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/// Limitless
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  1. You will need to remove module x6005 in order to get module x6004 to slip in properly and lock in place.
  2. Now reinstall module X6005 and you’re done with the DME (ECU) wiring. Pull the excess wire down into the driver-side foot-well.
  3. On the left is the wire you just installed, coming down from the DME (ECU) and the wires attached to the clutch switch module, which snaps onto the clutch master cylinder.
  4. Here is the reference for the clutch switch module pin-out. In short you will be supplying the hall effect sensor on the clutch switch module with power from the brake switch wiring, you will connect a wire to the DME (ECU), and the EWS (engine immobilizer unit).
PIN 1:
- Wire Color:
BROWN/BLACK (brown wire, black stripe)
- Purpose: Provides Ground for the power side of the clutch module
- Connects too: Brake wiring, PIN 2 (same color)

PIN 2:
- Wire Color:
BLUE/BROWN (blue wire, brown stripe)
- Purpose: Tells the DME (ECU) when the clutch is depressed in order to start the car and kill cruise control. Killing Cruise control will only work when the DME is re-coded to a manual.
- Connects too: PIN 23 of the DME, Module number X6004

PIN 3:
- Wire Color:
VIOLET/YELLOW (violet wire, yellow stripe)
- Purpose: Provides + voltage for the power side of the clutch module
- Connects too: Brake wiring, PIN 1 (same color)

PIN 4:
- Wire Color:
BLUE/BLACK (blue wire, black stripe)
- Purpose: Signals the engine immobilizer unit that a proper key for this car is in the ignition and in the start position, this is a valid start request so start the engine. THIS MUST BE HOOKED UP TO START THE CAR
- Connects too: PIN 8 of EWS (engine immobilizer unit)

Using the reference information provided above, splice the brake light wiring. I prefer to use the correct slide on modules for this work but I couldn’t find them so I had to hardwire this all in place. I cut the wires and spliced then together, using heat shrink tubing to protect the wiring and act as a strain relief. Once positive and negative wires were tapped on the brake light I used cloth tape to re-wrap the wiring loom so that it retained the factory look. Then I spliced the DME (ECU) pin #23 wire to pin-2 of the clutch switch module. That leaves pin-4 of the clutch switch module to connect to pin #8 of the EWS (engine immobilizer unit) so that you can start the car.

THIS IS THE KEY TO GETTING YOUR CAR STARTED!
 

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/// Limitless
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  1. Orientation – laying on your back (remember – no driver’s seat) looking up under the dash in the foot-well area with the top of your head touching the clutch pedal. In the highlighted area you’ll see a white plastic box. This is the EWS module. You will need to pull the wiring connector from the EWS module and locate pin-8.
  2. This diagram will help you locate the EWS, which sits just in front of the lighting control module, LCM.
  3. This is the back of the connector removed from the EWS module. The location of pin-8 is in the upper-right-hand corner (which is missing).
  4. Crimp a female connector end on Pin-4 from the clutch switch module and install into pin-8 of the EWS connector. Pull back on the wire gently to make sure the connector is locked in place.
  5. Pin-8 installed in the connector housing, ready to go back into the EWS module. Insert the connector housing back into the EWS module and dress the wires so that they are neat.
  6. Now you can seal this area back up. The panel that you had to remove in order to gain access to the pedal assembly must go back on but now there is an extra pedal so you’ll have to make room for it. If you look on the back side of this large plastic part you’ll notice the faint outline of where the clutch pedal assembly would go. Cut this out with whatever tools are available to you. I used a Dremel cutoff blade for this and it looked factory when I was done.
 

