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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Fanatics,

Just to give you some background on what I did yesterday on my 2002, e46 vert:

Me and a friend jacked up the car to do a stud conversion, using standard length studs purchased from wheeldude.com. Used red loctite on the end of each stud before screwing it in.

After the loctite dried, we went ahead and mounted my 19 BBS LM reps on, and put the car back on the ground.

Here's my problem: When I start the car and put it in drive, the wheels lock after moving forward OR backward for less than 1 foot. It feels like the brakes are engaging on its own.

On the dashboard, the "Worn Brake Pads" light is showing. Currently, my car is stuck in the driveway of my friends house, and I have 10 hours to figure out how to fix it (or i guess i'm taking the bus to work tomorrow :(.

Can you guys please help a fanatic out?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Just to add also: The studs were too long (even though wheel dude said they'll be ok) for the close ended lug nuts i got from them.

Luckily, i had 5 MM spacers to put in the front so the close ended lug nuts would fit.

The rears weren't so lucky, so i had to run to kragen and buy open ended lugs for the meanwhile, until i get spacers.

Please help guys?!
 

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Jack the car back up and rotate each wheel by hand.
It sounds like the stud is going in too far and making contact with something on the other side of the hub. With the wheel off it should be easy to diagnose.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
hey ChiMaster,

Is that possbile that the stud goes behind the hub? If so, I'm going to have trouble removing the stud, since it's loctited in there really good. When we tried removing the studs, it felt like the head of the stud (with the allen wrench indentation) was gonna strip.

Any recommendations on how to remove the stud?
 

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The stud would inserted the same as the original lugs.
Have you checked the back of the hub to make sure there's no interference?

As far as removing them, make sure that you are using the correct tools.
An allen wrench is going to flex, you need the socketed type.

To remove it I would tap it first with a hammer to break the seal and then attempt to remove it.

You need to be careful at this point, drilling out studs is no fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
alright, the first thing i'll do is to go ahead and check behind the hub to see if anything is interfering it.

I should be able to see this by just taking off the wheel right? Or would I have to take off the rotor? (i hope not cause i'm not sure how to do this)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
also, what would explain why the "Worn Brake Pad" light turned on, on my dashboard?

Would it have anything to do with this?
 

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Start with the basics, rotate with the wheel on first, if it spins freely, no problem, if it doesn't then you've found the problem. Take the wheel off and investigate further.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for all the help Chi, I figured it out! (Whew)

I turned out that the rear wheel (that i didn't put studs on yet) had longer bolts, that went too far and into the hub (like you suggested). Took them out, and put shorter bolts, and now the wheels spin freely!

Thanks! :woot:
 
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