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you are correct that one right in the middle of your picture i do have in my car - i checked. It is the violet/brown, empty slot, violet/black one. I was milling around the junkyard the other day looking for similar connectors and didn't find any (i guess i didn't look very well). Once i get my switch delivered, i will see if that connector will work, and if so, i will go to the junkyard and cut their wiring harness, as they don't care about wires. I will also keep everyone posted, so people in the future will know. Thanks Mikeetastic.
 

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So I bought a "low profile" transmission jack, and I have some basic geometry questions. The transmission measures ~15" from the bottom to the top of the bell housing. The jack measures ~9" from the ground to the mounting plate. A cursory measure of my jack stands tells me I might be able to get the car ~18" off the ground. You see where this is going. How have people been making this work? With 15" of transmission and no more than 18" of clearance, I'm not sure how to get the transmission on a jack, under the car and then up into position.

I've got most of the parts and tools now, I'm just taking things slow and staging things as much as possible to try and make sure things go smoothly.
 

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2002 330Ci
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Discussion Starter · #388 ·
You can pull the jack and transmission under the car and wriggle the tranny onto the jack once under.

The way I did it, three times now, is to slide the tranny under the car, position yourself right under where the tranny goes, pull it up onto your chest, using your knees steady it and just push it up into position. It only weighs about 80 lbs, plus you can feel it slip on to the pilot bearing and the splines. It only takes about a minute to get it in place, put a couple bolts in finger tight and proceed as normal.
 

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The way I did it, three times now, is to slide the tranny under the car, position yourself right under where the tranny goes, pull it up onto your chest, using your knees steady it and just push it up into position. It only weighs about 80 lbs, plus you can feel it slip on to the pilot bearing and the splines. It only takes about a minute to get it in place, put a couple bolts in finger tight and proceed as normal.
This was awesome. I like to think of this as the "Mad Max" way to do a tranny swap.
 

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could use some help regarding my pedal assembly. it has two older style clutch and cruise control switches i believe. it doesnt have a mounting spot on the slave for the 4 pin clutch module. not really sure what i need to do here...do i just simply not use the two switches and get a new slave and clutch switch module? any help is appreciated. i made a thread but thought maybe someone here would know what im talking about.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1117355

 

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could use some help regarding my pedal assembly. it has two older style clutch and cruise control switches i believe. it doesnt have a mounting spot on the slave for the 4 pin clutch module. not really sure what i need to do here...do i just simply not use the two switches and get a new slave and clutch switch module? any help is appreciated. i made a thread but thought maybe someone here would know what im talking about.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1117355

Hi, i jsut did this on my car. Take a look here:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1112050&page=2

If this doesn't answer your questions, let me know. Seems you have the two 3-wire switches, so you are doing better than i was.... I have the clutch switches correct now, but i still haven't re-coded the car yet. BTW - what month and year was your car built? Mine is 04/2000.
 

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Hi, i jsut did this on my car. Take a look here:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1112050&page=2

If this doesn't answer your questions, let me know. Seems you have the two 3-wire switches, so you are doing better than i was.... I have the clutch switches correct now, but i still haven't re-coded the car yet. BTW - what month and year was your car built? Mine is 04/2000.
i'll take a look at that. mine is 10/1999, when i go to realOEM it shows the 4 pin clutch switch module and says "to March '01", i was hoping i could just follow titaniumcranium's instructions and be good
 

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i'll take a look at that. mine is 10/1999, when i go to realOEM it shows the 4 pin clutch switch module and says "to March '01", i was hoping i could just follow titaniumcranium's instructions and be good
just did this on my 328i engine (used to be 2000 323i wagon).. same pedal set as yours. remove and throw that white 4pin connector as you'll be using the one in your car.

wiring below post #332, coding is post #322 by Terra.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=15622438#post15622438
 

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just did this on my 328i engine (used to be 2000 323i wagon).. same pedal set as yours. remove and throw that white 4pin connector as you'll be using the one in your car.

wiring below post #332, coding is post #322 by Terra.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=15622438#post15622438
cool thats what i need i guess...so much info in these massive threads it can be hard to sort through it all. for what its worth are you able to simply upgrade to the 4 pin clutch switch? that seems to be a little bit easier. and what exactly does that coding portion do? is that coding the DME to think its a manual?
 

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cool thats what i need i guess...so much info in these massive threads it can be hard to sort through it all. for what its worth are you able to simply upgrade to the 4 pin clutch switch? that seems to be a little bit easier. and what exactly does that coding portion do? is that coding the DME to think its a manual?
Look at my post #387 above, it addresses an error in RealOEM
 

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I spliced, soldered, and covered each wire splice with shrink tubing. Than i went to the junkyard and got some of the original BMW cloth wrap to cover and protect the wires. Since the cloth covering is not new, i held the ends shut with small black zip-ties from Home Depot. Once the plastic cover is back in place, you don't see any of it anyways, but make sure the wiring is spliced correctly or else you could have a problem later... I am finally going to do the research to find my SA number, since my car is an early 323i Touring (build date 04/2000) i don't have a VO. The SA (from when the car was an automatic) is used to get the new SA for manual (from what i understand). There is a person on this site that could give us the new SA number for the manual. My car has the weirdest electrical gremlins, i hope they go away when the car is finally re-coded. I have a BMW repair shop that can do the coding for me, but they need the SA numbers...
 

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Nice write up OP if I didn't say it already. My car is already a 5 speed so a 6 speed swap would be no wiring involved for me. Even though I don't need the transfer case, I will be updating to the 03/04 t-case. Also seeing that I am AWD there are 2 different front driveshaft lengths. One is 723mm (which I will have to buy so that i don't get held up in the swap process) for the 6 speed manual transmission and the other is 718mm (which I already have) for all automatics and all pre 2003 vehicles ( E46 before 3/2003 production date). Maybe the newer front transfer case flange is shorter? This is my guess since they all use the same length rear drive shaft. The manual transmission front differential is also a different part number between the 5 and 6 speed. Although I will be using the automatic front and rear differential because their gearing is 3.46:1 instead of the manuals 3.07:1. Flywheels are different too, as well as the shifter linkage.
 
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