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M54B22 - lack of power

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2K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  Bali  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi there,
I’m struggling with my 02' M54B22 E46 320i (125kW) Touring, hence searching for lovely E46 community advice.

Problem description
Basically in all RPM spectre the engine is not getting the “homogenous” power. It feels like it’s not running on all 6 cylinders even though they are all firing. There’s no misfire nor MIL. When I scan the DME there’s no code, it’s crystal clear. But when you rev the engine till the red-line, it can throw random misfire (mainly cylinder 5 and/or 6 but also combination of cylinders), clean the codes and drive normally means no code; pushing to the red line means misfire/MIL.

Suspects:

Vacuum leak

First and foremost, we have replaced all the vacuum lines, including the one getting from the secondary air pump/valve thru the non-return valve to the intake manifold. The one getting to the F connector on rubber boot. Checked all the rubber boots/tubes - no crack, no leak. DISA got “upgraded”, i.e. o-ring. Idle control valve cleaned. Smoke test passed, found no leaks.

Bad CCV
In order to exclude this famous issue, CCV was replaced by original BMW (including all hoses/tubes) as well as oil cap and valve cover gasket (all original BMW).

Fuel supply
Nope, the fuel pump replaced by brand new one, including fuel filter (and hoses) MANN. Also, the fuel cap replaced by brand new one (original) as the o-ring/seal was cracked and it may have caused issues.

Camshaft sensors
Yes, that might be a problem, long crank, random stalls, missing performance etc. Both intake and exhaust camshaft sensors replaced. Still the same engine behaviour.

Engine
So, here we are. What if the engine itself has passed its lifetime? We have tried to replace spark plugs (tried both BOSCH FGR7DQP+ as well as NGK BKR6EQUP); tried to replace original BREMI coils by the NGK U5055 (still the same behaviour, hence BREMI coils put back). When the engine was idling, we’ve tried to unplug each coil (one at a time) in order to check if all cylinders are firing (yes, they are). Then tried to unplug MAF, still the same. In order to get an idea of engine health, we have performed dry compression test (get up to the engine operational temp, full throttle, unplugged fuel pump, removed fule from the rail).

If I’m not wrong, the compression ratio for the M54B22 is 10.8:1, hence 10.8 times 14.7 = 158.76 psi or 10.95 bar (that’s the min. what should pop up on gauge).


Code:
1. cylinder   ~11.9 bar ( ~172 psi )
2. cylinder   ~11.9 bar ( ~172 psi )
3. cylinder   ~11.5 bar ( ~166 psi )
4. cylinder   ~11.2 bar ( ~162 psi )
5. cylinder   ~10.9 bar ( ~158 psi )
6. cylinder   ~10.9 bar ( ~158 psi )
Someone said that the max. dif. between the cylinders should be ~7psi and/or ~0.5 bar. If that’s the case, then the engine is K.O? Is that just a feeling or bittersweet reality? What could be the issue? Piston rings? Valves? Head gasket? Would leak-down test be any beneficial? Any ideas/thoughts? Many thanks!
 
#2 ·
VANOS? Maybe it has trouble at high rpm with solenoids on their way out. Anything in the oil sump? Sometimes timing chain guides go bad and slowly disintegrate, in which case you would find plastic parts in there. Maybe have a look at bearings while you are there but engine mileage would be some indication. Not often a failure point but still.

Good luck!
 
#4 ·
In case it’s intake solenoid, wouldn’t be there any code? In case it’s VANOS I’d see some big dif. between actual and reference/specified position, wouldn’t I? The same for timing chain issue, I’d expect something in DME or via diag. Anyway, thanks for the hints. What’s your opinion on compression and dif. between 1., 2., and 5., 6. cylinders?
 
#6 ·
Your compression numbers are fine. The min. for the M54 is technically 142, but what is more important is you want to see no more than 10% difference between your highest and lowest numbers. The difference between your high/low (172 & 158) is .9% so while towards the edge, they are definitely within spec.

The first concern you listed is performance. You've already done most of the work, but there are still a few things you can check. Fuel injectors, fuel injector o-rings, wiring harness/connectors, belts & torque converter (if automatic) come to mind.

What are you using to scan your car? Use INPA or PA Soft 1.4 if you have it, recommend you get one or both if you don't.
 
#7 ·
It’s manual, so we can exclude the torque convertor. With regards to fuel injectors, I’ve got two brand new, so I replaced those on 5th and 6th cyl. (with the lowest compression). Besides that, I replaced o-rings on all of them. Unfortunately, I haven’t installed INPA, yet. For now, I’m using BimCOM tool which is not great but still can do some basic job.
 
#8 ·
If you're still getting misfires on cyls 5 & 6 even with the new injectors then it's likely not fuel delivery.

Even though you changed out the coils and then changed them back, you could still be having coil related issues if there are any problems with the wiring and/or coil connectors. Simply cleaning the connectors on mine got rid of an intermittent misfire I was having on cyl. 5. However, if you suspect the coil harness itself could be bad, it's cheap and easy enough to pull another one from a pick-n-pull to replace and test it.

Couple other, probably longer shots, but worth considering:

1. Check your voltage. A bad battery or failing alternator could be causing your voltage to drop at high rpm.

2. A failing cat could cause the issues you describe. Typically if your cat were starting to go bad the downstream sensors would be telling you with a code. That said, if it's possible a previous owner might have installed a spacer on the rear 02 sensor(s) to mask an issue then it's worth checking out IMO.

Finally, and I really can't stress this enough, INPA is the one thing I wish I had gotten the day I bought my car. The amount of information it provides is invaluable to troubleshooting theses cars. It's cheap, just the cost of the cable (≈ $30) and the time to download the software. In addition to diagnostics, you can also use NCS expert to do some fun mods or in my case, fix some programming issues and activate my alarm. If you don't want to deal with translating german, the PA Soft 1.4 cable costs about the same, software is free to download, does diagnostics and programming and is extremely easy to use.

Hope that helps. Good luck :)