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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone
I have a dual mass flywheel to be replaced on my M54B22, which has been making noise for a long time now (mostly on idle, rattling noise from undeneath gas pedal). Others stuff I would normaly do while droping the gearbox will be also replaced (rear main seal, selector and gearbox seals, shift lever, plastic washers and so on).

But I'm wondering about few things:
  1. Does the SACHS pressure plate have any points or dashes on it that need to be matched with the dual mass for the whole thing to be balanced? (I feel like LuKs plates have some dots or lines that tells you in which way it goes)
  2. Should l install dual mass with bolts that comes with the kit that are shorter and torxs or use old hex bolts that are longer with blue lock?
  3. The rear main seal should be dry while installation process or should I lubricate it with oil?. And is an ordinary blue lock enough for these leaking bolts that hold the sealant body? Or special sealant is needed?
  4. Replacing the gearbox seal from the engine side is quite simple, but from the side the shaft is there is apparently a procedure with tightening this flange, but it's hard to find anything about it.
  5. Any ideas?
 

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If you look closely, the pressure plate has 3 holes that are bigger than others, 1´o clock, 5´o clock and 9´o clock position in the picture. Those are alignment holes and I think they are unevenly spaced so that you can put your pressure plate only in one position (the right position). I´ve put my rear main sean in the RMS carrier dry, no problems. I would use the included bolts that contain factory thread sealant, so there is no risk of oil seeping through. Don´t forget to include a dab of RTV sealant in critical areas of your RMS housing, I think you can find it here in the forums.
 

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2. I WOULD caution to make sure the new bolts protrude out of the flywheel into the crank
the same amount that the old ones stuck out of the old flywheel.

Sachs is not what they once were, and BMW has used a LOT of different length bolts there-
you want the same amount of engagement with the flywheel as you had before.

1. no, not if it's not indexed to the flywheel, it should be neutral balanced.

3. I use a little silicone to get the seal into the carrier, and oil the inside lip
of the seal where it contacts the crank. It needs the oil- the silicone just makes installation easier.
And yes, oil- resistant RTV is fine on the back of the carrier.

4. just do it evenly, if it doesn't seat down flat with a push.

5. clean everything really well. Be prepared to angle front of the engine up to get it back together.
I found swearing helped a lot. Oh, and install it with the shift linkage mostly assembled.

t
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you look closely, the pressure plate has 3 holes that are bigger than others, 1´o clock, 5´o clock and 9´o clock position in the picture. Those are alignment holes and I think they are unevenly spaced so that you can put your pressure plate only in one position (the right position)
Unfortunately it fits in 3 different ways I just checked it out on the flywheel

I found swearing helped a lot.
True as long as it's 2am and your neighbor visits you asking what is going on. So its ok to put like 2 drops of engine oil on the crank shaft before installation, someone told me that it should go dry but it somehow sounded strange to me or to use WD-40 but feel like engine oil will work just fine then.

4. just do it evenly, if it doesn't seat down flat with a push.
I meant the torque of tightening the flange from guibo side, there is like pretorque procedure to set the bearing behind the sealent (2 times tighteing)

I will just unscrew top bolts from engine mounts and tilt it down then put some wood between oil pan and front supportbar so it stays like this.
 

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If it's oil resistant, sure.
For the drain, nothing's needed, as the crush washer makes the seal

DON'T torque those little bolts- the Loctite will reduce the torque
needed to the point that they'll snap at factory 'spec'.
Just get that metal gasket squished flat- you'll feel when it is-
and then stop.

DO use a silicone RTV at the corners of the housing,
where it meets the oil pan- it'll leak there, otherwise

t
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For the drain, nothing's needed, as the crush washer makes the seal
I don't think there is one, I used to fill new gearbox oil once and there was none. My drain plug looks like on the pic. Or is there something I don't know?
Household hardware Coin Nickel Currency Auto part

DO use a silicone RTV at the corners of the housing,
where it meets the oil pan- it'll leak there, otherwise
I know even a little bit under the metal gasket, like the gasket is almost (or even touching) oil pan.
 

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There is no washer in the drain plug. It goes into the gearbox and gets tightened. I think the plug has tapered thread or somthing like that, because it just stops in certain spot when you torque it back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So everything went smoothly untili I moved to the main bell housing bolts, which are just welded to the transmission. After one hour I got one bolt out (right bottom), moved to left side and after half hour it just moved out a little and then snapped off. The two top bolts are mangled. They moved, but felt like they were about to break, so I just screwed them back in. I will put everything back together, because I have to drive the car. Any ideas how to cut the two top bolts and how to make better acces to them? I got the smaller bolts out.

