housing out of the way with the oil supply line connected, you will damage the crimped-on fitting, and create an entirely new opportunity for a leak. IF THE FITTINGS -- the crimped sections -- are loose, the supply line is likely to be leaking already, and you will want to cough up the $50-ish for a new one. The best strategy is to remove the supply line at both ends and take it out. Be sure to use new copper washsers (4 of them) when you put it back on.

When the oil filter housing is off, you can use any number of products/methods to clean it. The side of the engine is exposed, making cleaning of the area an easy job. You want to avoid getting grease-cutting products into the oil supply -- crankcase. Anything that cuts the grease also is detrimental to the lubricative qualities of the motor oil. Obvioulsy, this is not a huge deal because you can change the oil after you change the gasket, or you can drain the oil first and then thin out any cleaner that might drop into the engine with 7 quarts of fresh oil -- surely a tablespoon or so of crud cutter will not contaminate 7 quarts of oil to the point that the engine will self destruct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes oil will leak. Everywhere. Extremely messy job.

Brake cleaner is fine.
I will take that with a grain of salt ;)

Open the canister and let the oil drain from the filter. You should remove the filter and toss it, then put in a new one when you are finished. Most of the reason for this is to replace the o-rings and gaskets that you really don't want to use again.

The only oil that comes out is the oil in the filter tank. There is a little bit in some of the passages, but the mess should be confined to a tablespoon of oil, or so.

BE SURE to disconnect the VANOS Oil Supply Line -- I urge you to do so at both ends -- from the housing so that you do not pull the housing out of the way and pivot it around the fittings on the supply line. If you pivot the housing out of the way with the oil supply line connected, you will damage the crimped-on fitting, and create an entirely new opportunity for a leak. IF THE FITTINGS -- the crimped sections -- are loose, the supply line is likely to be leaking already, and you will want to cough up the $50-ish for a new one. The best strategy is to remove the supply line at both ends and take it out. Be sure to use new copper washsers (4 of them) when you put it back on.

When the oil filter housing is off, you can use any number of products/methods to clean it. The side of the engine is exposed, making cleaning of the area an easy job. You want to avoid getting grease-cutting products into the oil supply -- crankcase. Anything that cuts the grease also is detrimental to the lubricative qualities of the motor oil. Obvioulsy, this is not a huge deal because you can change the oil after you change the gasket, or you can drain the oil first and then thin out any cleaner that might drop into the engine with 7 quarts of fresh oil -- surely a tablespoon or so of crud cutter will not contaminate 7 quarts of oil to the point that the engine will self destruct.
Really disconnect vanos at both ends? Everywhere I read it said to disconnect at one end.. I already have the stuff on hand and only ordered 2 washers instead of 4..

So you are saying the vanos line is very fragile? And could already be perhaps leaking?
 

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I will take that with a grain of salt ;)



Really disconnect vanos at both ends? Everywhere I read it said to disconnect at one end.. I already have the stuff on hand and only ordered 2 washers instead of 4..

So you are saying the vanos line is very fragile? And could already be perhaps leaking?
The VANOS oil line is known to spring small seeps/leaks from time to time. Thay are fairly inexpensive. Disconnect at both ends and replace while your in there...it will save you time later...make sure you get 4 crush washers for the VANOS oil line too. Tighten with caution, not allowing the VANOS line to move out of position while putting force on the crush washers. I replaced mine when I did my OFGH, also did the CCV kit replacement at the same time since there is plenty of room while everything is apart.
 

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I recall you have to get underneath to unbolt the PS pump. I would use Simple Green or degreaser because it is less likely to damage rubber parts.

You really only have to disconnect the VANOS at one end. Check for leaks after reinstall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I recall you have to get underneath to unbolt the PS pump. I would use Simple Green or degreaser because it is less likely to damage rubber parts.

You really only have to disconnect the VANOS at one end. Check for leaks after reinstall.
Yah that makes totally sense about the PS pump bolt its way down there.

Thanks for the info. Any idea on the torque specs for the 6 bolts for the OFHG? Some say 16 ft-lbs while some say as high as 22...
 

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I recall you have to get underneath to unbolt the PS pump. I would use Simple Green or degreaser because it is less likely to damage rubber parts.

You really only have to disconnect the VANOS at one end. Check for leaks after reinstall.
You dont have to at all. I did everything without jacking the car up. Look for a dit and it'll show you where the one bolt is, its pretty easy to get to once you know what you're looking for.
 

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:excited:
Ok herse my tip. I did this about 3 months ago...
Take the alternator, airbobox, and upper intake w/MAF completely out. Put a piece of plastic wrap with a rubberband around the still mounted lower intake boot to keep the nasties from getting in.. NOW, use whatever cleaner you want, and a high pressure garden hose to clean right above, and around the OFH, AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE. I had a TON of dirt and build up that wouldve fallen in the exposed area once it was unbolted...
I used HOT water in a spray bottle with a little bit of dish soap and let it soak before the hose... HELLA HOT.. liquid wrench, wd 40, or knocker loose will breakdown the oils as well, but im not too sure its ok around the rubber components.
In a nutshell, CLEAN around the thing first and dont get water on the alternator...:thumbup:
GL!
Oh and +1 for the above post... theres no need to jack up or lift for this...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the info!

Question; I keep reading the torque values for the bolts on the OFHG are 16lb-ft. Some say to do it to 22ft-lb while I keep seeing not to over torque them..

So what exactly is it? I don't want to put the stuff together only to realize its leaking again
 

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What makes no sense? Attached is a screen shot of TIS, 3AZ is the oil filter housing and the 6 bolts in question are M8 of varying lengths, 22nm is the BMW torque spec.
The confusion might be that some people are using the metric spec of 22nm, and some like me are converting it to ft lbs, which is 16ft lbs. You can use whatever you are comfortable with, most torque wrenches have both.
If you find somewhere that says 22 ft lbs, I would fall back to the published BMW technical reference, which is the TIS. 22 ft lbs will likely strip or at the very least over stress the threads in your block.
 

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