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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Zhp Motor Update

Well I took the valve cover off to confirm its a real zhp engine (If it wasn't I wouldn't mind since I got a great deal) and it looks perfect under there! :excited:

Plus I believe the CCV system has been done recently and the hard coolant pipes look to be replace too so I'm not replacing them.

I might be putting this engine into my car since I have a 04 and I believe its more plug-n-play than the 01 car, Its a shame tho, the gauge cluster is for a manual and I'm not up for nor have the 6sp to do a manual swap. Plus the whole reason to get the parts car running is to learn to drive stick in the first place. I know I know its a waste of an engine to pair it to an auto but I will swap out the auto for a manual in the future

(I now realize it's a little complicated to swap clusters without having a tamper dot)

Any advice would be much appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
She Lives! The swap is nearly complete! :excited:

I took the old engine out last weekend and replaced the heater hoses while the engine was out. I also went to a junk yard to get a MAF and 330i Airbox, I found a drive shaft just laying next to an 04 325i! The same part# and the u joints are perfect! :woot:

Got the New engine in a couple of days ago and now started her up yesterday. The headers are really loud!

I put the front end on this morning and took it around the block and everything went well, maybe a exhaust leak? No vibration coming from the driveshaft, so fixed my drive shaft vibration for 40$ .



I arrived home only to notice steam coming from the kidney grills. After further inspection it seems the radiator is leaking on the bottom left side. :banghead:

I ordered a new one from FCP plus the expansion tank and hopefully get this project done by the end of the week. I still have to flash the ECU, I have the cable and my XP laptop but still figuring that out right now but she runs and drives


(Fixed exhaust leak, there was a small gap where the headers meet the exhaust, I just doubled the gaskets and that seemed to do the trick, don't know how long that's gonna hold though)
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Swap complete!

Alrighty I received my radiator yesterday, 1 dayish shipping ftw! :D

After that being installed I flashed the DME, took me a while to get set up and figure out the error messages. The flash was surprisingly fast (I have MS45.1 and used 7561520). I was expecting 20-45 mins, it was done in a few mins. I used WinKFP and used PA soft to reset adaptations. The car feels a bit faster but idk if I was suppose to put a different ZUSB number? Car runs great though but I feel like that was too fast to be a full flash. :eeps: I did put my cars Vin# where it asks for vin# in WinKFP if that makes a difference. :eek:

Drove the car into town today and feels great. However I went to get gas and the car didn't want to start again. Had to call my brother to jump my car :facepalm: I think I just need a new battery. I haven't changed it since owning my car and my alternator is fine since I'm reading 14v when the engine is running. After an hour of the car sitting the battery reads low 11v so it has to be a battery.

Will update when that's solved.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
New battery is in! I just got the EverStart H8 from Walmart, can't complain on the price and a 3-5 year warranty. :woot:

Driven the car with the new engine for 70 miles now. I know its a M54b30 motor but I don't feel much of a difference, yes the headers make the car louder but I don't feel that much more power on the low end, could this be because of the 325i diff? or just because its an auto? I driven my brothers 330i and I can feel the difference. Could it be the vanos seals are bad? I'll probably replace those anyways.

Anyways before I forget, since I'm done with the swap and no fluids are leaking (yet) I'm gonna make a list on what I've done to the engine maintenance wise:
-Oil change with 0w-40 mobil-1 euro blend
-Valve cover gasket
-Oil pan gasket
-Exhaust gaskets w/heat shield
-Lower exhaust gaskets
-Rear main seal
-Engine Mounts
-Spark plugs (NGK Platinum)
-Rear coolant temp sensor (did that as PM, my fathers 330i was giving him problems like false temp reading and high RPMs when cold and its a pain to replace when the intake manifold is on)
-Radiator :tsk:
-Water pump
-Thermostat
-upper and lower radiator hoses
-Coolant expansion tank
-Trans Oil Cooler Thermostat
-All heater hoses
(basically the whole water system except the Hard coolant lines)
-Air filter
-Trans filter & fluid
-Trans fill & fill plugs

The car is pretty sorted now. After Thanksgiving I'll start on putting my old motor in the "parts car", I want that done before Christmas break.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
500 mile road trip



Took the car out for a 500 mile road trip for thanksgiving and to my surprise no serious issues. The car drives great and I guess the car needed to drive a bit more to "relearn" itself.

