Joined
·
52 Posts
PROBLEM:
I'm always listening to music or podcasts when I drive. I use my iPhone 5, but there's never really been a good, convenient, affordable solution to this. Bluetooth's theoretically perfect, but the sound quality's never been up to my standards. Auxiliary sounds great, but you lose any and all steering wheel integration. USB interfaces with the wheel and sounds the best, but nobody really likes this:
A solution does exist for this: spec.dock It solves the problem beautifully... for $184.00. There had to be a better answer.
...meet ELEGANT DIY SOLUTION:
I started looking for places within the car to route a hidden USB cable to connect to my Mediabridge. The end connector needed to be easily accessible to quickly connect my iPhone when getting in & out the car, and reasonably secure to protect my phone. To my delight, the inside of the armrest was (almost suspiciously) perfect! It was rubberized, secure, convenient, and the perfect size:
With only a little bit of cutting, the result is a flawless, solid, almost OEM-looking iPhone dock inside your armrest:
This DIY is EXTREMELY forgiving. I was very worried when I began that I'd make a mess of the armrest interior. But the construction is such that the rubber lining covers up any & all drilling imperfections, and also puts plenty of tension to hold the connector rock-solid. "Perfect every time." The only other external cut you'll make is invisible after reassembly.
If you've ever considered a spec.dock, are in any way disappointed by Bluetooth, or you're just sick of putting your $600 phone in a cupholder: consider this DIY. I've been driving with it for about 6 weeks, and it frankly feels as natural as anything you'd pay BMW to install.
TOOLS:
COMPATIBILITY:
FINAL NOTES:
Let's get started!
Start in the backseat. Open the rear ashtray cover and pull out the ashtray and insert.
Under the ashtray you will find two plastic screws and grommets. Lightly unscrew these. There's not much holding them in.
With the screws out you'll be able to remove the entire roller assembly. Pull out the cable on the right-hand side to fully remove
Unscrew the two metal screws under the roller assembly
You'll now be able to remove the entire rear trim assembly, revealing the armrest springs on the side. Route the ashtray cable out the side of the assembly to fully remove
The rear of the armrest should resemble this
Make your way to the front seats. Remove whichever insert you have from the center console. The cup holder/coin tray removes as shown
Move forward. You now have to remove the shifter boot. There are a few options:
Manual transmissions: I believe you simply pry up the leather boot around the gear lever.
Steptronic transmissions: I believe you have to pry up the panel around the leather boot
Older, non-step autos (like me): You'll need to remove the shifter handle to remove the shifter plate. The procedure is simple: grab the handle and pull like hell (pictured). Advice:
Automatic transmissions: pry the shifter cover up with a screwdriver
Regardless of transmission, you'll end up with a view similar to this. (Automatics: feel free to put the lever back in and shift back into park.)
All that for these two screws. Remove them.
Remove the parking brake boot. Put your fingers under the edge and pry up. Extend it as far up as you can.
Now you can remove the entire center console. Grab the sides and pull it straight back a few inches.
My 15-year old plastic hasn't held up very well.
Last step for this is to remove the door lock/hazard switch. Pop it up from underneath and unplug the cable.
Remove the entire center console assembly up and through the parking brake. The more you engage the lever the easier it is to remove. Be sure the ashtray cable n te rear does not catch.
Put it in a safe place.
Be careful of these clips under the rear ashtray. They're needed for reassembly, but mine had long-since split in half. Keep track of them.
Back in the front: move/tilt the seats back to reveal two springs (either side). Twist them slightly with your pliers to remove. (Don't worry. They're VERY easy to put back in)
One of the springs
With the springs removed, using your finger, pull out the the two plugs from either side. (Note the easily misplaced rear-ashtray clips and rear ashtray cable at the top of the image)
The armrest cover can now be removed
Tilt the armrest straight up and unclip this trim piece
Tilt the armrest back down and remove these two trim pieces (either side). My 15-year old plastic again didn't hold up and these almost fell off. Yours will probably need to be unclipped.
Pull the armrest out. I put these two plastic covers back in for safekeeping. Let's move inside.
I'm always listening to music or podcasts when I drive. I use my iPhone 5, but there's never really been a good, convenient, affordable solution to this. Bluetooth's theoretically perfect, but the sound quality's never been up to my standards. Auxiliary sounds great, but you lose any and all steering wheel integration. USB interfaces with the wheel and sounds the best, but nobody really likes this:

A solution does exist for this: spec.dock It solves the problem beautifully... for $184.00. There had to be a better answer.
...meet ELEGANT DIY SOLUTION:
I started looking for places within the car to route a hidden USB cable to connect to my Mediabridge. The end connector needed to be easily accessible to quickly connect my iPhone when getting in & out the car, and reasonably secure to protect my phone. To my delight, the inside of the armrest was (almost suspiciously) perfect! It was rubberized, secure, convenient, and the perfect size:

With only a little bit of cutting, the result is a flawless, solid, almost OEM-looking iPhone dock inside your armrest:

This DIY is EXTREMELY forgiving. I was very worried when I began that I'd make a mess of the armrest interior. But the construction is such that the rubber lining covers up any & all drilling imperfections, and also puts plenty of tension to hold the connector rock-solid. "Perfect every time." The only other external cut you'll make is invisible after reassembly.
If you've ever considered a spec.dock, are in any way disappointed by Bluetooth, or you're just sick of putting your $600 phone in a cupholder: consider this DIY. I've been driving with it for about 6 weeks, and it frankly feels as natural as anything you'd pay BMW to install.

