BMW E46 Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

The shifter in my e46 M3 6MT with ~130k miles has been quite loose ever since I bought it at 100k miles. It's just general slop –*no specific direction, just loose overall. I really noticed it after driving some stock manual bimmers with tight shifters. Any ideas on what parts to replace that could help tighten up the shifter the most? All suggestions appreciated. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Do the rebuild. I have the same issue but only replaced the top end including the cup and it did not fix the issue.


Sent from my iPhone using E46Fanatics
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the help...I think I will go with the rebuild. How hard of a job is this if anyone has done it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
381 Posts
If your tranny is off the car then easy, otherwise there are parts that are very tight in there in terms of space to work.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,361 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Job is not too hard. I rebuilt the top end but did not fix the problem, have to fix the bottom end.


Sent from my iPhone using E46Fanatics
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,361 Posts
What do you classify as top end vs bottom end on the shifter?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Sounds like he means the parts included in the kit I linked. The shift rod joint is the main piece that will tighten up the slop. The carrier bushings where the shift carrier connects to the trans is another one that flexes as well as the joint at the rear of the carrier, its just aft of the hole in the floor where the shifter is. All of those are “under” the car and thus probably what could be called “lower”.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
381 Posts
Sounds like he means the parts included in the kit I linked. The shift rod joint is the main piece that will tighten up the slop. The carrier bushings where the shift carrier connects to the trans is another one that flexes as well as the joint at the rear of the carrier, its just aft of the hole in the floor where the shifter is. All of those are “under” the car and thus probably what could be called “lower”.
But what is top end? Shifter knob?

I don't really like that kit as it forces you to buy parts that don't wear and don't need replacement, but it can be used as a guide. You won't need new clips or dowel pins. What wears out in the shift rod joint is the foam piece which is like $3 (item # 14 in realoem link below) vs buying the entire shift rod joint for no reason for $25.

From realoem diagram, you need to buy part numbers 7, 2, 10, 14, 4. (All in the correct quantities, obviously).

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=bl93-USA---E46-BMW-M3&diagId=25_0375

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
By top end I mean everything you cAn get to from inside the car which is about half the process. The lower end is under the car work like connection to trans.


Sent from my iPhone using E46Fanatics
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
not a easy job.
I removed the exhaust to get more room.
you need to replace the washers or add more washers to all the joints on the shifters.
add as much washers as you can to get the shifter tight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
442 Posts
The "bearing pin" shown in the left of the picture was the hardest part for me. The ring on the shift rod joint wasn't too terrible, and the shifter arm bushing was easy after I figured out the right place to pry without bending the bracket on the body.

But this stuff is all above the trans, so I was working on my back hugging the trans. That clip on the bearing pin was very tight, and there is little room to get any leverage on it. I have to do at least one more of these soon and I am hoping to not struggle so much with that pin this time.

It made an unbelievable difference. You need to do all the parts. I went with the OEM parts so as not to increase NVH.

Good luck.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top