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Discussion Starter #1
So I have been researching and compiling a list of various maintenance items to complete while I have my car on the lift and the transmission out for a clutch replacement. My car is a 2005 330i ZHP 6sp with 177k miles. None of the items on the list with the exception of valve cover gasket and OFHG have been replaced. I'd love some feedback on the items I've decided to replace and see if there are any other things I should consider while I'm in there. This is a big project for me, and I just want to make sure I cover all my bases while everything is apart. Debating whether or not it's worth replacing my O2 sensors or wheel bearings since they aren't necessarily giving me any problems as far as I can tell.
Main questions: Should i use the brass throw out bearing? Should I purchase a rear main seal that is already mounted? Is it worth replacing o2 sensors and wheel bearings? Anything else I should add to the list or change?

Things I have purchased already:
1) LUK Clutch Kit (pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing, pilot bearing, clutch fork, and alignment tool) (6243575000)
2) LUK dual mass flywheel (LUK DMF053)
3) Schwaben flywheel lock kit (014433SCH01A)
4) Rear Main seal (I've heard this can be a pain and to purchase a seal that is already mounted) (11142249533)
5) BMW Crank Seal Cover Gasket (11141432240)
6) Self locking hex nut (x3) (07129900047)
7) Exhaust gasket (x2) (18107502346)
8) Pivot pin (21511223328) - I'm considering buying a brass one instead of the OEM plastic
9) Shifter arm bushing x2 (25111222015)
10) shifter bushing (x2) (25117519670)

Things on the list to purchase and replace:
1) *Sachs Clutch slave cylinder (21526785966)
2) *Motor and transmission mounts (ECS 11811140985KT1)
3) *Flex disc kit with center support mount and guibo (ECS 26117511454KT)
4) *Oil pan gasket (11131437237)
5) *Brass throw out bearing (ECS 013236ECS01A)
6) *Various parts to complete the shifter rebuild (23411466134, 25111220439, 25111221579, 25111221580, 25111222451, 25111434194, 25111220600, 25117571899, 51438229759(x6)

Others:
7) windshield cowl (51718208483)
8) Differential drain plug (33117525064)
9) oil filter housing gasket kit with vanos line (ECS 11421719855kt)
10) fuel pump and fuel pump gasket (16146766942 & 16111184084)
11) front and rear windshield gaskets and hood sealing gasket (51318196162 & 51318196166 & 51718215919)
12) Valve cover gasket (11120030496KT2)
13) Transmission plug (23117531356)
14) Front wheel bearings with hub nut, axle nut, dust protection collar (31226757024, 31211128336, 33411133785, 31206777788)
15) Rear wheel bearing kit (33411090505KT)
16) Bosch Oxygen sensors (pre cat - 11787558055, 11787558087 & Post cat - 11787545074 & 11787545075)
 

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Because Race...Convertible?
Turbo ZHP Convertible
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Id suggest a stainless pivot pin. I used to think the brass was bulletproof but mine actually melted. The rear main is tricky. Its one of those things I think is best to leave alone if its not leaking, because if inexperienced you could end up replacing an old not leaking seal with a new leaking one. Make sure the throwout is replaced WITH OEM. Its a bit more but the non OEMs usually have wobble.
 

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I know this is an old thread, and I'm new to E46Fanatics, but I've owned and DIY'd BMW 3-Series for 30 years and over 900,000 in total driven miles.

Maybe it's because you had access to a lift and you thought it would be easy to do a lot of part replacements, but a lot of that list of parts is ridiculous to replace just because the car is on a lift. As carbon stated, and I have verified with every professional mechanic I've spoken with, if the rear crank seal is not leaking, leave it alone because there is good chance the replacement seal may start to leak. My E90 is on it's original seal at 380,000. I did the clutch at 292,000.

Unless the driveshaft is vibrating, it too should be left alone. Replacing the center bearing is not easy, it requires special tools (I had to fab mine) to install. Unless the guibo is torn, it's still good. BMW owners replace guibos , drivetrain bushings, and suspension bushings way too often. Rear wheel bearings are very difficult to replace on a 3 series and again require special tools to remove and install. You need a bearing replacement tool set and a hub remover to push the halfshaft out of the hub. I've never replaced a drain plug, sealing washer yes, but a drain plug, never. Use Teflon tape.

If the bearing are not failed, then leave them alone. The clutch pivot pin is Delrin plastic. Extremely tough material. It doesn't need to be replaced. Any metal part can wear and corrode.

My 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I know this is an old thread, and I'm new to E46Fanatics, but I've owned and DIY'd BMW 3-Series for 30 years and over 900,000 in total driven miles.



Maybe it's because you had access to a lift and you thought it would be easy to do a lot of part replacements, but a lot of that list of parts is ridiculous to replace just because the car is on a lift. As carbon stated, and I have verified with every professional mechanic I've spoken with, if the rear crank seal is not leaking, leave it alone because there is good chance the replacement seal may start to leak. My E90 is on it's original seal at 380,000. I did the clutch at 292,000.



Unless the driveshaft is vibrating, it too should be left alone. Replacing the center bearing is not easy, it requires special tools (I had to fab mine) to install. Unless the guibo is torn, it's still good. BMW owners replace guibos way too often. Rear wheel bearings are very difficult to replace on a 3 series and again require special tools to remove and install. You need a bearing replacement tool set and a hub remover to push the halfshaft out of the hub.



If the bearing are not failed, then leave them alone. The clutch pivot pin is Delrin plastic. Extremely tough material. It doesn't need to be replaced. Any metal part can corrode.



My 2 cents.


I really appreciate the response. My center support bearing shredded recently so I took the opportunity to go ahead and replace that and the guibo which was dry and cracked. I’m not replacing wheel bearings like you suggested
 

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I really appreciate the response. My center support bearing shredded recently so I took the opportunity to go ahead and replace that and the guibo which was dry and cracked. I’m not replacing wheel bearings like you suggested
Good then, it makes sense to replace the center bearing if it has failed, especially while the driveshaft is out for a clutch replacement. Ditto the guibo. Of all the miles I've driven, I've never needed to replace a guibo, but they can fail, no doubt about.
 

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You might consider buying a rebuilt driveshaft. At that age/mileage the driveshaft may not have many more miles left. This shop is considered to be one of the best in the country. I have friends who are bimmer techs and they recommend it:

http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com.

It’s located in San Antonio, Texas, but they have quick turn around service.


I know, mission creep.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You might consider buying a rebuilt driveshaft. At that age/mileage the driveshaft may not have many more miles left. This shop is considered to be one of the best in the country. I have friends who are bimmer techs and they recommend it:

http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com.

It’s located in San Antonio, Texas, but they have quick turn around service.


I know, mission creep.


I really hope that’s not necessary. I don’t seem to have anymore vibration after replacing the CSB and guibo. Any other particular symptoms of a failing driveshaft?
 
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