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Can't fix stupid. Projects like this require a dedication of a lot of time. People will always try to shortcut this. I'm glad there is a community here to help though, couldn't have even thought about doing this without everybody chipping in knowledge and experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Can't fix stupid. Projects like this require a dedication of a lot of time. People will always try to shortcut this. I'm glad there is a community here to help though, couldn't have even thought about doing this without everybody chipping in knowledge and experience.
Nothing can cure stupid. If you open source any sort of information, stupid people will do stupid things with it. There is no way to prevent anyone from using the tunes as shortcuts, but i see them as a valuable resource to people who need them.

Im on the same boat as you. This information available here is what kickstarted me to go down the FI road and it continues to be a valuable resource for questions and information. But having the mechanical side of things so open and talked about, but the tune still in the dark doesnt really make boosting your E46 fully open sourced yet... At this point the site will only have guides and ill worry about the tune stuff later. :banghead:
 

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Well, there is stil plenty of possibilities to help people getting the engine run (roughly). Chatting about the importance of getting the axis values right, discussions about torque modelling (which to me no one really touched till today?!), optimizing ignition maps by knock learning maps, etc...

There are still so many things left, one could write books about it!
 

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Hardware side is easy to do, tune required expensive equipment (dyno). Open source kit would be killer for some businesses who sell kits for our cars. There in UK i can get 415hp kit for 4k pounds installed, most important its on ms43 dme. So if anyone want to donate 4k, i will buy 330, send car to garage. And after i can disassemble everything and share exact part list with dump from DME. :D

I'm still cant understand why part list + proper tune, will be worst than turbo kit *from some random company.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Problem with open source software for me is, people like HaksonTT will sell it as their knowledge to people that have no clue and maybe will grenade their engine :(

So pretty much it's looking like the tuning side of things will be not implemented at all or if it is, it will be invite only...

Would still be semi open sourced and zero cost, but i think it could keep all the idiots and thieves away.

We could do something great with this and i don't want someone like Haken to ruin it for everyone :(
 

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So pretty much it's looking like the tuning side of things will be not implemented at all or if it is, it will be invite only...

Would still be semi open sourced and zero cost, but i think it could keep all the idiots and thieves away.

We could do something great with this and i don't want someone like Haken to ruin it for everyone :(
I'm not sure why you guys keep saying that tuning side of this is kept in the dark or kept secret. Me, Daniel, John and a few others have pretty much handed everyone the tools needed on a silver platter. I know someone personally who recently only used my romraider defs to tune for a turbo with great results. There are no secrets.

Then there comes the actual tuning, and that's not kept a secret either. There is lots of info out there on how to tune from many different sites, but its not something your going to learn in a day or reading some magic post that lets out all the secrets. It would be like me asking my doctor to tell me the secret to being a doctor, its no secret it just takes time to learn. Most people don't have the time to learn how to be a doctor or a tuner, that's why there isn't one on every street corner.

I'm usually wiling to answer any question regarding tuning to a point (I do have a job and life in the real world) but I think it would destructive of me to just post up a tune.
 

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it would destructive of me to just post up a tune.
And it will be, because somebody will sell it. And i really hate these peoples, because of them community loose so much info. For example in my case, only thing what holds me back for turbo setup, is actual tune. I could do a bit more research, and try tune car based on data logging, knock and wideband sensors, but its never be optimal.
 

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So pretty much it's looking like the tuning side of things will be not implemented at all or if it is, it will be invite only...

Would still be semi open sourced and zero cost, but i think it could keep all the idiots and thieves away.

We could do something great with this and i don't want someone like Haken to ruin it for everyone :(
You can tune it your self if you want. The information is available on the open source for you to gain the ability to fully tune your DME with a $12 cable from amazon, and a laptop.

You are going to have to learn how to tune as well, have to! When you make changes, you need to know what impact they had as well. You are going to need access to a dyno.

All of this information is available online, and people are around to help. Even if you pass the tuning task to another, you should know tuning basics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
You can tune it your self if you want. The information is available on the open source for you to gain the ability to fully tune your DME with a $12 cable from amazon, and a laptop.

You are going to have to learn how to tune as well, have to! When you make changes, you need to know what impact they had as well. You are going to need access to a dyno.

All of this information is available online, and people are around to help. Even if you pass the tuning task to another, you should know tuning basics.
Already know all about reading the flashes and writing them. I was concerned about the actual tuning part.

