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Just did the swap a month ago with the help of this DIY, thank you for that. I have some additional info that I'm not sure was stated before. BWD has a connector that works perfectly on the reverse light switch. It fits in snug to form a tight, hopefully water proof seal and has a metal clip to lock it in place to the switch. The BWD part number is 28419A. You can get it at most auto parts stores for ~$10. Here are a few pics of it.
 

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Great DIY man!!!!!
i had a mt swapped from sw, by previous owner and he didn't finish electrical part. did only mechanical and ecu flash. anf master cylinder is nor the sensor.
Your pictures really helped me. when was making this procedures did mine photos and i understood how really hard it is to shoot everything
Great thank!!
From Russia with love ))))))
 

· /// Limitless
2002 330Ci
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Discussion Starter · #403 ·
Glad it helped! :thumbsup:
 

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This was a great and useful thread, thank you OP.
One element I didn't see discussed was the pedal. My AT pedal makes the car hyper-sensitive and twitchty compared to my 5sp e46 that was factory manual. Plus it has the "turn it up to 11" factor with the kick down sensor at the top of the travel.

Jumping out of one car to the other is like night and day. Do others swap the manual accelerator assembly or get used to the weird travel in the auto one?


OP are you still Sequim/Seattle local?
If someone is reading this thread and about to head out to the junk yard to pull a 5 or 6 speed, grab the accelerator pedal while you're pulling the pedal assembly. And take the reverse light harness as far up the wire as you can cut it. The one I got was long enough to reach the relay switch with no extension.
 

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This was a great and useful thread, thank you OP.
One element I didn't see discussed was the pedal. My AT pedal makes the car hyper-sensitive and twitchty compared to my 5sp e46 that was factory manual. Plus it has the "turn it up to 11" factor with the kick down sensor at the top of the travel.

Jumping out of one car to the other is like night and day. Do others swap the manual accelerator assembly or get used to the weird travel in the auto one?


OP are you still Sequim/Seattle local?
If someone is reading this thread and about to head out to the junk yard to pull a 5 or 6 speed, grab the accelerator pedal while you're pulling the pedal assembly. And take the reverse light harness as far up the wire as you can cut it. The one I got was long enough to reach the relay switch with no extension.
 

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Got the swap completed about a week ago and so far, so good. Maybe a dumb question: with the AT, you have a sport mode that changes shifting behavior but (as far as I can tell) also throttle responsiveness. Is there a MT version of this "sport mode" that would make the throttle response a little more aggressive? Is it just automatically in "sport mode" all the time once you code out the AT stuff?
 

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325Ci M54B30 6 Speed
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The transmission sport mode doesn't have an affect on throttle response. As for the post above about the overly responsive pedal, is that really a thing? I went from a ZF auto to a 5 speed and didn't notice an overly sensitive throttle but when I did a B30 swap and a 6 speed I noticed rev matching is like super hard to do now because the throttle is so sensitive.


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· /// Limitless
2002 330Ci
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Discussion Starter · #408 ·
This was a great and useful thread, thank you OP.
One element I didn't see discussed was the pedal. My AT pedal makes the car hyper-sensitive and twitchty compared to my 5sp e46 that was factory manual. Plus it has the "turn it up to 11" factor with the kick down sensor at the top of the travel.

Jumping out of one car to the other is like night and day. Do others swap the manual accelerator assembly or get used to the weird travel in the auto one?


OP are you still Sequim/Seattle local?
If someone is reading this thread and about to head out to the junk yard to pull a 5 or 6 speed, grab the accelerator pedal while you're pulling the pedal assembly. And take the reverse light harness as far up the wire as you can cut it. The one I got was long enough to reach the relay switch with no extension.
Wow - I didn't see this till just now. Yes, local to this area for many years. Spend some time in Seattle and some time in Sequim each week.
 

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Why oh why didn't I stumble across this thread when I did my conversion.

I have a 2003 330d M57N which had the GM slushbox. I was fortunate to find the parts needed from a wrecked car. The m57n is very very fussy. Parts had to be from a M57n. I have the 6 speed zf box with the mad torque rating and the 2.47 ratio diff. The gear linkage is also specific to M57n. The only thing which can be used from any other manual is the pedal box. Also the pedal boxes on diesels didn't have the clutch switches. My car doesn't have clutch switches to date and I did the conversion in 2015.

I had a shop do all the work for me. The only thing which was a struggle was the clutch fluid line. On a right hand drive car the clutch fluid line runs from the pedal through the dash then out the firewall from the left hand side. The shop who did the work for me ran the line without removing the dash. Others recommend removing the dash to make the work easy.

The car was put on a trailer and taken to another guy to get it started. Prior to that the egs was removed. I don't have any idea what wiring was done to get the car started. All I could see is wiring to the reverse light relay which looks crap. The cluster lights were turned off also, hopefully by coding and not by removing the bulb in the cluster lol.

The car was then starting and driving with no christmas lights however it stayed in an idle map. The car had no boost and would not rev past 4k rpm. Acceleration was terrible. I also found out that the auto and manual had a different engine map on the m57n. The motor was capable of pushing 410nm but the slush box was rated for 390nm. WTF was BMW thinking when they used this slushbox. I took the car to a buddy of mine who does coding and module repairs on BMW only. He had great difficulty loading the manual engine map but he eventually succeeded. The car pulls like a train. If I remember properly he also did some coding.

I still have a few gremlins though. The PDC doesnt work, the door locks dont lock themselves when driving (that would be a great help if it work, The crime in South Africa is out of control) and the cruise control doesn't work.

