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bump. Anyone know what the PN is for the grommet in the center console where the shifter cable was?
Do you know the hole diameter? I found 07147140849, which is 35mm, in a DIY for E39 manual swap but nothing for E46. Seems like it should be the same but I can't confirm.

There's a 5MT car at the wrecking yard near me currently, it would be nice to go grab it but I'm not going to have time for a minute.
 

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Do you know the hole diameter? I found 07147140849, which is 35mm, in a DIY for E39 manual swap but nothing for E46. Seems like it should be the same but I can't confirm.

There's a 5MT car at the wrecking yard near me currently, it would be nice to go grab it but I'm not going to have time for a minute.
Just looked up my order list from when i did my manual swap, and it same part number and diameter

 
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'03 325iT Mystic Blau
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Just looked up my order list from when i did my manual swap, and it same part number and diameter

Thanks for the confirmation dude!
 

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Discussion Starter · #425 ·
Google Sheets - ManualConversionPartsList

I hadn't been following since the new fanatics site broke all or the majority of my linked photos from the document BUT the above google sheet is a copy of the one I made to track my expenses and parts requirements. Everyone should have view permissions. LMK if I need to tweak it a bit. (edit - included more info)
 
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Google Sheets - ManualConversionPartsList

I hadn't been following since the new fanatics site broke all or the majority of my linked photos from the document BUT the above google sheet is a copy of the one I made to track my expenses and parts requirements. Everyone should have view permissions. LMK if I need to tweak it a bit. (edit - included more info)
It's come up a few times - did you plug the hole that the auto shifter cable passed through? Do you remember with what?
I did some digging around and have bought and am hoping that it's right 7147140849, which is a 35mm flat plug.
 

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/// Limitless
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Discussion Starter · #427 ·
did you plug the hole that the auto shifter cable passed through? Do you remember with what?
I did some digging around and have bought and am hoping that it's right 7147140849, which is a 35mm flat plug.
Yes, I originally plugged it by thoroughly cleaning the hole on both sides. I then used two self vulcanizing tire patches and applied from both sides of the shifter cable hole. It formed an unrelenting bond to the other patch and and sealed it. I ran it that way for several years. Then one day a fellow fanatic contacted me and sent the proper one. I cannot find the part number in my email exchanges but I do recall that he said it was like 35 or 36 mm so it will probably work.
 
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  1. The wire loom routed alongside the left side of transmission using the existing wire/cable holders (previously empty).
  2. The wiring loom laying down on top of where it will be installed. Previously there was a rubber grommet that was blank in this location.
  3. I used the back of an F-connector (cable TV fitting) as a punch and popped a hole in the rubber grommet. The wire loom fit in the grommet perfectly. Route the wiring under brake fluid reservoir and to the front of the ECU/relay box.
  4. At this point I transitioned my wiring loom to a braided sleeve and entered the ECU box. I may revisit this and penetrate the bellows and seal it up with RTV. I'll see how this works when it rains out. I don't want any water in the ECU box.
  5. I have to give a big thank you and shout out to xmltok for this. Male push-on lugs fit perfectly into the relay base for the reverse light relay. This relay base, only used in automatics, connects to the same place that the reverse wiring would go in a manual. They share a common connector point x6021. Push your lugs into the relay base as shown. Note that this is a switch so it is not polarity sensitive. It doesn't matter which wire is in either position but make sure you use the connection points that are shown.
  6. Me, I have to test everything before I go any further so if you're like me, install the driver's seat and connect the wiring to the seat. Now you can reconnect the battery. Start the car and smile. Put it in reverse and make sure the reverse lights work as designed, and smile.
  7. Your car is now a manual. You should see the check engine light on, and where the P,D,N,R indicator was should be an icon of a gear with an exclamation mark inside it. This is normal until you get your car re-coded. In fact you could drive around like this indefinitely. BUT - you must be aware that until your car is re-coded, when you set the cruise control and depress the clutch pedal the car will not disengage the cruise control between shifts which could send the engine racing to redline.
  8. Now it's time to reassembly the remaining pieces and clean it all up.
  9. Replace the cover on the ECU/relay box
  10. Replace all the rubber seals that cover the sheet metal edges
  11. Replace the heater-fan cover
  12. Replace the micro-filter housing and micro-filter
Mirror Tilt DIY

