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Discussion Starter #1
Background: Picked up this vehicle really cheap with the knowledge that it had no reverse – made assumption is was the GM transmission issue with old reverse solenoid problem. Got the car home (approx. 30 miles). Put car in Reverse still goes forward. Placed it in Neutral - still going forward. Once in Limp mode, I had to really gas it to get it through the light.
Scanned – (codes below)
Battery power producing 13. 4 volts


Symptom:
Hit 45 mph – get the COG – Limp mode and struggles to go up hills.
Car goes into Limp mode when the transmission heats up
Does not go into reverse or Neutral.
Must turn the car off to push backward
No Grinding or noise from the transmission (gears appear to be okay)


Changed out the MAF – No change.
Transmission fluid pretty clean and red – No odd smell
CODEs:
37 – Position Sensor, Clutch
91 – Can Torque Reduction
36 – Batt “+” supply

Appears to be electrical..
Next step is to Flash the TCM
 

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There I was, Sicily, 1918..
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2,531 Posts
OK, well, questions:

These are all referring to electrical issues (e.g., when I say 'load')
  1. Is there any extra electrical load on the vehicle (e.g., aftermarket amp)?
  2. Did you change the clutch sensor?
  3. Could there be a short on the connection(s) to the transmission?
  4. What's the alternator voltage while running?
Now, the big one: if you're not going into gears, I'm guessing there may be one or more screwed up connections, and less an issue of voltage to the tranny.

I would check every transmission sensor -- if anything, make sure they're OEM -- and make sure there're no spliced or tapped wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
1) Is there any extra electrical load on the vehicle (e.g., aftermarket amp)? - no.. Still stock. Nothing added
2) Did you change the clutch sensor? Haven't had a chance was planning on the flash first.
3) Could there be a short on the connection(s) to the transmission? Checked the wiring under the hood by driver side (control modules)
4) What's the alternator voltage while reading running. Will verify tomorrow.. Busy weekend with the kids. (School promotions)
5) I'm leaning towards the sensors.

Contacted the previous owner and he stated that he changed out ALL SOLENOID. Didn't state that they were OEM nor did he describe the original problem. I feel you may be right Sicily1918

More to come this weekend. Father's Day should allow me some freedom with the ride. Lol
 

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There I was, Sicily, 1918..
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2,531 Posts
Contacted the previous owner and he stated that he changed out ALL SOLENOID. Didn't state that they were OEM nor did he describe the original problem. I feel you may be right Sicily1918
Too bad he didn't describe the original problem, but if I'm not mistaken, the solenoids are all different, even if they look the same -- kinda like the O2 sensors -- so it's very easy to plug in the wrong one (e.g., the output speed sensor vs. the input speed sensor).

As for OEM, it seems the consensus here that non-OEM sensors are problematic at best, so you might wanna also look at how much BMW ones will cost you...

This is so bad; my outside temp sensor was completely wrong (it was +20 - 25 degrees F). Unplugged it, found out it was non-OEM, and replaced it with a $45 BMW one, and now it's perfect (at least according to every bank I drive past) :D
 

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Any updates on this? I just picked up a 2001 330ci with the ZF auto and I'm having the same issue. Purchased car with known "no reverse" issue, replaced D drum with Kuhle part and reassembled. I did remove the solenoids individually to clean them and make sure no metal debris was lurking. Now car wants to go forward no matter what gear is engaged. I am almost 100% sure I did not mix up the solenoids. Thinking I might just try a new valve body or perhaps just bite the bullet and go with a complete used tranny. Please let me know if you figured this issue out. Stupid slushboxes...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi Brea - We contacted the original owner and he explained to us that the vehicle was running fine, but he saw the COG symbol... he didn't know what to do, so after googling it - he replaced all the solenoids.. We went back into the tranny - The problem was he did not connect the gear shift to the Valve body, by him not connecting the two.. he wasn't able to get reverse. Bottomline - Operator error..
I did purchased a rebuild Valve body as a precaution. but for $2660 total for this 05' 330i with 127K miles... i don't think its a bad idea..

check your connections is all i say be careful...
 

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100% right, I dropped the pan again shortly after posting and figured out the same. I screwed up and didn't seat the shift valve on the valve body fully with the external shift mechanism. Like you said, operator error. I bought this car on the cheap to flip and it's driving me up a wall, now having output speed sensor and stall speed codes and the car goes into limp mode after 2nd gear.

A new valve body fixed your issue?

My reverse works beautifully now, so I've got that going for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey Brea, The valve body helped out a lot. I just need to drive it for a while to see if I get more codes. I work 3 miles from my house... I may have to make a long trip some where soon...LOL

I am glad that we were able to get our vehicles up and running again. Reverse is smooth.

Keep me posted on any other solutions you find..
 
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