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Discussion Starter #143
Thanks guys!

Zander, yup, still stock suspension, 137k miles strong! Poly FCAB and RTAB and sway bushings though. I might be a year or two away from doing springs/struts, probably an adjustable coilover like PSS10 so I can still keep it real civil for the street but stiffen it up for track days.
 

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Thanks guys!

Zander, yup, still stock suspension, 137k miles strong! Poly FCAB and RTAB and sway bushings though. I might be a year or two away from doing springs/struts, probably an adjustable coilover like PSS10 so I can still keep it real civil for the street but stiffen it up for track days.
Rob doesn't frequent the boards anymore but I could put you touch with him if you wanted something better than the PSS10 that will cost less $$. With all that power you need something that will allow you to carry more speed in the corners.
 

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Discussion Starter #145
FINALLY. SOLVED IT.

Here's how my throttle worked before, using the tune asbjorn @ ESS gave me:



They couldn't fix it.

Now, with support and tooling from Frank Smith and Hassmachine, I have a proper tune for the MS45.1



Car is sooo nice and smooth now. Idles are OEM perfect. Fueling is spot on all through the RPMs. Timing is good. Driving around town is a ton of fun. And "spirited" driving is controllable, predictable, and a true pleasure.

I can't wait for the next track day on October

HUGE thanks to Frank Smith and Hassmachine for all their time and support to get this tuned "the right way".
 

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About time! I'm so glad you fixed the issue. Your car will be more of a beast now on track. Nice!
 

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Discussion Starter #147

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Wow! Could you please share what tables did you tune and what values did you set?
 

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Discussion Starter #149
Wow! Could you please share what tables did you tune and what values did you set?
The MS45.1 has over 2500 parameters. I modified about 40 in total.

There's the basics like c_ti_as, c_ti_min, c_ti_add_dly for injector scaling (I'm running 42lb bosch green giant injectors) and dead time values, along with ip_lamb_fl__n for full load fueling. And ip_iga_bas_ron_91__n__maf, ip_iga_bas_ron_98__n__maf for timing.

The key to the throttle issue was adjusting the intake manifold model and the torque reference tables. There's two issues at play. First there's a function that when the DME detects about 95% of what it expects is the maximum airflow through the MAF ("pressure quotient") it will go FULL wide open throttle. Additionally, even if you were to disable the full throttle function there is a "safety" function that restricts the throttle from opening further when the car thinks it is generating the maximum torque based on the torque reference tables. Both of those things have to be resolved for the throttle to operate like it did in NA form.
 

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Discussion Starter #150
Replaced wheel bearings today. Figured it was time at 140,xxx miles.



Car is running so good. Cool air is coming in, the twin screws LOVE the cooler air
 

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Discussion Starter #151 (Edited)
A couple weeks ago I noticed my clutch was starting to slip on cold days in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear. Crap. With the Gingerman HPDE coming up, I didn't want that ruining the weekend I've been waiting all summer for! So I got busy right away ordering parts and working logistics.

I chose to stick with the dual mass flywheel because I dont want clutch chatter at idle. I put a lightweight flywheel in my previous car and it was embarrassing at idle, and the BMW is too refined for that. That meant I had literally 3 options for clutches. Stock, Sachs Performance, or Spec. I daily drive this car, so I need good drivability, I just need it to hold more power. I chose to give the Sachs Performance clutch a try, in the organic flavor.



Also, I've been dealing with 2nd gear popping out of gear occasionally for quite a while now, so with the trans coming out for the clutch job, I chose to get that replaced too. I found a used unit with 112k on the clock from LKQ. When we drained the fluid it was golden yellow, so I think I got lucky and got a really good trans to replace my 140k unit.

And then, "while I'm in there...", I ordered guibo flex disc, center support bearing, rear main seal, and throw-out bearing. Plus, installed M3 transmission mounts, completely rebuilt the shifter linkage and bushings with Turner's upgraded polyurethane shifter arm bushing kit, and installed the ECS Tuning brass clutch fork pivot pin

Lined up a shop in Southfield, great guys, and they got to work this last week.

Out came the old clutch and flywheel and pressure plate.







I was surprised, with 140k on the clock the clutch had what appears to be a lot of life left. I think it probably wasn't all that worn, but just couldn't handle the power I'm creating. The dual-mass flywheel I think was definitely done, because now that I have the new dual mass installed I no longer have any "jerk" or "bounce" when cruising steadily with slight on off throttle in 1st and 2nd gear.

Fresh bushings and linkages for the shifter, including Turner polyurethane shifter arm bushing:



The Sachs Performance clutch kit definitely has a heavier pedal feel. It took me a bit to get used to it. But the clutch engagement is very much like stock, you can slip it easily during engagement for smooth takeoff, but if you need to drop it, it will grab very nicely.

The shifter is OMG. Click, click, click into gears. Its awesome. So precise. No slop. I even replaced the shifter bushing, the white plastic peice, the usual suspect for sloppy shifters, back when I installed the BMW Performance short throw shifter about 50k miles ago, so I thought it would still be good. I think its a combination of all the shifter linkage components included in the "rebuild kit" from Turner, plus the poly shifter arm bushing, that results in such a great shifting experience.

The M3 trans mounts do seem to introduce a slight touch more NVH that I slightly notice at lower RPM's (around 1500 or so).

Overall I'm very pleased. I wish the pedal was a little lighter, but I'm not complaining, I think its just the nature of the beast. If you need more clamping force, you're going to get a heavier pedal. The engagement, shifting, driving, is just so nice. And 2nd gear doesn't pop out on me anymore either :) Mission accomplished, I'm ready for gingerman!

