TitaniumCranium, I remember you were having an issue where the DME was still looking for the EGS even though the DME software is supposed to be the same for autos and manuals... did you ever figure out what was going on there?
Official Automatic to 6-speed Swap
First off, I would like thank Neil1138, ivegotissues666, and xmltok. Without their DIY’s and information from posts I probably wouldn’t have decided to do this. My intention with this DIY thread is not to dwell on what has already been covered but to share my experience, reinforce things I found necessary, point out differences in my conversion, and above all explain the wiring piece well.
Second, if you are fairly skilled mechanically, can assemble Legos, and have a desire to solve complex puzzles, you will probably do well at this. While you don’t have to be an OCD perfectionist, it might help.
Before you get started there are several things you must do, no matter whether want to or not. If you plan on doing this yourself you must research realOEM.com and find out mechanically where all these pieces are and why you need them. As model years progressed, some parts on the cars also changed slightly so the parts required may be slightly different from one build to another. Know your own vehicle well prior to starting.
Overall once I got started this took me 4 days. I did all the work myself, with a few emails with knowledgeable members.
All the photos for this are in my media library here: TitaniumCranium
Second, if you are fairly skilled mechanically, can assemble Legos, and have a desire to solve complex puzzles, you will probably do well at this. While you don’t have to be an OCD perfectionist, it might help.
Before you get started there are several things you must do, no matter whether want to or not. If you plan on doing this yourself you must research realOEM.com and find out mechanically where all these pieces are and why you need them. As model years progressed, some parts on the cars also changed slightly so the parts required may be slightly different from one build to another. Know your own vehicle well prior to starting.
Overall once I got started this took me 4 days. I did all the work myself, with a few emails with knowledgeable members.
All the photos for this are in my media library here: TitaniumCranium
1 - 20 of 447 Posts
That's what I figured, but at least according to the ETK (bmwfans.info at least, I didn't actually check my local copy), there isn't an auto-specific programmed number for the non-M E46s... Is the ETK mistaken?Should just need to change the Basic and programed numbers. That is what I do with all the conversions I program. The re-encode the whole car
Theoretically changing the VO and recoding the modules should take care of everything except the DME.
Have you ever attempted to reflash the DME? The VO isn't used to determine the appropriate DME software, so changing the VO isn't enough for the DME. You have to manually input the number that points to the right software version. If you let DIS, SSS, or WinKFP automatically determine the proper DME version, it'll just flash the latest available automatic tune. If I had to make an educated guess, I would say the appropriate DME version is 7571613. If you attempt to reflash the DME, note down the version thats currently on there before flashing it
Have you ever attempted to reflash the DME? The VO isn't used to determine the appropriate DME software, so changing the VO isn't enough for the DME. You have to manually input the number that points to the right software version. If you let DIS, SSS, or WinKFP automatically determine the proper DME version, it'll just flash the latest available automatic tune. If I had to make an educated guess, I would say the appropriate DME version is 7571613. If you attempt to reflash the DME, note down the version thats currently on there before flashing it
Assuming you're talking about 5MT to a 6MT, the computer doesn't care. The only electronic component in a manual transmission is the reverse switch. To go from a 5-speed to a 6-speed, you'd need a new driveshaft, clutch, and flywheel. You shouldn't have to touch the computer at all.First off, INCREDIBLE WRITE-UP!!!
My question: is it worth it to switch from a 5-spd to a 6-spd? My 5-spd cruises at around 3K RPM, and that's a bit much for me. I remember my Mustangs in college cruised at around 1800 RPM, and that was great. That was also a long time ago, and I would never own another Mustang again.
What type of costs (total) am I looking at for this swap? I just spoke with an independent shop & they said that there might be problem as to the computer not accepting the new 6-spd?
So changing the VO was the issue this whole time? NCS Expert really should've worked for that then... I've modified VOs with it more times than I can remember.Well it's about time.
There is NO check engine light!
I finally set out to figure out what the deal was with my software. I tried quite a few times but was never sure that everything was as it should be prior to reprogramming the software on the DME.
What was going on is that I'd recode the AKMB (KOMBI in DIS). I'd get notification from DIS that the VO (vehicle order) had changed but when I went to recode the other modules necessary to proceed, they all failed to recode and terminated the process prematurely. I was able to change the AKMB and ALSZ with NCS Expert but still the DSC module refused to recode and I couldn't disconnect my EGS module without having problems with my DSC/brake module.
So here is what FINALLY worked. I read a coding manual for the GT1 and they mentioned that if recoding the modules will not work and you are certain that the car is without fault you can use Progman to encode the ENTIRE vehicle and it will reset all the modules to the VO regardless of whether the VO has actually changed. This was a relief because that is exactly the error message I kept getting, "Process terminated. The VO for this vehicle has not changed". Based on the error I was getting this seemed like a logical course of action.