The CEL is on, which I expect since I'm running catless headers but its only for the rear o2 sensors. ( I used 90 deg defoulers and guess they didn't work :dunno: )

On the subject on the Headers I like them but I don't really like the raspy noise after 3k rpm. I read that borla's cat back exhaust removes the rasp but I think I can live with it unless I see someone selling a used set :wink-wink:

The smell is another thing. I'm getting use to it but it smells like my 90s Chevy van. I would like to put sport cats just to remove the smell but again I can live with it.

Also, I do smell trans fluid when I roll the windows down to accelerate, but that's only moderately hard acceleration. Regular acceleration I don't smell anything, and I don't smell any when at idle, Hot or cold. I looked under the car and the trans oil pan is dry. Filler and drain plugs are dry. The trans oil cooler lines are dry. The bottom of the bell housing a little damp but that could be old fluid, will clean up and check later. The only thing I see with newish fluid leaking is the gear selector lever on the drivers side of the transmission :hmm: Its not too bad, I have left cardboard under the car every night ever since the swap and a its only a couple of drops that started a few days ago. I'm not too worried, the trans shifts just fine.

The Engine itself isn't leaking any oil and I don't see it burning oil too, its almost been 750 miles since the swap and my oil level is exactly where I left it.

With all that I'm happy to say the swap went better than I expected. I will attend to the leaks. If It turns out to be the toque converter I'll live with it, top off the fluid every few months. And if it blows well 6sp time! :str8pimpi

Plus this weekend I'll be starting the 01 325i 5sp "rebuild" Probably can get that done, or at least the engine in, by Sunday :thumbup:

More pictures to come!
 

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Nice work! Cool thread to read through!

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #27

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Awesome build! AR25 resonators will kill the rasp and they sound amazing. If you ever need any parts let me know, a good friend has a BMW junkyard and I can usually score parts cheap and Id be happy to help. Keep up the great work.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
Awesome build!
Thank you!


AR25 resonators will kill the rasp and they sound amazing.
I'll look into them, I'm kinda getting use to it but I would like a more "throaty" sound

If you ever need any parts let me know, a good friend has a BMW junkyard and I can usually score parts cheap and Id be happy to help. Keep up the great work.
Thanks I'll keep that in mind!
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Style 32s!

I got my hands on some Style 32s from a 3.0 z3! :D

Front: 7.5x17 et 41 w/ 225/45/17
Rear: 8.5x17 et 41 w/ 245/40/17

The fronts are in pretty good shape but the rear rims are pretty bad, gotta get them repainted but I got an awesome deal on them! The rear tires are brand new and the fronts are kinda dry rotted and they're dated 2011 :eek:



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=12HlzpQIEnSOr2NKLqTfVdSFpkcm1T3vN



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1esrsviphirwyo_04eSlGXixPB2Z-AEIJ



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1jEbD1PEQ1zZG8yzk7KR017glP9JNe43a



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1NdePQgDnbWXjEeMTiZuN8sRE8JbbE8ai



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1D0-vAkHrvUsn3tRA2SkI5rSYRUrwClFx

I just swapped over my older/newer tires from my old set of rims, so now they're all good now :clap:

They look absolutely gorgeous! I was on the fence on style 400m's and style 135s but this set popped up and I just had to get them, they were 140 miles away but it was that good of a deal I drove up there the next day. 50 miles on the new set and no problems yet!

Also, yes you can fit a full set in your back seats :thanks:



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1jR9ixd2ThmJty61GVXm_S_C6uxuqYsmy

I also manage to get, not just one but two, M3 steering wheels at the junk yard! :woot:



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=10S-V7zvY_vey_0GwZcnATbRRhQHdHAgz

Note: look out for e39s with sport packages mostly 530i, 540i and rarely 525i's from years 02 to 03. :shhh:



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1RCzSw5LmbP9NaqHHSiRRRMRmFQQ4xm3H

I put the nicer one into my car after cleaning it and somewhat restoring it with leather cleaning and a shoe shine kit.