Im gonna invest in some books and start doing some reading about the basics!

Updates to the project, head is torqued down and ready to go. At this point im cleaning all the lifters and its taking forever. Huge pain in the a** :censor:

Heres a great lifter write up from user jjrichar: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=14251457#post14251457
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 · (Edited)
Few little updates here and there. Nothing major has really happened due to the fact that i stripped out 6 of the cam tray stud holes.

Here is the motor before i fixed the cam studs and installed the cams:
Motor vehicle Auto part Vehicle Scrap Engine


Heres a look at the RallyRoad oil pump nut all wired up:
Auto part Machine Engine


And finally what the RaceWare head studs look like after installation:
Auto part Gear Machine Metal


Heres a look at some of the carnage from the stripped cam tray studs:
Auto part Engine Metal Spoke Vehicle

Engine Auto part Automotive engine part Vehicle Automotive super charger part


Lesson learned here is make sure your torque wrench is properly calibrated. Since these nuts for the cam studs are only torqued to 14nm, i used my smallest torque wrench (hadnt been used in months) and it was out of calibration, resulting in stripping the nuts. Not sure why i kept going after 1 stripped (probably because i was working at 2 am lol) but i ended up fixing all the holes with M7 timeserts and now they hold torque perfectly.

Next step would have been setting the timing, but after speaking to hobbit, he suggest setting the timing in the car. Today im going to swap the output flange from my GeTrag box to my ZF box and start putting stuff back on the block (water pipes, filter housing, oil pan, etc)

Cant wait to start putting it back in the car! (hopefully this weekend) :clap:

Edit: sorry about the pictures, they rotated after uploading :(
 

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Is it possible that the engine has been overheated in the past causing the threads to soften and causing the failure? Doesn't seem that you've been having much luck with the engine! :(
Also, how much clearance do you have between the top of the head studs and the cam tray?

It all looks good though! Looking forward to it being finished! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Is it common to have so many threads strip and pull out when doing this work? What parts did you replace in the head, or clean and reuse?

Looking good!
Head bolts stripping out is pretty common. The cam tray studs striping was due to my torque wrench. I cannot stress enough the importance of picking up a quality torque wrench.

The head was surfaced,washed,coated,had the valves cleaned, and the valve seats cut. Reusing the cams, trays,studs,nuts,etc. Besides the head bolts, nothing else on the head is really torqued enough to the point where the bolts stretch and become one time use.

Is it possible that the engine has been overheated in the past causing the threads to soften and causing the failure? Doesn't seem that you've been having much luck with the engine! :(
Also, how much clearance do you have between the top of the head studs and the cam tray?

It all looks good though! Looking forward to it being finished! :)
Im not really gonna blame the engine as this point, most problems have been caused by either my mistakes or inaccurate torque wrenches. But hey thats how you learn :hi: I dont know the repair history of this car, but clearly things like the cracked piston and the poorly done timeserts shows its not in 100 percent shape. Glad i decided to rebuild before boost.

Heres some pics of the stud clearance: (sorry hard to get good pictures)
Auto part Vehicle Car Subcompact car City car

Auto part
 

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I cannot stress enough the importance of picking up a quality torque wrench.
]
Amen to that!

Im not really gonna blame the engine as this point, most problems have been caused by either my mistakes or inaccurate torque wrenches. But hey thats how you learn :hi: I dont know the repair history of this car, but clearly things like the cracked piston and the poorly done timeserts shows its not in 100 percent shape. Glad i decided to rebuild before boost.

Heres some pics of the stud clearance: (sorry hard to get good pictures)
View attachment 632807
View attachment 632806
like you said, that's how we learn ;)
I personally think its always good to make sure the engine is in good condition before going down the route of FI. just think what could of happened if you didn't do the rebuild before you boosted it... could have been a new engine altogether and more headache! :ben:

Looks like you have tons of clearance between the cam tray and head stud!:thumbup:

reading everyone else's builds just makes me want to get mine done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Amen to that!

like you said, that's how we learn ;)
I personally think its always good to make sure the engine is in good condition before going down the route of FI. just think what could of happened if you didn't do the rebuild before you boosted it... could have been a new engine altogether and more headache! :ben:

Looks like you have tons of clearance between the cam tray and head stud!:thumbup:

reading everyone else's builds just makes me want to get mine done!
Been following your build, cant wait to see it done!!


Well more bad news, someone had previously suggested swapping the GeTrag output flange onto the ZF transmission. That way my current driveshaft/guibo setup could be kept.