MIRROR DIP WIRING
I meant to post this a while ago when I did the work but until now I hadn't gotten around to it. Since I have the pictures and m3buzz could use some help here it is. This should be the last part of this puzzle, which for a while has been the holy grail of the tranny swaps, the one last thing you couldn't get working. And a shout out to Rich-330ci for steering me in the right direction to figure this out.


You don't absolutely need to use it but if you have some cloth electrical tape it will help to wrap the wire to keep it from chaffing and it blends in with the rest of the factory loom a bit better. There are several pieces of exposed sharp steel in the back where you'll run the wire that could benefit from it.

The first thing you'll need to do is remove the gauge cluster. There are two screws in front of, and at the top of the cluster (underneath the dashboard) that you'll need to remove and the cluster just pulls out at that point. Once you have the cluster out just unclip the connector modules and set the cluster aside.


The next step is to remove the glove box for clear and free access to the fuse block. Once you've dropped the glove box then remove the trim on both sides of the radio so that you can remove the radio. This gives you access to pull the wire from the cluster to the fuse box.
  1. Cluster out, this is the wiring connector you'll beworking with, X11176.
  2. Remove the wiring module from connector to insert the newterminal
  3. Here's pin 7 of wiring module X11176.
  4. There may be other routes you could take but this waspretty easy I thought.
  5. Behind the radio and down to the glove compartment/fusebox area.
  6. This is what you'll see with the glove compartment out, looking at the fuse carrier.
  7. Dropping the fuse block.
  8. Removing the buss assembly and locating X428.
  9. Removing the buss assembly and locating X428. It's a little difficult to tell when you first look at the picture but at the top of the picture you're looking into the back of the buss module assembly that all the of buss modules clip into.
  10. New wire routed and X428 removed from the buss assembly. Next you'll crimp on a medium push-on connector (female) and plug it into X428. These are buss modules that connect a group of wires to a common buss (common to those wires). Now you just need to reassemble everything, code the car and reprogram the ECU!
Hi, im currently installing a full E46 M3 power train (engine, trans, rear axle, rear diff, cluster) in to my 2000 E46 328 wagon. Kassel performance did the ECU coding and cluster, so im worndering if i need to perform the mirror dip wiring. Do you have any idea?
Thks in advance
 

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'03 325iT Mystic Blau
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Hi, im currently installing a full E46 M3 power train (engine, trans, rear axle, rear diff, cluster) in to my 2000 E46 328 wagon. Kassel performance did the ECU coding and cluster, so im worndering if i need to perform the mirror dip wiring. Do you have any idea?
Thks in advance
You're using the wagon's harness?
Then yes, you'll need to add the wire going to the cluster to get PDC and mirror dip working.
 

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I couldn’t read all 22 pages, and I couldn’t figure how to search JUST this thread, but does anybody know whether TitaniumCranium ever changed his stock auto 3.38 differential to something more manual-friendly (2.93, 3.07, 3.15)?

i do see that he swapped out the lightweight flywheel and performance clutch and went back to stock.

Hey @TitaniumCranium - are you there? I will send him a PM if nobody knows the answer…Thanks

great thread btw…
 

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Are you just inquiring if he did or are you asking for experiences?

In my opinion the 3.38 was too short. First gear was worthless and all highway passing was done in 4th. I moved to a 3.15 and am generally happy with my decision.
 

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Pulling the exhaust is really the overlapping labor. If you have everything else, I would do that first and come back for the diff. When you do the diff, do the bushings, so make a diff swap your own day. I believe a 3.38 with a 6spd is about the same as a 5spd with a 2.93, roughly (for the top gear)
 
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