I'd also like to point out something that may have some bearing on what I experienced when recoding the modules. This vehicle was manufactured post 2001/09, hence the VO or vehicle order. Pre 2001/09 vehicles use an SA code, and none of the SA code vehicles that I read about ran into the recoding issue I ran into.
First, I removed the Shark softare then I disconnected the battery and waited 5 minutes for the bus to reset, per the GT1 manual. Then disconnected the EGS module connectors (three). I used DIS (within Progman - Select 5 series, then select E34, this will open a virtual copy of DIS running within Progman. Then it was off to recode the AKMB (KOMBI) and remove option 205 (automatic transmission). I exited DIS and went back into Progman, chose the Vihicle SELECTION #4 "Vehicle" and then chose Complete encode. This was a long process but when everything finished, all modules (I really mean all installed modules) including the ALSZ and DSC had been recoded successfully. The first time since I started down this road over a year ago.
Once this completed I exited, came back in to Progman, read the software and this time proceeded to program the DME. I chose update and let Progman determine what was necessary. It updated the DME successfully after about 25 minutes. Then I recalibrated the EWS module and that completed successfully (the second time through). Then as the last step I installed the Shark software again.
The moment of truth came when I turned the key. The car started and no SES light. I turned it off and on again. Still no SES light - YES. DSC/brake light is out, cruise control works AND when you are cruising and depress the clutch it disengages the cruise control automatically. So everything works as it is supposed to. The only thing that doesn't work is the reverse mirror dip, even though it's wired into the same connection point that the automatic transmission was wired to but I can live with that.
Success!
Does your reverse light work? Looking at the wiring diagrams, it seems like the wiring for the reverse signal is the same (see manual vs auto). The only difference seems to be where the power comes from (reverse switch on manuals, and reverse relay on autos).BTW - if someone knows how to get beyond the mirror diip feature not working I want to know. I'll give you a platform to state your case. just let me know. I'm more concerned about the solution that fully works, than who did it.
Is it possible that you simply disabled the feature during all the recoding?
Ah. Well you couldn't write the VO to the dsc module because it doesn't store the VO. What you're supposed to do is recode all the relevant modules with rhe sg_codieren function after changing the VO in the AKMB and ALSZ modules. Or you could hit the "process car" button which recodes every module according to what your VO says your car has. What you did with progman is basically the same thing - it worked because the AKMB and ALSZ had the proper VO stored.Using NCS Expert I did successfully change the VO in both the AKMB and ALSZ modules. I went back into NCS Expert and read them out and they changed just as you stated. I could not figure out how to code a new VO into the DSC/Brake module through NCS Expert. Therefore I only used DIS to code (recode) the new VO into the DSC/Brake module, which repeatedly failed, stating the "vehicle order for this vehicle had not changed".
330i ZHP's car might work since it's newer than 03/2003. For 03.5 and newer non-M cars, BMW changed the mirror modules. The functions are now controlled through the GM5 instead of separate mirror modules. (Well technically there are mirror modules still, but the GM5 controls them through the LIN bus)Ohhh, now you tell me! :lmao::clap:
The German thing throws me off a little. Progman was pretty easy to understand though.
I just realized you posted this earlier.
The reverse tilt works? THIS is the first time I've heard that reverse tilt was functional. Do you know or can you find out what the "secret sauce" is to getting this function to work? I miss mine.
Have you tried recoding the EWS module with NCS expert?
Set the job type to sg_codieren, and recode any module that might care about the transmission type.
Probably depends on which party has the more expensive lawyer.Is this actually true? Someone can be held liable for posting words on the internet?
If unplugging the battery doesn't do the trick, then you probably need some diagnostics software to reset adaptations.
Sounds like the DME didn't get reprogrammed "properly" to me. Was the EGS disconnected at the time of programming?
Clearing adaptions seems to be the key, not reprogramming. DIS and Progman clear adaptions by default after a DME reflash; WinKFP does not. The CAN-Bus error exists because the DME is "adapted" into expecting an auto transmission.Nervous - as I suggested in your thread there may be a related issue for you and Rich-330i as you're both running Euro software. There may be some behavior limited or specific to that DME code.
From my experience and the error information that I pulled using INPA with regards to whether you have to reprogram the DME at all? (A question raised in your thread) I would say that yes, it's necessary to reprogram the DME. If you don't, the CAN bus will show an error indicating that that DME was attempting to contact the EGS module.
:thanks: thank you!
ALSZ isn't really relevant beyond the fact that the ALSZ is one of the modules that stores the Vehicle Order. The actual coding of the ALSZ does not change whether or not an automatic is present. DIS is a little weird in that if a module has errors present after recoding, it will say the recoding failed (even if changes were actually made). In your case, I suspect the errors were due to your HIDs (even if you coded the LSZ for HIDs, it will immediately throw an error for the lack of autoleveling).
