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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
yeah old post but exactly my current problem.. the buzzing does sound electrical. i am going to unplug the disa and see if it goes away. i tried swapping disa but same buzzing with the key in position 2. as several have indicated, it will probably be the ICV.
please help .. i was trying to solve this buzzing sound and created a much bigger problem. i cleaned and replaced the ICV (13411744713). but after replacing the ICV, the engine misfires and makes a loud clack sound. see the diagnostic reports and video below.


i don't think the ICV is the problem, because i swapped both DISA and ICV with the same model car and the other car runs fine. maybe i damaged something else in the reinstall? i reseated the ICV in the rubber tube and problem persists.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
misfire all cylinders, system too lean after cleaning ICV

yeah i saw that video from nathan. also there’s a good video from bimmer zeit. i used brake cleaner.

like i said the ICV is good. i moved it to the other car and the other car runs fine. i swapped the DISA also. so i must have broken something in the process. any suggestions based on too lean?
 

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Here is another one

You may have damaged (Hoses, Boots or MAF sensor) or left something disconnected electrical (double check)
Working upon that particular area of an older bmw is delicate. Plastic hoses and connectors becomes brittle or weak. I found once again I found it is best to protect that plastic area with 'Armour All' in the same way you would protect metal parts with oil (keep it clean and free of various chemical leaks)

Also delete codes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3encrkBsss0
 

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please help .. i was trying to solve this buzzing sound and created a much bigger problem. i cleaned and replaced the ICV (13411744713). but after replacing the ICV, the engine misfires and makes a loud clack sound. see the diagnostic reports and video below.


i don't think the ICV is the problem, because i swapped both DISA and ICV with the same model car and the other car runs fine. maybe i damaged something else in the reinstall? i reseated the ICV in the rubber tube and problem persists.
A couple of possible issues.

The grommet that the ICV is pressed into. You can sometimes push that too deeply into the manifold if you are not careful thus allowing air to enter in huge amounts. You can't actually see what you are doing when you are pushing teh ICV into that grommet so you need to use a mirror to make sure it is seated properly. A little bit of grease on the ICV helps.

The bottom intake hose that fits over the throttle body and the ICV port can crack in between the rubber ports. Need to check that. It can also be a bit of a struggle mounting the lower boot onto the throttle body and it is easy for the boot to slip off on the underside while you are tightening up the large jubilee. That's always a bitch. If it's not fully clamped it is possible to dislodge it when you are putting the top hose and air filter back on. I have even haad it come off when driving. Again a mirror and light comes in handy. An endoscope even better.

There is an F connector sticking out of the top of the upper intake hose. The hoses that attach to that can crack so need to check that. The F connector itself can crack too.

But do a smoke test first and see if ther are any obvious leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
But do a smoke test first and see if ther are any obvious leaks.
good advice, thanks. nothing wrong my my replacements (disa, icv, evap purge valve). smoke tested and found massive leaks from CCV hoses and a cap in the back of the intake.

the joy of working on an older car. you replace A, and then B & C fail at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
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