The other one I'll keep as a spare and might install it into my parts/project car. when I get it running (I took a break and ordered parts to redo most oil gaskets on the 2.5 engine that's going into the "parts car")

Maintenance update:
-About 1200miles on the new engine and its running strong with no oil leaks and little to no oil burning :D
-I got the 4k rpm dip the other day, I guess I do have a zhp tune :lmao:
-Car is at 162k and will change to 163k by the end of the year ;)
-I tighten the nut/bolt that's holing the gear shiftier thing (pic below) and it limited the leak but something is still leaking trans fluid :tsk:

-Finally ordered the Passenger side "brake duct" cover. Gotta get it painted but I can do it myself.
-Gonna get the vanos seals done soon

More pics to come!
 

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Discussion Starter #31

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Well I took the valve cover off to confirm its a real zhp engine (If it wasn't I wouldn't mind since I got a great deal) and it looks perfect under there! :excited:
I read that there is something different inside the ZHP engine but could not find the precise info what it is. How do you distinguish the ZHP engine when looking at internals. Is it the camshaft?

On newer car the manual transmission only advantage is the fun factor because these change gears faster than human can ever do. What do you think about speed of changing gears on E46s trannys?
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
I read that there is something different inside the ZHP engine but could not find the precise info what it is. How do you distinguish the ZHP engine when looking at internals. Is it the camshaft?



On newer car the manual transmission only advantage is the fun factor because these change gears faster than human can ever do. What do you think about speed of changing gears on E46s trannys?
The only difference of a zhp engine and a regular 330i engine is the camshafts, and also the oilpump nut is red lock tight in. I read theres not really any way of knowing base on looking at the camshaft since I believe its the same part numbers but they modified them or something.

The only way to know if it's a zhp is to look at the I'd sticker at the back of the block. Mine was covered in old oil and when I cleaned it most of the lettering came off.

Only way I ID mine it was the gauge cluster and the fact that when I came to pick up the engine, the transmission was still attached, he was asking too much for it and didn't come with a driveshaft or diff to make it worth it, but I'm 99% sure it's a zhp engine

On the fun factor of an auto is pretty fun in manual mode, it changes gears pretty quickly but on first to second is lagged a bit after 4k rpm



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On newer car the manual transmission only advantage is the fun factor because these change gears faster than human can ever do. What do you think about speed of changing gears on E46s trannys?
I reread my question and I made a mistake in it. Sorry for not being clear but English is not my mother tongue. What I wanted to say was that manual trannsmission is fun to drive but automatic shifts faster. I was watching series when German professional race driver tested modern cars and when he did time laps with two identical cars of which one had manual and the second had automatic the automatic was always a bit faster and he mentioned that it was because the automatic tranny shifts faster then him (the racing driver!!!).
But when I have a look at E46 technical data sheet, 330i with manual does from 0 to 100km/h in 6,5 seconds while automatic does it in 7s which means it is ,5s slower than manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I reread my question and I made a mistake in it. Sorry for not being clear but English is not my mother tongue. What I wanted to say was that manual trannsmission is fun to drive but automatic shifts faster. I was watching series when German professional race driver tested modern cars and when he did time laps with two identical cars of which one had manual and the second had automatic the automatic was always a bit faster and he mentioned that it was because the automatic tranny shifts faster then him (the racing driver!!!).
But when I have a look at E46 technical data sheet, 330i with manual does from 0 to 100km/h in 6,5 seconds while automatic does it in 7s which means it is ,5s slower than manual.
No problem, these are almost 20 year old cars, I doubt that looking at those numbers will be relevant.

Manuals have more power than the autos

I believe searching will give you more information than I can



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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
Another month, another round of pics!


https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1HtI1S9LWj1iaUJS8wBTbj6pBqnnszn43


https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1Pqp2BbD1xDdpzfB2-uhpJtUTwJSWopsQ


https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1TPZDgacNu1VbXBK3ojAmbiTeG0yDyiKu


https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1T55cjnMDI9CR7i4T39CdUweLlAIRsrLF


https://drive.google.com/uc?id=13Z6oL7NV_s-8VuWfmgAs-2TAvjiyUsxh


https://drive.google.com/uc?id=19HbQYcwBEcVSpI6a9QOmcl7CZ5q5iwZE


https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1QRvS9joOFir97INbDyTSTzSU1EdqIUg3


https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1QZuojhiL1kGznP4Vuq8jceD0tIj8fg6u


https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1_bbJhDWQnxOK2ko1k1bmYi_L2j4OeMOn