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/// Limitless
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Reverse Light Wiring
  1. You have one last thing to do electrically before you're done; reverse light wiring. I tried many junk yards online but I could not source the connector that BMW uses for this switch so I built my own. I used a two-pin Molex connector shell; I crimped small female push-on lugs onto 16 gauge wire and fed the wires into the Molex shell. I then grooved the Molex shell using a Dremel with a cutoff blade so that this assembly would slide into the reverse switch receptacle. It may look a little rough but it worked perfectly.
  2. You can get a little creative in building your wire loom here. I started with 10 feet of wire so that I didn't run short. Remembering that I replaced my O2 sensors, I scavenged the silicone wire sheath from both O2 sensors and slid it over my reverse wiring loom. Where one piece joined the other I slide one over the top of the other and put a dab of silicone RTV sealant in there to make sure it sealed. I don't want water getting into my wiring.
  3. Making sure the lugs line up properly, push the connector onto the reverse light switch.
  4. You're going to need to seal the connector assembly from water. I used a thick rubberized splicing tape for this - Scotch 3M #2242, linerless rubber splicing tape.
  5. Reverse light switch and silicone wiring loom encapsulated in rubber splicing tape. The switch is on the right side of the transmission so route the wiring up and over the transmission to the left side.
  6. Instead of hack this the way I did the first time through, just use the correct wiring connector in the first place.
  7. Genuity first figured this out. I knew I'd seen the configuration before but couldn't pinpoint it. It was used extensively on GM wiring harnesses for the fuel injectors.
  8. Search this on the web and you should be able to come up with it, "GM Delphi / Packard - Bosch EV1 Type Injector Connector".
 

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/// Limitless
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  1. The wire loom routed alongside the left side of transmission using the existing wire/cable holders (previously empty).
  2. The wiring loom laying down on top of where it will be installed. Previously there was a rubber grommet that was blank in this location.
  3. I used the back of an F-connector (cable TV fitting) as a punch and popped a hole in the rubber grommet. The wire loom fit in the grommet perfectly. Route the wiring under brake fluid reservoir and to the front of the ECU/relay box.
  4. At this point I transitioned my wiring loom to a braided sleeve and entered the ECU box. I may revisit this and penetrate the bellows and seal it up with RTV. I'll see how this works when it rains out. I don't want any water in the ECU box.
  5. I have to give a big thank you and shout out to xmltok for this. Male push-on lugs fit perfectly into the relay base for the reverse light relay. This relay base, only used in automatics, connects to the same place that the reverse wiring would go in a manual. They share a common connector point x6021. Push your lugs into the relay base as shown. Note that this is a switch so it is not polarity sensitive. It doesn't matter which wire is in either position but make sure you use the connection points that are shown.
  6. Me, I have to test everything before I go any further so if you're like me, install the driver's seat and connect the wiring to the seat. Now you can reconnect the battery. Start the car and smile. Put it in reverse and make sure the reverse lights work as designed, and smile.
  7. Your car is now a manual. You should see the check engine light on, and where the P,D,N,R indicator was should be an icon of a gear with an exclamation mark inside it. This is normal until you get your car re-coded. In fact you could drive around like this indefinitely. BUT - you must be aware that until your car is re-coded, when you set the cruise control and depress the clutch pedal the car will not disengage the cruise control between shifts which could send the engine racing to redline.
  8. Now it's time to reassembly the remaining pieces and clean it all up.
  9. Replace the cover on the ECU/relay box
  10. Replace all the rubber seals that cover the sheet metal edges
  11. Replace the heater-fan cover
  12. Replace the micro-filter housing and micro-filter
Mirror Tilt DIY

MIRROR DIP WIRING
I meant to post this a while ago when I did the work but until now I hadn't gotten around to it. Since I have the pictures and m3buzz could use some help here it is. This should be the last part of this puzzle, which for a while has been the holy grail of the tranny swaps, the one last thing you couldn't get working. And a shout out to Rich-330ci for steering me in the right direction to figure this out.


You don't absolutely need to use it but if you have some cloth electrical tape it will help to wrap the wire to keep it from chaffing and it blends in with the rest of the factory loom a bit better. There are several pieces of exposed sharp steel in the back where you'll run the wire that could benefit from it.

The first thing you'll need to do is remove the gauge cluster. There are two screws in front of, and at the top of the cluster (underneath the dashboard) that you'll need to remove and the cluster just pulls out at that point. Once you have the cluster out just unclip the connector modules and set the cluster aside.