But that's not all.

If you've been following then you know that last year I bought a used Borla cat-back to test out and see if it quieted down the car some on long highway cruises. I loved the Magnaflow cat-back, it sounded awesome under full throttle, but was a little loud for me while cruising. So I bought a used Borla cat-back and had it welded up, but, the weld job was ugly. I lost a lot more power than I expected, and ever since then I've been wondering of those welds were boogered up inside the pipe causing excess restrictions. And since I fell in love with the sound of the Borla, I decided to buy a new one. And yesterday, I installed it







And I'm off to the dyno on Friday to get a fresh baseline. Hopefully I gained a few HP back. At least it looks pretty.

And then lastly, I scored a good deal on a set of Alzor style 040's. I had them wrapped in Michelin Pilot Sport 4s tires.



These have a nice offset to them so I wont' have to be installing/uninstalling the wheel spacers each time I swap on the track wheels/tires. And they are a few pounds lighter than the stock style 135's too. I really like the look





The Michelin PS4s do not disappoint. They are every bit as good as the old PSS they replaced, and they grip noticeably better in the wet too. I cannot come up with a single criticism, these tires are awesome.

Between the wheel bearings, the new wheels and tires, the trans, shifter, and clutch job, the car feels AMAZING to drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #153 (Edited)
how was the trans swap? in time? basically what I'll be doing soon..

Great job as always. I love this build
Thanks Yoits, I had a shop do the trans swap for me. They've done this a few times so it didn't take them long. I think they had it out in like 2-3 hours. I added some time for the "add-ons", like CSB, flex disk, drive shaft bushings, clutch pivot pin, etc. and that added a couple hours. I think all said and done, including the add-ons, it was about 9 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #154
Well, this happened



I guess track day just wasn't in the cards. Overcame hell and high water, but with 2 days to go, and after the clutch job, I had a misfire occurring above 6k RPM on heavy load. And there wasn't time to fix it before the event. So instead of racing, I tore down the car.

At first I felt it was my intercooler leaking at the manifold, because the #6 spark plug looked white, as if it was possibly coolant. And, when I first received this supercharger kit from ESS it leaked at that exact spot and caused similar symptoms.

So I pulled the manifold (ugg!!), and was about to pull it all apart when I did a pressure test to confirm there was a leak to begin with.



It held 11psi for several hours, zero leaks.

So now my theory is a bad fuel injector, or it could have been as simple as a loose electrical connection at the injector connector. Both of which could have happened due to movement during the clutch job, and both of which could have been solved without pulling the manifold. Oh well, such is life.

While I've been in here, and while I wait for a fresh manifold gasket to arrive from overseas, I swapped out the intake manifold studs for something that I think is stronger, and 10mm shorter (trust me, you want every millimeter you can get of clearance when removing or installing this manifold!).



Car is ready to go back together as soon as the gasket arrives for the manifold



And here she sits, all dressed up for the race, but with no place to go :(

 

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Discussion Starter #156 (Edited)
So you still don't know exactly what's wrong?
I'm pretty confident its something with that #6 injector at this point.

* I've ruled out spark - Swapped coil between cyl 1 and 6, no change. Also installed 6 new spark plugs, no change.
* I've ruled out leaking manifold - pressure tested good.
* I don't think its head gasket - I ONLY get the misfire >6k RPM on cyl 6, if it was a head gasket issue I'd expect a misfire under a wide range of conditions, the first of which would be highest load/torque at around 4-5k RPM, but I can romp on it and its fine there.

So that only leaves fuel. That cylinder goes full lean at that exact time as the misfire code pops, which is either because the DME is turning off fuel, or the injector stopped working and thus created the misfire.

Cyl 6 (and its wiring harness) is right next to the firewall, and I just had a clutch job done, and the method of removing the trans involved tilting the motor up against the firewall... I'm starting to think the connector probably got jarred loose, or something to that effect.

I dont have any other ideas.

Only thing left to do is put it back together, swap out that injector for good measure, do a compression test for good measure, double check the injector connections to make sure they are nice and secure, and then give it a test drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #158
Not very good.

I reinstalled the manifold, and replaced #6 injector, and still get a misfire on cyl 6 above 6k RPM under full load. And it doesnt always happen, but when it does happen its full throttle, >6k RPM, and 3rd or 4th gear.

So far I've:
* replaced spark plugs
* swapped coils between cyl 6 and 1
* replaced cyl 6 fuel injector
* reseated fuel injector wiring harness and inspected connectors
* removed supercharger manifold and pressure tested to ensure no leaking coolant

Car idles and drives around flawlessly.

This only started happening after the clutch job

Also after the clutch job there is more vibration in the car, but I wrote that off due to installing M3 trans mounts

I'm really scratching my head.

I know I need to do a compression test, but if it was a head gasket it sure seems like I'd get misfires all the time. But I drove the car around town all day today, moderately aggressively, and had not a single misfire until on the way home I did a series of WOT pulls.

So assuming compression test comes back good, that leaves me with what, a failing crankshaft sensor maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter #160 (Edited)
Not sure.

Compression test results:
Cyl 1 - 210psi
Cyl 2 - 211psi
Cyl 3 - 211psi
Cyl 4 - 210psi
Cyl 5 - 209psi
Cyl 6 - 211psi

I'm pretty stumped on this one, so I created a thread in general to seek out some advice: https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1242691
 
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