Maintenance update and issues:

-Didn't drive her too much this pass month since I had a little issue with the radiator (again :tsk:)

-Since Aura was down for maintenance, I have been driving a 2008 E60 528i and I have to say, a very comfortable driver. She's no E46 but a nice car in the end. The Auto shift knob takes getting use to, interior is pretty cheap feeling tbh. I'm not a fan on the lack of dipstick and no temp gauge but I'm nitpicking at this point.

-Parts/project car is running under her own power for the past month! She's not registered so I have been driving her on the dirt road just learning to drive stick, very fun! :D

-After replacing the rad the yellow brake, ABS and Traction control lights came up and stayed on after restart for the whole day. Tried erasing the codes via PAsoft but no dice. It finally went away by just driving it some more, weird :confused:

-About 2000 miles on the new engine

-CEL is still on, Only Cat codes :rolleyes:


----Before I begin, to make a long story short, she's driving great for now. Looks like the issue was the radiator, it was defective.----


So, I've only drove her about 600 miles in the past month and a half and that's with going to Miami and back before new year's. The reason is that after I came back from Okeechobee, 60 miles away, I've noticed a lot of air that came out of the coolant system when I opened the cap the next morning. I always hear a hiss but this was a louder, longer hiss than usual, plus it's been over 12 hours so there shouldn't be any pressure. But I thought it was a one-time thing and thought I just didn't bleed the system correctly a month prior (this started before new year's). So, I re-bled the system and thought that was it.

A few days later I was off to Miami and came back. Went to check the water lever the next day and floosh air and some coolant came out!! I freaked out! I thought I broke something! I knew I never over-heated the engine and I never push the car pass 4500rpm! I bled the system again and a couple of days later drove to LaBelle and back (40 mile trip). Car still had pressure after it cooled down over night (like a soft pop and a hiss).

At that moment I feared the worse. I put Aura in sleep mode. Fearing I had purchased an engine with a cracked head or head gasket failure, I went and bought a block tester and did that first. To my surprised the liquid stayed blue! I did this 6 times, following the instructions, to make sure I wasn't mistaken, I even revved it a few times and nothing, color never changed. I never had any bubbles in coolant and coolant never smelled funny. No coolant in oil and the car drives perfectly But for safe measure I only drove her 10 miles once a week to move some oil around.



With that relief, I still feared I had a small crack in the Cylinder head, I only drove her in a 10 mile circle near my home, carefully, slow acceleration and no revs above 2500rpm. She still drives fine I just didn't know if I was gonna mess something up. Also, I was using test 19-7 to monitor the water temps, never went pass 97. The average was 95 and at cruise is 93 so I know the engine never overheated on my watch.


Logically since the engine passed the Block test, I went to get a new cap from the dealer (even though my old one was a few months old, since I figured that if it isn't the cap, I have 3 other cars the new cap can go into). Long story short wasn't the cap. and my brother now has a new cap!

(Also the cap never releases pressure on its own, no coolant sprayed out, never over pressurized to the point of blowing the cap, main reason why I thought it might be the cap since it never released pressure on its own)

Puzzled I feared I had to pull the head and do time-serts and all that. But I remembered I noticed that a row of fins on the Rad were compressed before I installed it a month before but didn't think too much of it at the time. I took a pic of it before I installed it just to have a recorded of it. I figured (again) that it's easier to replace that radiator and find out that was the problem than doing a cylinder head. Plus I bought it (defected one) from FCP so if it was the radiator I can get my money back, minus shipping And if it wasn't, welp I have 3 other cars that radiator can go in.

Old radiator I got back in Nov. 2019

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1oQVgARvQbKa6oLxiMcViCdkU5WP7vvKg

I replaced my radiator and drove it the 10 miles first (spirited mind you), waited for it to cooled down with the hood open. Felt the hoses, when warm it's hard (that's normal) after an hour or so they're starting to become squeezable and after 5 hours the car is nearly cold , open the cap and heard just a small hiss (with the old rad, I was getting more than a small hiss on a drive like this), the coolant was a little lower but I just topped it off since I just bled the system with the new rad.


