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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
In the interest of sharing the knowledge - below is my successful Factory HK Sub Replacement.

Free-Air Application
Very happy with the results.
$175.00 all in

Sub: Kicker 10C104
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-dYq6wjF9vE7/p_20610C104/Kicker-10C104.html
150W RMS - 4 ohm
$45.00 on eBay

Amp: Kenwood X501-1
http://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/excelon/x501-1/
300W RMS @4 ohm
$85.00 on eBay

Rockford Fosgate 2 Channel Speaker output Adaptor
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-d78WAC7rvi1/p_575RFIF2SW/Rockford-Fosgate-RFiF2SW.html
$10.00 on eBay
*If your Amp choice does not accept speaker level input, go with a Line Out Converter for about the same price.

Harmony 8 Guage Amp Install Kit
https://www.amazon.com/Harmony-Audio-HA-AK8-Complete-Amplifier/dp/B00W5SM17K
$15.00 on eBay

2 square ft of Generic Dynomat
$10.00 on eBay

MDF and Hardware/Spray Paint/Connectors
$10.00


I took a rough measurement of the ski pass opening and cut the MDF to size.
Bottom edge cut at an angle to account for the slanted mount. Used some weather stripping on the bottom to firm that up.

Mounted it using L Brackets which I drilled out to fit the torx screws used to mount the existing sub bracket.

Sound Deadening material cut to size to fill the sides of the ski-pass. I also used 4 small pieces as a sort of washer for the mounting of the MDF to the body (probably overkill)

Amp MDF is a 3/8" bigger around than the amp itself - screwed straight in to the back of the trunk compartment (over the carpet)

Tapped the Adaptor in Pre-Factory Amp using the below connections:
Left+ - 37 (yellow/black) = White
Left - - 29 (brown/orange) = White/Black
Right+ - 8 (blue/black)= Grey
Right- - 16 - (brown/orange) = Grey/Black
If you need Remote Power (this amp didnt) it would go into 10 which is White

Make sure you install an inline fuse which is close to the battery.
There's a ground point just above the battery that works well for the Amp Ground

I'm debating whether to do a customized speaker grill in the center cushion. Honestly, at this point it doesnt seem necessary. Sounds great.

Two final pieces of advice:
1. Get a quality Crimper to do the spade and ring terminals.
2. use plenty long Ground and Power wire to the battery. Cutting to exact size will cause you issues when you re-install the trunks interior.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I cant speak to replacing the factory amp as I left mine - and frankly it's been fine. I also left my stock HK speakers and Business CD HU as well, though.
In theory, removing the sub from the factory amp should free up some power.....take that for what you will.
End of the day I'm very happy with the sound I am getting w/ the factory speakers/amp/after market sub and sub specific Amp.

As for 5 and 6
I used 3/4 just because that was available.
1/2 would probably suffice and would be better if you are building a box in the ski pass (less bulk)

As for a box or Dynomat -
The audiophile will say an enclosure (or MDF sides) would be better.
I personally think mine turned out perfectly fine for about 10.00 in material and cutting to fit w/ a razorblade.
NOTE---my sub is designed for Free Air versus some that need an enclosure.....so keep that in mind.

Building a box shouldn't be too crazy a task. There are DIYs here and online.
There's also a guy on eBay that sells a pre-made box. (search "e46 sub enclosure"). He also sells the mounting board which is precisely cut to fit. I decided it was overkill for what I was going for....

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Another thing to keep in mind...Convertibles a HORRIBLE environment for trying to capture quality sound. Top down worse than top up---but both are not ideal.
Thus I went for the most noticeable bang for the buck w/ the sub upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thats exactly where it is.
You're going to have the entire back seat out, along w and the drivers side rear panel.
You're going to want to unmount the bracket, then unplug it. Before the plug will be where you tap in.
You'll want to confirm that the numbers on the plug and the wire colors co-relate.

I originally used quick tap connectors. Ended up just cutting the wires and using Wire Nuts - they felt more secure to me.

my main advice is to check out some other DIYs on this forum. the more info you have going in, the better.
also-from my post above:
Two final pieces of advice:
1. Get a quality Crimper to do the spade and ring terminals.
2. use plenty long Ground and Power wire to the battery. Cutting to exact size will cause you issues when you re-install the trunks interior.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That's referencing the card showing the wire colors and pin outs. I didn't take a pic of the the factory amp.

What you will encounter is a bunch or wires wrapped together. You unwrap them - single out the wire in question and go to work one at a time. Once finished, re-wrap the whole gob back together.

Sent from my BBB100-1 using E46Fanatics mobile app
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I'm lost on that question.
This unit looks like it has sub amp to sub handled.
Pre-factory amp you will be tapping in to 4 wires w the LOC or something like the converter I ended up using (since my amp accepted speaker level input).

You won't be able to trace where any of the wires you are Tapping in to are going.

Sent from my BBB100-1 using E46Fanatics mobile app
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
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