[swooshdave]

I'm on my quest to track down a occasional idle issue. Yes, codes are being thrown around like candy at a parade.

I swapped out the valve cover gasket just in case it was hard and leaking. I'm changing out the spark plugs next. I'm waiting for a new o-ring for the DISA. CCV was replaced by PO. Fuel pump too.

I have OBDLink iOS app and OMBLink MX+. I know it will only give me some basics. But using the dashboard on the app I can see some of the realtime readings.

I noticed that cold the O2 1 was really low voltage. As it warmed up the voltage went up a little. But always fluctuating.

1. Should I expect O2 1 and 2 to be the same?
2. Is there a target voltage?

I'm still going to check for more vacuum leaks.

 

[swooshdave]

Hence the request for the 3 standard logs. They provide the full data set in a form that we know. Otherwise, we're into the "death by a 1,000 questions" game.

@swooshdave

• The pre-cat voltages should be cycling between 0.1V to 0.8V under normal driving conditions. It will go to 0.9V under acceleration.
• The post cat voltages should be above 0.5V with a hot engine under steady driving conditions. If they are below 0.5V then you likely have problems.

This isn't your problem but I'm letting you know so you don't think I'm ignoring you. I'm having some issue with the Apple App Store and can't purchase things. As soon as I get that sorted out I'll get the logs.

 

[swooshdave]

Ok, getting closer.

First I set up a custom dashboard. This is with car idling.

Then I set up what I thought was the graphing and logging.

I hit play and ran it for a while. Then hit stop.

When I went to look at the CSV file it just had time, lat, long and speed.

I must have missed a setting somewhere.
<edit> I see what I missed. From a UX standpoint you would assume that you would log what you set up on the graph. Silly me it was in a totally different settings area.

 

[swooshdave]

Ok, at this point I'm going in the right direction but not in the prescribed path. I have some more parts showing up this week and once I get all of those on I will come back to the logging. But at least know you kind folks have pointed me to what I need to do. Thank you. Especially @NZ00Z3

 

[swooshdave]

In an effort to eliminate typical service variables I replaced the spark plugs and air filter.

I also put an o-ring on the DISA. My theory is that the air box opening gets bigger as the intake ages (heat cycles) and the co-molded gasket is no longer effective.

I hope to do the tests and get the logs tomorrow although from just monitoring I am assuming there’s a problem.

My guess is that 27.3% is the max range and the trim is actually higher. I’m also wondering if Bank 1 is negative to compensate for the additional fuel in Bank 2.

The full logs should reveal more.

Putting on my CSI hat I can see that Bank 1 (forward) O2 sensor looks newer than the back one. Not sure what that means yet.

 

[swooshdave]

Cold_Idle
Highway_Cruise
Hot_Idle

Let me know if you can view the files and have the right permissions. Thanks!

@NZ00Z3

Notes: The cruise was as flat and steady as I can get near me. It's Oregon not Nebraska. There is some up and down.

The Hot Idle was pretty smooth. Other times the idle can be rough. Intermittent issues, my fav.

 

[swooshdave]

Just tried to download the files. I have an apple account. Couldn't get them.

A free DropBox account or Google drive have both worked well in the past.

Thanks. I’ll recheck the permissions.

 

[swooshdave]

E46 Google Drive - Google Drive

@NZ00Z3 Is this better?

 

[swooshdave]

Thank you for the excellent logs. Perfect first time up. Well done.

Here is my analysis file: 20221120 Idle Problems- Swooshdave.xlsx

The Pre-Cat O2 sensor on bank 2 is dead. Recommend that you replace both pre-cat O2 sensors. Then see what is happening.

Time Invested
It took just over an hour to spread sheet your logs and write up this post.

2001 330xi

I’m afraid to find out how much you charge by the hour. 😁

As I mentioned above the Bank 1 O2 sensor looks newer than the other one. From your analysis it looks like Bank 1 is working. Is your recommendation to replace both based on the data or is it assuming that the sensors are of the same vintage?

 

[swooshdave]

Yes, based on the assumption that they are the same age. If bank 1 has been replaced, then only do bank 2.

I work for free, It's my giving back to the forum that has taught me so much.

I obviously greatly appreciate your input.

Now off to shop for the 02 sensor. Then I'll post my logs again. It'll be a good comparison.

<update> Placed order with Pelican. Hopefully with them being in CA they will get here shortly.

 

[swooshdave]

Oil on O2 sensor

I’m trying to replace my sensor and notice there’s a bit of oil on it. Heating up the manifold as so far it’s not budging. Wondering where the oil could be coming from.

www.e46fanatics.com

Replaced sensor. Will pull new logs. I had warmed the car up to get sensor out so couldn’t get clean logs. But initial readings look a lot better.

 

[swooshdave]

@NZ00Z3

Second round of logs available now. The only thing I changed that's material was the rear O2 sensor (Bank 2 pre-cat, per instructions).

E46 Google Drive - Google Drive

I did not clear the SES or anything. I don't know how long it takes for the trims to reset or if they need to be. What else do I need to do?

I'm not 100% confident that Bank 1 O2 sensor is perfect but that's from cursory glances at the Fusion dashboards while driving.

 

[swooshdave]

Another set of good logs. Thank you.

Here is my updated analysis file: 20221120 2001 330iX Idle Problems- Swooshdave.xlsx

Both pre-cat O2's are now working well, there is no fuel system status faults anymore. Well done.

A couple of thing s to look at:

• Check the SAP system. Make sure that you do not have a hole in a rubber hose or that the metal valve is leaking. In the Cold Start Pre-cat O2's chart, I can see the O2 sensors heat and go lean while the SAP is running. When the SAP turns off (Command secondary air goes to 4), the O2 sensors should go rich. They are not. They stay lean and the fuel trims show around 17% lean. A leaking SAP will cause lean fuel trims.
• If you haven't smoke tested the engine for vacuum leaks, then do it. Cruise fuel trims are great. Hot idle fuel trims are on the upper margin. This indicates a small vacuum leak somewhere.

You always have the option of, if it's not popping any codes, then drive it like you stole it.

Time Invested
It took a little over an hours to spread sheet your logs and write up this post.

Thank you again! Yes, I saw the hot idle fuel trims and thought they were high.

Doesn't the SES get triggered at 25%?

Am I safe to clear codes or some other sort of reset?

When I got the car all three of the SAP mounts were broken. I replaced them. I'm not sure what could have broken them, perhaps age and heat being near the headers. But I will check all of the hoses in the area.

Yes, smoke test is in my future. And suspension bushings. And motor mounts. Luckily I like working on this thing.

 

[swooshdave]

I think this depends if the car is MS43 or MS45. My car ran at +24% STFT continuously without codes while I was troubleshooting. In certain conditions it would exceed 26% and then throw a code instantly.

Should be a MS43 for a 2001 330xi, correct?

 

[swooshdave]

Clear the codes and reset the adaptions as needed.

The fuel system deviation codes pop when the fuel trms exceed 10% for a predetermined time (can't remember the time).

If it's not popping codes, then enjoy driving it and tinkering with it.

I did a search and haven’t found out how to reset the adaptations yet.

 

[swooshdave]

With an OBD11 scanner the adaptions and monitors get cleared when ever you clear the codes.

With some BMW scanners e.g. INPA, it is 2 separate actions.

Thanks, just confirming I didn't need INPA.

 

[swooshdave]

Someone at work has a really nice smoke machine I can borrow. I won't have to make something that resembles a Molotov cocktail...

 

[swooshdave]

Update: I did not clear the codes but after a few cycles the SES has gone out.