I have lived with the car like this. Lately I am longing for the cruise control mostly to keep me from speeding and get better fuel economy in these tough times.

Does any one know if its possible to code the cruise control without the EGS installed? I don't care about the clutch switch. I can manage driving the car without it.
 

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2002 330Ci
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Discussion Starter · #411 ·
I have lived with the car like this. Lately I am longing for the cruise control mostly to keep me from speeding and get better fuel economy in these tough times.

Does any one know if its possible to code the cruise control without the EGS installed? I don't care about the clutch switch. I can manage driving the car without it.
Yes you can get cruise control without the EGS installed. That's how I did it.

You need to have the clutch switch installed to do it. It stops the engine from over-reving when you press the clutch in as you hit the brakes.
 

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Just to be clear, to get cruise control working, if I follow this guide, especially the wiring part, I can keep cruise control. It seems this is already spelled out in the DIY. I am tackling this this December and then driving 700 miles, so cruise control is crucial....
 

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2002 330Ci
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Discussion Starter · #414 ·
Just to be clear, to get cruise control working, if I follow this guide, especially the wiring part, I can keep cruise control. It seems this is already spelled out in the DIY. I am tackling this this December and then driving 700 miles, so cruise control is crucial....
Yep, just follow the DIY and it'll work. If you have problems or Q's LMK. Hit the thread and if I fail to respond PM me.
 

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EDIT:
Instead of hack this the way I did the first time through, just use the correct wiring connector in the first place.

Genuity first figured this out. I knew I'd seen the configuration before but couldn't pinpoint it. It was used extensively on GM wiring harnesses for the fuel injectors.

Search this on the web and you should be able to come up with it, "GM Delphi / Packard - Bosch EV1 Type Injector Connector".
Those are Bosch/AMP Junior Power Timer connectors. You can find them all over the place, including on all sorts of 80s Euro cars, washing machines and other appliances, and here:

https://www.corsa-technic.com/category.php?category_id=146
http://www.cycleterminal.com/junior-power-timer.html

The part numbers I came up with are:

106462-1 Male Housing
828904-1 Wire Seal
963040-3 Female Housing
1-962915-1 / 1-963748-1 Male Contact
929939-3 / 929940-3 Female Contact
963209-1 Interface Seal (clear/natural)

The Getrag 5 speed puts the reverse switch on the driver's side kinda high. The ZF 6 speed puts it on the lower right side of the transmission necessitating a longer wire run if you're doing a 5 ***8680; 6 speed swap.
 

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  1. You will need to remove module x6005 in order to get module x6004 to slip in properly and lock in place.
  2. Now reinstall module X6005 and you’re done with the DME (ECU) wiring. Pull the excess wire down into the driver-side foot-well.
  3. On the left is the wire you just installed, coming down from the DME (ECU) and the wires attached to the clutch switch module, which snaps onto the clutch master cylinder.
  4. Here is the reference for the clutch switch module pin-out. In short you will be supplying the hall effect sensor on the clutch switch module with power from the brake switch wiring, you will connect a wire to the DME (ECU), and the EWS (engine immobilizer unit).
PIN 1:
- Wire Color:
BROWN/BLACK (brown wire, black stripe)
- Purpose: Provides Ground for the power side of the clutch module
- Connects too: Brake wiring, PIN 2 (same color)

PIN 2:
- Wire Color:
BLUE/BROWN (blue wire, brown stripe)
- Purpose: Tells the DME (ECU) when the clutch is depressed in order to start the car and kill cruise control. Killing Cruise control will only work when the DME is re-coded to a manual.
- Connects too: PIN 23 of the DME, Module number X6004

PIN 3:
- Wire Color:
VIOLET/YELLOW (violet wire, yellow stripe)
- Purpose: Provides + voltage for the power side of the clutch module
- Connects too: Brake wiring, PIN 1 (same color)

PIN 4:
- Wire Color:
BLUE/BLACK (blue wire, black stripe)
- Purpose: Signals the engine immobilizer unit that a proper key for this car is in the ignition and in the start position, this is a valid start request so start the engine. THIS MUST BE HOOKED UP TO START THE CAR
- Connects too: PIN 8 of EWS (engine immobilizer unit)

Using the reference information provided above, splice the brake light wiring. I prefer to use the correct slide on modules for this work but I couldn’t find them so I had to hardwire this all in place. I cut the wires and spliced then together, using heat shrink tubing to protect the wiring and act as a strain relief. Once positive and negative wires were tapped on the brake light I used cloth tape to re-wrap the wiring loom so that it retained the factory look. Then I spliced the DME (ECU) pin #23 wire to pin-2 of the clutch switch module. That leaves pin-4 of the clutch switch module to connect to pin #8 of the EWS (engine immobilizer unit) so that you can start the car.

THIS IS THE KEY TO GETTING YOUR CAR STARTED!
Hey Titianium Cranium ! Thanks so much for the write up.
I'm getting mine done soon, 5speed auto to 6speed manual ZF.

Do you still have the Excel spreadsheet of parts by chance?

Love your work mate! Awesome.
TIA
 

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'03 325iT Mystic Blau
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Hey Titianium Cranium ! Thanks so much for the write up.
I'm getting mine done soon, 5speed auto to 6speed manual ZF.

Do you still have the Excel spreadsheet of parts by chance?

Love your work mate! Awesome.
TIA
I'm not sure how often he's here anymore, but let me check when I get home and see if I still have mine.
 
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