The next day I decided to drive into town, then to the hangar and back home, about 40ish miles round trip, did the same procedure, open the cap the next morning and just a hiss, no pop, no over pressure and coolant is exactly where I left it! Looked under the car and no leaks! :woot:

Did this a second time and same results. Right now I'm at 98 miles on the new radiator. No pressure build up, no coolant lost and no oil loss!

I'm not 100% convinced that this fixed it, for all I know there's a small leak somewhere releasing the pressure over time when cold. However the system is pretty well sealed since I hear a hiss when I open it and when I open the cap when the temp outside has changed after its been open before. There's no coolant loss for the last 85 miles. Its just hard to believe that the radiator was the culprit but hell, the results don't lie right?

What I want to do is drive to Okeechobee and back and see if I get different results. I've already driven almost 100 miles with no issue and have been eyeing the temp like a hawk. For good measure I'm thinking of getting a leak down test done, and a compression test too. For the time being aura is an airport car (To only drive to the airport or just into town once in a while)

If anyone had a similar issue let me know cuz I'm still skeptical. :hmm:

-Update 1-

Drove her to Lake Placid (60ish miles away) and zero issues. Watched the temp closely the whole trip, cruise temp was dead at 93c and never got above 96c-97c for the entirety of the trip.

I'm over 250 miles on the new new radiator and looks like everything is working perfectly. Waited 5 hours for the engine to cool down before opening the cap and nothing but a quite hiss and coolant level is perfect! Right where I left it. :clap:

--Update 2--

Up to 733 miles and zero issues! :woot:

Been driving her regularly for the past week, drove her to Palm Beach (80 miles away) and Fort Myers (60ish miles away) a few times already and coolant temps have been consistent. With the cruise temp at 93-95, (Its a bit warmer outside than last week) and temp never got any higher than 98, when it hit that temp a second later the thermostat kicks in and temp drops to 95. Waited overnight after a trip to let her cooldown and the coolant level is exactly where I left it! Plus no over-pressurization! Just a quiet hiss letting me know the system is sealed. :thumbup:

---Update 3---

Over 1000 miles and no issues!
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Picture Update :D



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1GkQYWbKd-HnAnodcwjzGwbkTsWm68NVh



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1ZgdxtYZwdbtjFLS2RINC6nZyzlYqpRXx



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1FA-6hWIqf7Sse94q_XcceCVRl9IPSrHc



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1BcaAqBAloAwv1VpXjf6Q5EmgNrD2o4xK



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1zDI9DJ6ZxPXGYu4T8nhcR0SSdw0XmTh2



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1OT68W8SAFjkG7pMEFEpI21Ob3uruw4wF



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1m38B13QjAPPYn9AigjzSxk-lYgKd2LNp



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1ej3kvpuggfHJ6zc3AKaQ3UKSSM7fXXf3



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1gYLp_LNR12H64N7OXr-6rfVwHXnVbpnl



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1rnnLEFbHNC9YYoLCTiqHjg_BZ2VWMCFw



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=18gQ5NUTGRFYM2F_iV40-ZRhdBQl5dUOX



https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1EkG3cM5gfsqgblz1id35XjufoKG_N_bv

Monthly Maintenance Update:

- Almost 4k miles on the new engine
- Replaced fuel pump as PM and to see if that solved a starting issue (it did not) but the pump was old
- My power steering system is weeping a bit, probably from the one hose I haven't replaced on it and a boot is ripped.
- Been driving her regularly (No long trips like to Miami) without any serous problems other than the occasional starting issue when it cranks for a while and sometimes it starts but idles rough and no throttle response for a couple of seconds after start. No misfire codes but I have been getting lean codes a couple of weeks ago, maybe a bad maf? :hmm:
- I'm 1600 miles on the new Rad for the most part no overnight pressure in the coolant system, especially on short trips. However, once, and only once, on a longer trip to Fort Myers I drove around doing errands and came back. The coolant hoses felt a little harder than normal. The next day the hoses were softer but had some resistance, open the cap with a bag over it with a water bottle cap full of that Block tester fluid and nothing, stayed blue and the hiss wasn't that audible. :confused: The only thing I did differently on that trip was I accidentally went over 85mph to pass a RV. :shhh: I did that and maybe just starting the car like 8 times and driving the whole day? That was a week and a half ago. I've been driving her around in short drives until I trusted her again, I have started to gain her trust for the last couple hundred miles and problem hasn't come back. But I'm not gonna go down to Miami with her anytime soon, that's what the e60 is for :thumbup:
(btw I have been watching the temps this whole time with the average temp is 95c so no over heating)

