The locks are controlled by the general module (GM5) that’s located above the fuse panel. Basically, the GM5 module is a bunch of electronic relays. But, before you go to the effort and expense of removing and having it repaired, pop out the central locking switch from the console. It has the 4-way flasher button in the module. See if the bottom (the guts) has fallen out if the switch housing. It’s a fairly common problem. If it has merely reinsert the guts and glue the unit together.

Now, if the switch is fine the GM5 module ya likely bad. Go to www.bmwgm5.com for more info. The website owner, Scottjon, repairs GM5 modules for a very reasonable price.

 

...and although the key turns the lock tumbler, I'm assuming it is solenoid actuated and not a mechanical linkage?



Looking for where to start diagnosing so I can get this sorted.

The key in the drivers door is a direct mechanical linkage to the drivers door actuator assembly. When you turn to the 45 degree point it activates the electronic locking and unlocking in the general module. When turning to unlock it should light the interior lights. If this does not happen pull out the lock cylinder and check the mechanical linkage. If the linkage is good then you should hear a sound from the doors. If no sound, check fuse 60. When turned 45->90 degrees it will mechanically lock or unlock the drivers door depending on direction you turn and works even if the battery in the car is dead.

If the drivers door does lock and unlock with a full 90 degree turn and you do hear a sound from the doors at the 45 degree point then it sounds like the door lock actuators might be bad. This is a common failure with coupe and convertibles and usually results in complete failure to unlock. If the problem was “intermittent” failure to unlock, which is more common on sedans and wagons (yes I am aware you said your car is a ci or coupe), then my diagnosis would be different.

 

Thanks for the starting point. I'll be able to get into it this weekend. At the very least it sounds like I have a dead circuit.

 

So I made some progress on this today. Not terribly thrilled but progress.
Two of the central locking fuses were pulled. After I got the tumbler out, I put the fuses back in and promptly locked myself out. At least the passenger side solenoid works. I used a screw driver in the tumbler slot to unlock the driver door. Also opened/ closed all the windows and sunroof holding the key too long.
Driver side solenoid is the place to look next? That door only unlocked with the mechanical linkage.

 

In post #60 I kinda suspected the central locking fuse 60 was probably blown or missing. What was the other fuse? Only 49 and 60 are required for the central locking and if 49 was missing it would cause everything the module controls to not work. If the doors never unlock then the problem is more likely the actuator. If it’s intermittent (or it’s a 4-dr) then the problem is more likely the module. It is best to read the fault codes from the general module. There would have been a code for the missing fuse and there will be a fault code for module problems with the central locking system.


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