The car has an anti-theft module called the EWS. If the key doesn’t provide the EWS with the proper code the EWS won’t allow the starter to work. Search this forum for the key syncing procedure.
No crank, EWS delete DME (solved)
2001 325ci. I’m not sure. So replaced starter, fuses, relays, new battery. Has the correct volts. Just put in a new dme (people told me my old one was fried) and flashed a revmatch motorsports ews delete tune on it. Everything turns on (lights, radio, ac) but no crank. The e box fuse panel fuse #4 blows every time I turn the key. Why is there no crank? why does that fuse keep blowing?
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It has a ews delete. My bud who is a big time tuner has tuned ews delete.The car has an anti-theft module called the EWS. If the key doesn’t provide the EWS with the proper code the EWS won’t allow the starter to work. Search this forum for the key syncing procedure.
EWS delete tune allows the car to start when the DME and EWS do not sync up. You still need a key that is programmed to the EWS to start the car.
My key is programmed. It still locks and unlocks.
Fair enough, it sounds like something is shorting and that's why your fuse keeps blowing. Do you know what fuse #4 is for? It would be worth checking the wiring for the parts that the fuse is for for any splits.
Disconnect the items on that fuse one by one...(you can buy a reusable fuse for when it blows)...the one that allows car to start without blowing the fuse is where your problem is--likely a short/broken wire touching metal...
Good luck
Good luck
And in addition, the lock/unlock HAS NOTHING to do with the EWS.
The key has two completely separate functions.
1) Lock/unlock the car.
2) Secret handshake with the EWS module.
One has NOTHING to do with the other.
The key has two completely separate functions.
1) Lock/unlock the car.
2) Secret handshake with the EWS module.
One has NOTHING to do with the other.
EWS controls cranking. Key must have a transponder that matches with your EWS so that EWS will enable starter relay to crank.It has a ews delete.
Is your key original/matching with that EWS module?
DME controls spark and fuel. EWS delete feature in DME software simply allows DME to turn on spark and fuel while cranking even if ISN stored in DME and ISN stored in EWS do not match eachother.
Have a read through our No Start Guide.
It was a mix of fried DME and EWS modules. I put a new DME and bypassed EWS and that fixed it.
First the blowing of fuse 4 in the ebox is very concerning. It shouldn’t have prevented the no crank though. The blowing fuse 4 could be a pinched/shorted wire in the engine harness. Check the wiring to the O2 sensors. I think they have a wire that is hot (has 12 Volts). Just check all the wiring to all the sensors, actuators and spark coils. Maybe a bad coil pack (internal short). Disconnect all the coil packs and see if the fuse blows.
Regarding the no crank. Do you still have the EWS module in the car? If you have the DME EWS bypass you don’t need it to crank and some people bypass the module with a blade fuse in the connector. When you see the connector you’ll know where the blade fuse goes. Try that and see if you get crank. That will rule out the EWS module, transponder in the key and ring antenna. If still no crank then ignition switch, starter or battery safety terminal (BST) blown (check for 12V at the jumper point under the hood, no 12V then BST is blown)
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Regarding the no crank. Do you still have the EWS module in the car? If you have the DME EWS bypass you don’t need it to crank and some people bypass the module with a blade fuse in the connector. When you see the connector you’ll know where the blade fuse goes. Try that and see if you get crank. That will rule out the EWS module, transponder in the key and ring antenna. If still no crank then ignition switch, starter or battery safety terminal (BST) blown (check for 12V at the jumper point under the hood, no 12V then BST is blown)
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Methinks there's a lot more of tried this and that missing.
How did you bypass EWS?
You have to get a small wire. Go under the plastic under the steering wheel and put the wire where the 2 big black wires are to bypass them.How did you bypass EWS?
Totally agree,
when there is a dme with ews delete tune, the computer no longer needs authorization from the ews to provide injection and spark plug ignition...however, the computer does not manage the starter, it it will therefore be necessary to close the contact which manages the starter at the level of the ews box. then there will be no need for a transponder in the key.
when there is a dme with ews delete tune, the computer no longer needs authorization from the ews to provide injection and spark plug ignition...however, the computer does not manage the starter, it it will therefore be necessary to close the contact which manages the starter at the level of the ews box. then there will be no need for a transponder in the key.
Is the wiring in the dash, or are you talking about the steering wheel?
This would bypass the EWS internal relay. The relay is needed to reduce the current in the ignition switch contact. So shorting out pin1 to pin2 will burn out the switch contact soon.You have to get a small wire. Go under the plastic under the steering wheel and put the wire where the 2 big black wires are to bypass them
The correct way to bypass the EWS is to take out the board, then modify the traces to the relay to have pin2 energize the relay and the relay provide 12v to pin1 to run the starter.
With an EWS delete you need to bypass the connector as well for power to go from ignition to the starter. Take the two thick wires for the EWS connector (1 and 2) and splice em together so 12v goes from the ignition switch to the DME to the starter.
Bypass the EWS internal relay will lead to damaged ignition switch contacts soon. The ignition contact should not drive the starter solenoid directly. Should add a relay to the wire.With an EWS delete you need to bypass the connector as well for power to go from ignition to the starter. Take the two thick wires for the EWS connector (1 and 2) and splice em together so 12v goes from the ignition switch to the DME to the starter.
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