After that I'm almost convinced that I have a cracked cylinder head but its so small and I caught it so early that its probably only on longer trips or when I go over a certain speed that its noticeable. Definitely not enough to blow the cap but I'm not about to test that out.

I wonder if I should just replace the head and get it over with, but I don't want to do timeserts on the block and risk messing up the block. The car still runs fine and I'm only really driving into town without a problem, hell I took it to palm beach the other day without a problem.

I will probably make a separate post on my situation when I get back from a trip next week (not taking aura obviously, shes strictly a going into town/airport car) I just wonder if the occasional starting issue is related to a cracked head? :eek:

I'll keep this thread up-to-date when ever I can , I hope it's not a cracked head but I'm starting to believe it. :(

--update--
Right off the bat at the time of writing this I bricked my MAF :banghead:
I went to the junkyard to try to see if a 135i, that showed up the day before, still had its brake calipers, it did not, in fact the the car was stripped, engine gone, front struts gone, rear gone and it only been in there for a literal day! So to make the trip worth it I search for a MAF. Couldn't fine one for my car but got the O-ring for it since mine was a loose fit and figured why not. Installed it today and it was a tight fit, too tight, my thumb push through the screen on the rear side of the housing and bent the black sensor a bit :ben:

Car started at least without hesitation but the Trans light is on and now I'm getting a maf code so RIP that Maf :(

Welp I ordered a used one off ebay, I'm gonna be gone for the weekend so at least It will arrive when I get back later in the week. Hopefully its not a dud

On the bright side I didn't want to waste that trip yesterday so I found a yellow tag steering rack from a 04 330i for dirt cheap from the junkyard, boots were dry and I had to rip them apart to pull the rack off and Its clean as a whistle in there. So I think its in good shape, My steering system is slowly leaking and a boot is ripped so I needed to do that job anyways, Upgrade time but hopefully this upgrade wont turn out like my last one :tsk:
 

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Darkstar, just read through your journal - very thorough work. Sub'd. I'm in the midst of a similar resurrection of a poorly cared fore vehicle (except I was the one who abandoned it a decade ago in a garage! Looking forward to future updates.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Darkstar, just read through your journal - very thorough work. Sub'd. I'm in the midst of a similar resurrection of a poorly cared for vehicle (except I was the one who abandoned it a decade ago in a garage! Looking forward to future updates.

Cheers
Thanks, and good luck on your refresh!

Quick update

Just got back from my trip yesterday. The new to me MAF was waiting for me and I installed it this morning. Now shes starts right up and driving again! No lean codes so far after 40sih miles, just cat codes and for some reason a P1515 code? :dunno: I reset the code and see if it comes back.
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)


Short Maintenance Update

Shes driving fine still, no lingering pressure in the coolant system and level is pretty much where it has been after bleeding it last time. No overheating, temp dead at 94-95c.

Oil level is normal too, no leaks but after 4k miles on the new engine I had to put in about 2 quarts so shes burning some oil.

The starting issue is unfortunately still there. So the maf didn't fix it but I needed one since I accidentally broke the old one. :tsk:

The P01515 code hasn't come back in 80ish miles I've put on her in the last week, nor has the lean codes :thumbup:

I'm not really driving her too much lately since of this whole virus scare is freaking everyone out and classes have been canceled because of it. I just drive her to town and back to do errands and short 10 mile trips around my area so she isn't sitting for more than a few days.

College classes have been postponed so I'm working on the parts car getting her back to 95%! Will probably start another build thread on it once I got the interior put back together or when I think I'm ready to write a whole new thread.

Everyone stay safe and stay healthy! And follow me on Instagram @darkstars325i to see more recent pics of Aura! (Shameless plug I know :shhh: )



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