BMW E46 Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 20 of 44 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,078 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm planning on giving my xi to my son's significant other before winter. She needs something good in the snow to get back and forth to school. Seeing as they won't be near by and my son is capable of doing this job but not something you'd to do in a parking lot in the winter. So it's hard heater pipe replacement time. Bought a few extras for those just in case possibilities. Still need some vacuum line and maybe an O-ring or two.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
E39 E90 E46 F10
Joined
·
4,977 Posts
Nice of you. Looks like a properly maintained E46 that will give them a long service life ahead.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26,217 Posts
...and if you're unfamiliar...something to clean the bores out well...like a wire test tube brush. An angle-driver sort of thing would help a lot for one of them.

Also, use rtv on the o-rings as you won't remove all the stuff you'll find built up in that bore presumably.

Maybe time to do injector o-rings...and have a magnetic tool handy for the injector clips. Figuring them out took me hours...one sec for my mechanic to show me...iirc unclip from one side with small bent pic sort of tool.

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
04 325XIT 05 325IT
Joined
·
518 Posts
I thought so too when I gave my Xi to my daughter in Durham,then her front Drivers caliper seized, had to pay a mechanic cause her wheels were hot ,then her passenger's side went. NOW all that sorted, her rear passenger window regulator gave out,....never ends
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
504 Posts
Yeah, better to send off a Camry or Accord if you want to sleep well at night!
 
  • Like
Reactions: MadJapSDCA

·
Premium Member
2003 330cic, 2003 325iT
Joined
·
4,428 Posts
The picture looks like it is very comprehensive, but here is a guide I wrote on intake refresh if you want a cross-reference.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,078 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The picture looks like it is very comprehensive, but here is a guide I wrote on intake refresh if you want a cross-reference.

I did glance through your refresh guide. I've spent lot's of time doing repairs on this car, that's why my son isn't concerned about her driving this over her newer Nissan. The major repairs have been done along with plenty of minor issues. Axles, brakes, starter, the rest of the cooling system short of the radiator, both front window regulators, M56 VC and gaskets. I should have done the Vanos seals, maybe when they come home for a weekend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,078 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
The repair was unsuccessful, I have a leak. The return pipe is leaking at the water pump housing. So I'll take it apart again and try polishing the bore and probably put some RTV in too, should have listened to Dmax. This time I'll pressure test before the intake goes back on. Some pics.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,029 Posts
Sorry to hear...This is happening with increasing frequency...Ar you using good quality pipes and o-rings ?
OEM or Rein?

I clean it with a plumbers wire brush used to clean inside of copper pipes and a few light passes from a dremel equipped with a small round wire brush.

I've done 6-7 sets of coolant pipes in the last 18 months. several of the early ones had leaks, mostly due to a rolled-over o-ring on the pipe.

I now pressure test before reinstalling intake with all cooling pipes, water pump and a special, gutted thermostat housing i have installed. I fill with distilled water, apply 15 psi to the bleeder screw (air fitting adapter) and look for leaks in the area you mentioned. Works great, and has saved me a couple of times. It's very easy to roll an o-ring...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,103 Posts
On the block and head, I would not use wire brush to clean the holes for fear of leaving scratch lines then leak. I used Scottbright and take time to clean smooth the holes for the o-ring to form a good seal. No RTV were used here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,078 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I used Rein pipes, I've always had good luck with their products, and used a Scotch-brite pad to clean the bores, apparently not clean enough. We put silicon spray on the O-rings and that pipe slid right in and seemed to bottom out. All the bolt holes lined up. I'm going to try and find something to to use with my Dremel, maybe a polishing attachment. We did use a soldering gun to melt the broken pieces to get them out.
 

·
Registered
E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
Joined
·
1,956 Posts
FWIW Rein products are verboten around here and most independent shops. In a nutshell, they suck.
I'm rather surprised you've had luck with them so far.

If I were stuck on the side of the road away from home I might use a Rein part....? Albeit it would get replaced as soon as I got back home.
 

·
Registered
2001 330xi
Joined
·
714 Posts
Sorry to hear...This is happening with increasing frequency...Ar you using good quality pipes and o-rings ?
OEM or Rein?

I clean it with a plumbers wire brush used to clean inside of copper pipes and a few light passes from a dremel equipped with a small round wire brush.

I've done 6-7 sets of coolant pipes in the last 18 months. several of the early ones had leaks, mostly due to a rolled-over o-ring on the pipe.

I now pressure test before reinstalling intake with all cooling pipes, water pump and a special, gutted thermostat housing i have installed. I fill with distilled water, apply 15 psi to the bleeder screw (air fitting adapter) and look for leaks in the area you mentioned. Works great, and has saved me a couple of times. It's very easy to roll an o-ring...
Good advice, thanks. Questions; 1) Would this work with just my already installed thermostat housing, and 2) can you please describe your pressure test setup (best with a link to the adapter you are using)/
Thanks,
-fana
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,029 Posts
No, you should not gut your new thermostat. I used an old thermostat, I pulled the thermostat out of the housing - leave the probe in - and made sure it had a good gasket.

The bleed screw has a M10 x 1.0 thread. My air fitting is male 1/4" NPT threaded. So I bought an adapter like this one: Pipe 1/4" NPT female to M10 M10X1 male Metric Adapter Fitting Oil Pressure N-KA Pipe 1/4" NPT female to M10 M10X1 male Metric Adapter Fitting Oil Pressure N-KA | eBay

I then get my compressor to 15 psi, absolutely no more than 20 psi and attach it to the quick connect screwed into my bleed screw hole.

A easier way of pressurizing is to borrow a cooling system pressure tester from Autozone or similar, under their free loaner program. It will include a cap that fits over the expansion tank and a pressure pump.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,078 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I built my own pressure tester out of a short piece of silicone hose, hose clamps and a PVC plug that I drilled and tapped to 1/8-27 NPT. Added compression fittings and plastic tubing and connected an old air blow gun. I wrap an old nitrile glove around the ET filler neck to take up the slack where the notch in the threads are. With the line pressure reduced I can give the system short burst of air and watch for leaks. Used it again this AM with a complete thermostat and it still leaked. Apparently the e46 repair fairies didn't show up last night to make repairs. 😞😞
 
1 - 20 of 44 Posts
Top