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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sh!t. Yup that's what is going through my brain right now.

Just got a quote for my type II inspection of 2935.65 and my rear bearings need replaceing (I can hear them at low speeds) at 1825.00. My car has 112,000 miles on it. I LOVE IT, she is a beauty. However at 5,000 (with new tires purchased) I would end up spending 1/3 of the blue book value JUST THIS YEAR. This thing is turning into a monster money pit. I either find a way to cut down this price or it's time to let her go...

How hard is it to do this stuff yourself?


Thoughts?
 

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You should shop around at some indy shops for I2 at least..that price is stupidly high. I just had I2 done w/ valve adjustment for 1k flat. RTABs commonly go bad before 110k so it's not surprising you need those replaced, but that price is high as well. Look up what you can DIY, get handy, and this car really isn't that bad.
 

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Complete and utter waste of money. The dealer quoted me $2800 for Inspect 2 and I had them send over the inspection check list. I'd say there is probably only $200 worth of actual "value added" work being performed. Over 90% of the "Inspection" can probably be done by yourself.

Undercarriage:

***8226; Change engine oil and filter while engine is at normal operation temperature
***8226; Check transmission for leaks
***8226; Check rear axle for leaks
***8226; Visually check fuel tank, lines and connections for leaks
***8226; Check condition, position, and mounting of exhaust system; examine for leaks
***8226; Check power steering system for leaks
***8226; Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads
***8226; Examine brake disc surfaces
***8226; Clean brake pad contact point in calipers
***8226; Grease wheel center hubs
***8226; Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage, and joint disc
***8226; Check front control arm bushing for wear
***8226; Check brake and clutch system connectors and lines for leaks, damage and incorrect positioning
***8226; Check for free movement of the parking brake cables; adjust parking brake if necessary
***8226; Check all tire pressures (including spare); correct if necessary
***8226; Check condition of tires (outer surfaces (left/right), tread wear and pattern; in case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if required
***8226; Check thickness of parking brake linings
***8226; Half-shafts; check for leaks at flexible boots
***8226; Inspect entire body according to terms of rust prevention limited warranty

Engine Compartment:

***8226; Read out diagnosis system
***8226; Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks
***8226; Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary
***8226; Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir; add fluid if required
***8226; Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection fill up and /or correct if necessary
***8226; Check air conditioner for operation
***8226; Reset Service indicator
***8226; Replace spark plugs (as applicable by year and model)
***8226; Replace intake air cleaner element

Body/Electrical Equipment:

***8226; Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required
***8226; Perform battery load test
***8226; Check lighting system, i.e. headlights, fog lights, parking, backup, license, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated makeup mirrors, luggage compartment lights
***8226; Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination
***8226; Check all warning/indicator lights, check control
***8226; Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch
***8226; Check wiper and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions
***8226; Check condition and function of safety belts
***8226; Oil hood, trunk/tailgate, and door hinges
***8226; Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches. Check operation of all latches
***8226; Check central locking/double lock
***8226; Replace micro filter of ACC Cabin Filter
***8226; Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger
***8226; Check rear view mirrors
***8226; Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn cover, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations or accessories

Final Inspection:

***8226; Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission
 

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Just shot coffee out of my nose reading this! That stealer is really trying to do a number on you!! Great post above by jwangfla.

- Danny
 

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What does this mean?

***8226; Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn cover, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations or accessories

- Danny
 

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That sounds a bit too steep. The stealership here wanted to charge me 1650.00 for I2, I did some research on local reputable indy shops, and found one that had a maintenance special $599.95 for I2. Also found another one that had 20% off labor and parts for first time customers, they were around the $800.00 range. I went with the first one, they did a great job. The deals are out there, it just requires a little digging around. Good luck :thumbup:


Sh!t. Yup that's what is going through my brain right now.