Anyway, I really don't like DIS because it needlessly complicates a lot of items, VO changes being one of them. With NCS Expert, it's as simple as highlighting option code 205, hitting delete, and writing the new VO to the ALSZ and AKMB. Then after that you can hit "Process Car" and every module in the car will be recoded. After that deleting any left over error codes in (DSC, AKMB, and DME), and then clear the adaptions on the DME. It *should* start without any CAN errors.
VO change itself isn't strictly necessary either if you manually change all the right parameters in every module. The VO is just a string used by scanning tools, like DIS, to determine what equipment the car has. The car's modules themselves have no idea what that string means.
Anyway, I really don't like DIS because it needlessly complicates a lot of items, VO changes being one of them. With NCS Expert, it's as simple as highlighting option code 205, hitting delete, and writing the new VO to the ALSZ and AKMB. Then after that you can hit "Process Car" and every module in the car will be recoded. After that deleting any left over error codes in (DSC, AKMB, and DME), and then clear the adaptions on the DME. It *should* start without any CAN errors.
VO change itself isn't strictly necessary either if you manually change all the right parameters in every module. The VO is just a string used by scanning tools, like DIS, to determine what equipment the car has. The car's modules themselves have no idea what that string means.
That's not exactly the case. When you "recode" a car, no software gets updated. They simply get reconfigured to the settings that are "default" for the equipment your car has. So if you remove option code 205 and recode all the modules, any parameter that said "automatic" will now say manual. The actual software doesn't change. There are modules that don't care about manual vs auto, so you can get away with recoding only a few.It's more than just the EWS. He did a swap before I did mine. If you want it all to work like factory there's process to it. I outlined what I did in post 134 but to be fair there was a problem with one of my modules and I was forced to do a full recode of the car, which really isn't a bad thing to do anyway because if you're using a new version of progman to do the work you'll get all the latest code anyway. Then reprogram the DME with the latest code and align the EWS. All the lights go out and all the functions (besides mirror dip) work like factory.
Assuming you have the clutch sensor wired appropriately (in a US car), you'd need to recode the cluster and DSC module; possibly some others with various optional components (like PDC). For US cars, even a manual's EWS module is configured as "auto" -- all that auto/manual switch does is enable the clutch/neutral interlock (which functions as the park/neutral interlock on auto cars)
In BMW-lingo, to update the software would be to "reprogram" a module. In the E46's case, the only modules that can be updated in the field are the DME and EGS. For an auto to manual swap (on a non-M), the DME doesn't actually have to be reprogrammed (but if it's at an old version, it's best to just update it). The key is clearing the adaptions.
If I had to guess, the number*10 is the max torque rating in Nm. So 370NmSorry if it was not clear so thanks anyway, but already had that info & it does NOT give the MAXIMUM torque ratings just states torque multiplication in different gears:
2
Most of the wires use MQS contacts. You can buy them from BMW, but it's probably more cost effective to buy a hundred from mouser or something. I've used 20 gauge wire in all of my DME wiring projects.
Something like this should work: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKtEBBgXymf%2bKrRy7uGRnSds=
BMW 61138369696 would also work, but it's much cheaper to not use BMW as a middle man
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Also if you want the setup to be OE clean, I would strongly consider just buying the manual transmission harness. It's under $200
Looks like this
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Something like this should work: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKtEBBgXymf%2bKrRy7uGRnSds=
BMW 61138369696 would also work, but it's much cheaper to not use BMW as a middle man
Also if you want the setup to be OE clean, I would strongly consider just buying the manual transmission harness. It's under $200
Looks like this
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You'll probably still have to run a wire from the foot well into the dme box for the clutch, that goes to a connector that's unrelated to what the transmission harness replaces. Reverse signal signal will be properly wired up, but if you want PDC to work, you still have to run a wire from X428 to the clusteralso with this harness does it plug into the clutch module switch meaning I don't have to run new wire from foot well to ecu plug?
If you don't use the manual transmission harness, these are the connectors and contacts you'd need for the reverse light switch:
12527507526 -- Connector
12527506431 -- Right angle cover (no picture)
12521427612 (x2) -- Contact
12521748973 (x2) -- Sealing Grommet
The x428 stuff is described in this post: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=14498697&postcount=125
You might be able to reuse the existing reverse wires, but you'll probably have to extend them (I think the auto wires just come from the auto ECU, so they have to become a lot longer to reach the transmission)
You might be able to reuse the existing reverse wires, but you'll probably have to extend them (I think the auto wires just come from the auto ECU, so they have to become a lot longer to reach the transmission)
What car did your gearbox come from? And what car is the driveshaft from?
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