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I recently purchased an 02 e46 M3. it has an after market AFE intake, front and rear struts, H&R lowering springs, and a short throw shifter along with some minor visuals. While driving it has cut off on me twice so far randomly; once while on the highway and once will idling in neutral in a parking lot. I bought it from a reputable dealership that specializes in higher end cars. they say it was recently serviced and oil levels and such were good. however last time I turned off my car the oil warning light came on in yellow? also when it cut off those two times it did not bog down at all simply just lost power then battery and oil lights came on briefly (as they would when you turn the key to battery) now in full disclosure it has been years since I owned a manual and the first day was a little rough getting used to it but I was doing nothing out of the ordinary when the power loss happened. Also when it is idling and i shut off my A/C the idling rpms drop to almost a stall then jump back up. sorry for the long post just want the info to be there. in short What may have caused the power loss and how should i go about correcting it?
 

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One of the best investments an M3 owner can make is to buy a diagnosing cable and software. It was invaluable when I had my M3. Without codes it could be anything.
 

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How many miles on the car? Did it come with service records? Do you know if the fuel filter has been replaced?


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You need to do what you should have done before even buying the car. Go have it inspected by a mechanic that is familiar with M cars.
 

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Maybe it's CPS?

That could cause the engine to shut off randomly.

However it won't throw a code (CEL) unless its really bad. It will soft fail for a while.

GL


You can reach me at 888-790-7665
 

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Have you checked simple stuff like the ground cable at the battery, and the engine ground straps? I agree, though, checking the computers for stored trouble codes would probably help considerably.

Given your description, it sounds like an electrical problem, to me.
 

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What about the battery itself? If it's old, it can be down on power even if it will still start the car. (There's probably a date right on top.)
I know less than nothing, but this seems more like an electrical problem to me.
 

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I recently purchased an 02 e46 M3. it has an after market AFE intake, front and rear struts, H&R lowering springs, and a short throw shifter along with some minor visuals. While driving it has cut off on me twice so far randomly; once while on the highway and once will idling in neutral in a parking lot. I bought it from a reputable dealership that specializes in higher end cars. they say it was recently serviced and oil levels and such were good. however last time I turned off my car the oil warning light came on in yellow? also when it cut off those two times it did not bog down at all simply just lost power then battery and oil lights came on briefly (as they would when you turn the key to battery) now in full disclosure it has been years since I owned a manual and the first day was a little rough getting used to it but I was doing nothing out of the ordinary when the power loss happened. Also when it is idling and i shut off my A/C the idling rpms drop to almost a stall then jump back up. sorry for the long post just want the info to be there. in short What may have caused the power loss and how should i go about correcting it?
I need have it checked out by a tech who knows Ms and it came back clean
Your mechanic does not know BMW or M cars and for that matter, he just does not understand cars. With all the issues you have listed, do you think the car is clean? Use common sense.
Was this a BMW dealer that told you the car has been serviced? You do know sales guys will say anything. You also know that they can say anything and the contract that you sign clears the sales guy from anything he said, right? You read the contract word by word, right?
If you are not mechanically inclined, take it to a BMW shop or dealer to get a full inspection of everything. If you are mechanically inclined, buy an OBD II scanner or Peake code reader and report the results to this forum. People will help you out.
 

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Haha wow ok "clean" as in fluids good maintence items good no leaks or squeaks runs fine.(even during two test drives I took it on the idling never once acted up.) Thats what I mean by clean and a regular code reader isn't going to do anything because its not throwing codes I would have to delve into the ecu which has already been recommended and I intend to do. For that matter In reality I feel as tho it comes down to does the after market air intake affect the MAF. And/or is the compressor going out causing the tidling timing to be off causing shut off in neutral.
 

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In other words it wasn't inspected.

Needs to be hooked up to diagnostic software like a GT1 or INPA. Even if the light's not illuminated you could have stored codes.
 

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Take the Carfax report and wipe yourself the next time you go to the bathroom.

Let's try to put this in order. When the car stops running, the condition at that time is that the key is in Position II (RUN), before engine start -- technically, after engine dies -- and this by definition will illuminate a handful of lights on the dashboard that are absolutely meaningless at this time. The only function of the lights at this time is to show you that the lights work. The Charging System light is on, the oil light is on, the Check Engine (SERVICE ENGINE SOON) light is on, the ABS light is on, and there are others. These lights are on to show that they work. Period.

The yellow Oil Light means that you need to check the oil. Period. If the oil is low, then you have to add some. If the oil is not low then the sensor that is detecting low oil is not working properly. When you pull the dipstick, there is a notch for MIN and a notch for MAX. If the oil is anywhere between these two marks it is okay, if at or below the MIN mark then it needs a quart to bring it to the upper mark. If the quart brings it to a level that is anywhere between the upper and lower notch, then stop adding oil.

The problem you are having, and the only one that matters for now, is that the car is turning itself off for no apparent reason. My instinct is that you need to find the local Independent Authorized BMW Service Center in your town. The people you are dealing with where you bought the car are not telling you the right stuff.
 

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You can test the low idle speed by using your right foot to hold the idle up to about 750-ish. If you can keep the idle to 750 and it does not die, then you can reasonably assume that the low idle is the problem, and then go down that trail if needed.

I'm not one to suggest driving with both feet unless one of them is used exclusively on the clutch pedal, but it is a reasonable diagnostic effort to keep a foot on the brake while the other foot is keeping the idle speed up. Your car should be idling at about 750 to 800 rpm.
 

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A generic OBDII code reader can be a lot of help.

$35 or less for a smart phone App and interface.

You can see Fuel Trims, O2 sensor performance, record the OBDII datastream.

People discount standard OBDII tools all day long, when they should be used on a almost daily basis.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=967204

A more advanced BMW specific tool MIGHT help, but I doubt it.

You may have something as simple as a dying fuel pump as well.

You should read the link below in my signature, lots to consider on these cars.
 
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