 

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Ugh. That probably means the clutch has been out of the car before, and they reused the bolts. Or, the bolts were rusty on the very ends. The bolts have a coating that reduces the chance that they'll gall on the aluminum block. Mine had been reused too, and I had similar problems. I eventually got them out by dousing them in aluminum cutting fluid and working them back and forth. Any lube for aluminum on iron should work.

hth

t
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The grarbox never been touched i bought this car when it had 60.000 km now it is over 340k i think that the only option is to cut the heads off because there is no meat to grab on with E14 socket E16 fits but slips i will try with the special soocket but need to have more options. As you said the ends are making it imposible to get out i cleaned them but didnt helped
 

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You can drop the front subframe/suspension/engine/transmission down as a single unit, then remove the trans bolts. This requires a lift, but is by far the easiest method for engine or transmission removal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Is there any way I can tilt the engine even more just so I can fit my hand with a dremel? I also thought to slowly tear off the heads by using a long metal file weld an extension and fit it to pneumatic drill. I want to avoid dropping the whole engine just for two bolts. And how about to take off the intake will I have better acces from this side?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
After 10hrs I got it out, one bolt is broken second took threads with it. Its ok to use M12x1.75 tap and rethread the hole? Or will it be better to use helicoil

I got a little play on gearbox input shaft is that normal?

There is one bolt leaking i believe that is located above transmission (just one bolt bolted into engine) its ok to unscrew and use some loctice?



 

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There are many bolts that hold the transmission on. If one has 70% thread strength, you should be fine with a new bolt and clean both threads (bolt and engine) with a tap & die.

Input shaft play ,= normal. That's what the pilot bearing is for. Replace with new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If one has 70% thread strength, you should be fine
How about 0%? Was trying to unscrew the broken bolt

That's what the pilot bearing is for. Replace with new.
I did used the bread method and changed the rear main seal as well, puted loctite on those 2 leaking housing bolts but not sure if it gonna be enough. Letting it sit overnight
The bolt that is wet with oil is sealed with copper washer, do not use thread sealant on it.
I putted the loctite on it and screwed it back in with the washer (it comes with aluminium washer) Im sure it was causing the leak, everything above was dry and clean.

Looks like a bad idea but holds quite good.
 

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Sorry to see this mess. My transmission bolts went out like nothing after 21 years and the car saw snow and salt every year. The gearbox to engine mounting top bolts are really an awful design, so hard to get to from underneath. I swore like hell when I did mine. When I have the opportunity, I will install new bolts, because I reused my original ones. Will you update how your solution holds up after some time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
After almost 2 weeks evrything works fine no leaks or wet spots loctite 577 seals good those 2 bottom bolts. I haily recomend to change oil pan gasket before the whole clutch process to avoid unnecesarry leaks I did mine like 1 month ago and it heleped a lot I belive. Now its time for the whole rear suspension I will drop everything down (even the gastank) do the rust (sandblasting) propably weld in reinforcements plates if needed and change evry bushing there is for Meyle HD and lemfolder with rubed bmw logo on them (it have to be made in Germany otherwise its better to put meyle HD instead) Use Interthane epoxy primer on sandlasted sheet metal and after 6 hrs sikaflex 529AT and you extended the life of the car for another 10 years. For the suspension parts its good to put same epoxy and after 45 mins polyurethane paint like interthane 990gs or something similar. Then wax all over it everytime before winter and there is no way for the rust to come out.
 

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After almost 2 weeks evrything works fine no leaks or wet spots loctite 577 seals good those 2 bottom bolts. I haily recomend to change oil pan gasket before the whole clutch process to avoid unnecesarry leaks I did mine like 1 month ago and it heleped a lot I belive. Now its time for the whole rear suspension I will drop everything down (even the gastank) do the rust (sandblasting) propably weld in reinforcements plates if needed and change evry bushing there is for Meyle HD and lemfolder with rubed bmw logo on them (it have to be made in Germany otherwise its better to put meyle HD instead) Use Interthane epoxy primer on sandlasted sheet metal and after 6 hrs sikaflex 529AT and you extended the life of the car for another 10 years. For the suspension parts its good to put same epoxy and after 45 mins polyurethane paint like interthane 990gs or something similar. Then wax all over it everytime before winter and there is no way for the rust to come out.
That's the WAY to do it!
 
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