Here are the two flanges side by side (ZF left,GT right):
Electric blue Auto part Metal


You can clearly see how much larger the ZF flange is. Heres why i run into a problem:
Auto part Transmission part Hardware accessory


The 36mm nut from the ZF's larger output shaft does not fit inside the output flange of the GT box. Using the GT nut with the GT flange is not an option either, because the GT has a 30mm nut and the ZF a 36mm.

Pretty stuck at this point. Consulted with hobbit to see if he has any recomendations on what to do. At this point i think im going to have to source a 330 driveshaft and swap the front part of that in.

Updates to come :facepalm: :tsk:
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 · (Edited)
Updates!

Major progress has been made. Looking like the motor will be ready by this weekend for the reinstall. A lot of misc stuff has been put back (oil filter housing, alternator, oil pan, level sensor, water pipes, and turbo drain).
Engine Auto part Automotive engine part Vehicle Machine

Engine Auto part Automotive engine part Vehicle


Cams are installed, but no sprockets or chain linkages yet. Im waiting to take then engine off the stand, so i can set the timing. Reason for this is that the flywheel wont fit on with the motor while its on the stand. Glad i saved my old flywheel after my clutch job a few months back, because the new one doesn't not have the hole for the timing pin (circled in red). Going to remove the engine from the stand and set it done on some tires, throw on the old flywheel, put in locking pin and set the timing. once thats done, ill put the new one piece flywheel and clutch on.
Auto part Rotor Rim Vehicle Clutch part


On another note, i also solved the transmission flange issue. What i've found is that the 325, 328, and 330 all have different driveshafts with different bolt counts and configurations.

Heres the information (only for manual driveshafts):
323/325: 78mm flange (small flex disc), 1,585mm length, 4 bolt dif flange
328: 96mm flange (big flex disc), 1,565mm length, 4 bolt dif flange
330: 96mm flange (big flex disc), 1,550mm length, 6 bolt dif flange

Transmission Flange Info:
GeTrag 5 Speed: 78mm flange
ZF 5 Speed: 96mm flange

For all 325 owners doing the ZF transmission swap, the 328i manual drive shaft is the perfect solution. Its slightly shorter, uses the 96mm diff flange, and yet maintains the 4 bolt differential flange allowing you to keep your existing differential. The other (more expensive) option is to purchase the 330 drive shaft (a lot beefier than the 325/328 driveshaft) and also a 330 differential. The reason you need the 330 dif is because the 330 driveshaft uses a 6 bolt flange vs the 325/328 dif which uses 4 bolt. The downside? 328 manual driveshaft's are quite hard to find. I got really lucky at my local scrapyard and found one for $175. Scrapyard owner said thats the only one hes seen come through his door.
Auto part Subcompact car Family car

Pink Text Font Label Magenta


Updates to come!! :thumbup:
 

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Few little updates here and there. Nothing major has really happened due to the fact that i stripped out 6 of the cam tray stud holes.

Here is the motor before i fixed the cam studs and installed the cams:
View attachment 632777

Heres a look at the RallyRoad oil pump nut all wired up:
View attachment 632778

And finally what the RaceWare head studs look like after installation:
View attachment 632776

Heres a look at some of the carnage from the stripped cam tray studs:
View attachment 632774
View attachment 632775

Lesson learned here is make sure your torque wrench is properly calibrated. Since these nuts for the cam studs are only torqued to 14nm, i used my smallest torque wrench (hadnt been used in months) and it was out of calibration, resulting in stripping the nuts. Not sure why i kept going after 1 stripped (probably because i was working at 2 am lol) but i ended up fixing all the holes with M7 timeserts and now they hold torque perfectly.

Next step would have been setting the timing, but after speaking to hobbit, he suggest setting the timing in the car. Today im going to swap the output flange from my GeTrag box to my ZF box and start putting stuff back on the block (water pipes, filter housing, oil pan, etc)

Cant wait to start putting it back in the car! (hopefully this weekend) :clap:

Edit: sorry about the pictures, they rotated after uploading :(

Just looking through your thread, How do you feel about that tie wire holding your oil pump nut on spinning at 7000rpm? Wouldn't that wire add to the vibrations?
 

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Just looking through your thread, How do you feel about that tie wire holding your oil pump nut on spinning at 7000rpm? Wouldn't that wire add to the vibrations?

The m54b25 doesn't have the harmonic issues of the m54b30.
 
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