TOOLS:
- A cable for your phone, to live inside the car*
- Flat-head and phillips-head screwdrivers
- Drill and a smallish drill bit (3/16-3/8-inch). The exact size doesn't matter too much, as you'll find out
- A large pair of pliers
- X-Acto knife, small saw, steak knife, machete: anything to cut thin plastic. There's some thin internal plastic ribbing in the arm rest. You'll need to make a ~1-inch long cut into it for cable clearance. You won't see this surgery at all, so don't worry about making it pretty
- Optional: an awl for poking
- A few hours/a lazy Sunday
COMPATIBILITY:
- I did this procedure with my iPhone 5, but it should work fine with any Lightning connector-based iPhone or iPod (including: iPhone 5s, iPhone 5c, 5th gen. iPod touch).
- Older, 30-pin connector iPhones/iPods will NOT work. I don't even think there'd be enough room inside the armrest tray (you'd have to drill out 4x the amount of plastic). You may get it to work, but I do not recommend it.
- Android phones: maybe. Lots of these phones physically won't even fit inside the armrest. The small, smooth, symmetrical Apple Lightning connector makes for a firm hold with very little drilling, whereas microUSB connectors are all over the place. You might get it to work, but good luck.
FINAL NOTES:
- Though it looks 100% clean, this is still a destructive mod. The two affected pieces can be repurchased online for as little as $30.
- Some people are still upset about Apple switching from the legacy 30-pin to Lightning. I'll argue to anyone that this was a good thing, but rest assured that Lightning is very good, and was a long-term investment for Apple will probably outlast you driving your E46.
- Cop-out: My 1999 328i is an original run E46 (built Nov 1998, 15 years old!). It's been around for a while, but I've only had it a year. Lots of the faux-leather covering on the plastic had come off when I got it, and there were plenty of scratches. Forgive me, I did not do it.
Let's get started!

Start in the backseat. Open the rear ashtray cover and pull out the ashtray and insert.

Under the ashtray you will find two plastic screws and grommets. Lightly unscrew these. There's not much holding them in.

With the screws out you'll be able to remove the entire roller assembly. Pull out the cable on the right-hand side to fully remove

Unscrew the two metal screws under the roller assembly

You'll now be able to remove the entire rear trim assembly, revealing the armrest springs on the side. Route the ashtray cable out the side of the assembly to fully remove

The rear of the armrest should resemble this

Make your way to the front seats. Remove whichever insert you have from the center console. The cup holder/coin tray removes as shown

Move forward. You now have to remove the shifter boot. There are a few options:
Manual transmissions: I believe you simply pry up the leather boot around the gear lever.
Steptronic transmissions: I believe you have to pry up the panel around the leather boot
Older, non-step autos (like me): You'll need to remove the shifter handle to remove the shifter plate. The procedure is simple: grab the handle and pull like hell (pictured). Advice:
- You don't have to hold the shifter button
- It helps to straddle the lever and pull with both hands
- Sometimes they're REALLY STUCK. Pull harder
- Put the transmission in neutral for a better angle (Put the parking brake on!!)
- You'll likely hit the rearview mirror, and your chin

Automatic transmissions: pry the shifter cover up with a screwdriver

Regardless of transmission, you'll end up with a view similar to this. (Automatics: feel free to put the lever back in and shift back into park.)

All that for these two screws. Remove them.

Remove the parking brake boot. Put your fingers under the edge and pry up. Extend it as far up as you can.

Now you can remove the entire center console. Grab the sides and pull it straight back a few inches.

My 15-year old plastic hasn't held up very well.

Last step for this is to remove the door lock/hazard switch. Pop it up from underneath and unplug the cable.

Remove the entire center console assembly up and through the parking brake. The more you engage the lever the easier it is to remove. Be sure the ashtray cable n te rear does not catch.

Put it in a safe place.

Be careful of these clips under the rear ashtray. They're needed for reassembly, but mine had long-since split in half. Keep track of them.

Back in the front: move/tilt the seats back to reveal two springs (either side). Twist them slightly with your pliers to remove. (Don't worry. They're VERY easy to put back in)

One of the springs

With the springs removed, using your finger, pull out the the two plugs from either side. (Note the easily misplaced rear-ashtray clips and rear ashtray cable at the top of the image)

The armrest cover can now be removed

Tilt the armrest straight up and unclip this trim piece

Tilt the armrest back down and remove these two trim pieces (either side). My 15-year old plastic again didn't hold up and these almost fell off. Yours will probably need to be unclipped.

Pull the armrest out. I put these two plastic covers back in for safekeeping. Let's move inside.