Just got a quote for my type II inspection of 2935.65 and my rear bearings need replaceing (I can hear them at low speeds) at 1825.00. My car has 112,000 miles on it. I LOVE IT, she is a beauty. However at 5,000 (with new tires purchased) I would end up spending 1/3 of the blue book value JUST THIS YEAR. This thing is turning into a monster money pit. I either find a way to cut down this price or it's time to let her go...

How hard is it to do this stuff yourself?


Thoughts?
 

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You can get all the parts online for $400 I believe, then pay someone for a valve adjustment (Indy's will charge between $350-750 for this). Assuming you are talking about your RTABs when you say "rear bearings" that should cost no more than $500-ish including an alignment.
 

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Just shot coffee out of my nose reading this! That stealer is really trying to do a number on you!! Great post above by jwangfla.

- Danny
OP keep your 5000 bucks in your pocket and donate jwangfla $50 for the list. get new sparkplugs air fliter oil filter cabin filter 7 gallons of oil 4 new tires and call it a day. do a tune up yourself. visually check whats on the list and make your own list of stuff that needs replacing.

btw dealer just quoted me last week $1200 for replacing rear springs and shocks... I got the parts for $150 and replaced them all under an hour. If you are not a DIY type of guy go to an indy with the list. good luck man :thumbup:
 

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btw with the right tools, you can replace each wheel bearing under 2 hours. they are ~$85 at the dealer. but take it to an indy and pay $600 something just for piece of mind
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
take your car elsewhere, you have been a member on here since 07 and still haven't learned that?
I agree with the thought however this quote was from Tischner BMW in MD (getbmwparts.com) and I have always used them. They have ALWAYS hooked me up and let me buy parts from them online *cheaper* and bring them to install. This is the first time I've been hit with something so outrageous by them. Honestly part of me completely believed the price. The other part was disbelief and shock.

So my post was afte the quote but before looking elsewhere.
 

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If you are having a dealer (or any shop really) do your inspection II, verify they do a valve adjustment. Ive read countless times, about a shop saying its not necessary and/or they dont do it.
 

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OP...while the prices you were quoted are indeed outrageous, it is natural for repair / maintenance costs of an older car to exceed it's book value. The proper comparison would be the amount of money you spend keeping this vehicle in good running condition vs. the cost of owning a comparable new vehicle. If you spent $5000 on your car in one year, that would be dwarfed by the depreciation on a new, similarly equipped car in its first year of ownership. The moral of the story is that you gotta pay to play, either at the front end or the back end. Good luck, and don't let this sour your ownership of a fine automobile.
 

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Sh!t. Yup that's what is going through my brain right now.

Just got a quote for my type II inspection of 2935.65 and my rear bearings need replaceing (I can hear them at low speeds) at 1825.00. My car has 112,000 miles on it. I LOVE IT, she is a beauty. However at 5,000 (with new tires purchased) I would end up spending 1/3 of the blue book value JUST THIS YEAR. This thing is turning into a monster money pit. I either find a way to cut down this price or it's time to let her go...

How hard is it to do this stuff yourself?


Thoughts?
I'd take your car to a different dealership and get quotes there if you have another dealership to go to. This is way too high. You are being charged 1k too high just to replace rear wheel bearings. I had my rear wheel bearings replaced in my bimmer and it cost me $800 to get it done.

As jwangfla posted earlier, you can do most of the Insp I/II yourself. There are good diy's out there on this forum, M3Forum.net and madrussian website to do.

I'm about to get my Insp I done and it will cost me about $900 to do because I had gotten everything else in the checklist done. Having access to a Auto Hobby shop on base is a nice thing...:D
 

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CHILL!!

Inspection 2 at 3k?! LMAO. Come to jersey where dealerships will rape you for 1000 less. I recommend going to a quality shop in Jersey for 2k less and get the same quality work. This is IF you dont want to save even more doing stuff yourself. 3k for Inspection II, lmfao, I think that quote should go in the hall of fame.
 
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