The next step is to remove the glove box for clear and free access to the fuse block. Once you've dropped the glove box then remove the trim on both sides of the radio so that you can remove the radio. This gives you access to pull the wire from the cluster to the fuse box.
  1. Cluster out, this is the wiring connector you'll beworking with, X11176.
  2. Remove the wiring module from connector to insert the newterminal
  3. Here's pin 7 of wiring module X11176.
  4. There may be other routes you could take but this waspretty easy I thought.
  5. Behind the radio and down to the glove compartment/fusebox area.
  6. This is what you'll see with the glove compartment out, looking at the fuse carrier.
  7. Dropping the fuse block.
  8. Removing the buss assembly and locating X428.
  9. Removing the buss assembly and locating X428. It's a little difficult to tell when you first look at the picture but at the top of the picture you're looking into the back of the buss module assembly that all the of buss modules clip into.
  10. New wire routed and X428 removed from the buss assembly. Next you'll crimp on a medium push-on connector (female) and plug it into X428. These are buss modules that connect a group of wires to a common buss (common to those wires). Now you just need to reassemble everything, code the car and reprogram the ECU!
 

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/// Limitless
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OP, before you pulled the auto harness from the tranny, did you put it in neutral and leave it in neutral?
No I didn't. I'm not sure it that would make any difference. I've read nearly every wiring diagram and don't see where that would help. That said, this is a 5hp19 conversion and it is different than a GM conversion. About the only way you could "short cut" the wiring would be to pull the mechanical/electrical steptronic shifting mechanism from the side of the tranny and move, or leave it in neutral. It's far easier just to wire it correctly.
 

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Just Nuts
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Questions:
  1. How high was the car measured from ground to jacking pad?
  2. Other cars have a spring that withdraws the throw out bearing from the clutch 'finger' spring when the clutch pedal is released. The 3 series doesn't have that mechanism. Is it obvious what causes the BMW TOB to disengage from the clutch once the pedal is released?
 

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/// Limitless
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2,907 Posts
How high was the car measured from ground to jacking pad?
That would be 45cm or 17.5 inches.

Other cars have a spring that withdraws the throw out bearing from the clutch 'finger' spring when the clutch pedal is released. The 3 series doesn't have that mechanism. Is it obvious what causes the BMW TOB to disengage from the clutch once the pedal is released?
There is a weird little spring behind the fork that pulls it back, but you are right, there isn't anything that pulls the TOB back. I think it just gets pushed barely out of the way by the "fingers" of the pressure plate once you release the clutch. I don't honestly know though. I thought about it but the thought of getting done in a timely manner overtook my curiosity.
 

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Just Nuts
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I thought about it but the thought of getting done in a timely manner overtook my curiosity.:D
Yes, I understand. But one day you might be curious about it too. As the TOB becomes well used, it might begin to stick to the 'hollow shaft' it is riding on. As there's nothing to withdraw the TOB, it will stay loosely in contact with the clutch. When this happens the finger spring will strike TOB's front plate causing a chirp or squeal that will sound terrible but not really too terrible mechanically. I am afflicted with this annoyance and hence asking. Your trasnmission will be good for many miles before it will run into things like this.
 

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I have had my 5 speed, now have an automatic and am satisfied. I will only take a 6 speed when I purchase an M3 but then I might want to try the SMG. I found this to be most informative and read every single step and enjoyed the read. I can see this came from the heart of a TRUE FANATIC! WELL DONE AND A GREAT WRITE UP TITANIUM CRANIUM!!
 

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/// Limitless
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Thanks for the props guys :thanks: - you too Neil :pimpin:
 

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Thank you very much for putting this thread together TitaniumCranium, I have been in bimmerforums for a while and found this after hours of searching for info on this swap. I am going to be doing this in my e39 in a few months and will need all the help I can get
 

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/// Limitless
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Thank you very much for putting this thread together TitaniumCranium, I have been in bimmerforums for a while and found this after hours of searching for info on this swap. I am going to be doing this in my e39 in a few months and will need all the help I can get
Give me a shout when you get to the point you need assistance. I'll help you however I can. :thumbsup:

In fact, I'll help anyone attempting this in any way I can. It really is one very intense puzzle! I'm an IT guy - I love puzzles!!!
 
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