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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi team,
Asked this in my build thread but hoping to get a bit more traction.
Stumbled upon a few niggly questions I'm hoping someone could help me with. About to order in some more parts and want to make sure I cover all the bases.
  • VANOS plug washers - are they OK to reuse? I assume they're crush washers so ideally would be replaced but can't see them sold separately, instead sold with a new plug. Not majorly expensive but is it a necessity or a good-to-have?
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  • Rear main seal bolts and block blind plugs - what's the best thread sealer to use on these? Seen a few instances of these not sealing properly and starting to weep. They look like they had blue Loctite originally but have also seen high temp PTFE thread sealer used. Could also buy whole new plugs with sealer applied but might be a bit excessive.
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  • Oil pump pressure regulator O-ring - replace with generic rubber O-ring or leave alone? Original seems to be viton that I'm not sure where to source a new one from. A rubber one might not hold up too well to the conditions though. Still worth replacing or best to just reuse the original viton one? Or where would you get the right viton one?
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  • Cylinder head oil non-return valve - I'm going to clean up and reuse the old valve but looking to replace the O-ring as the old one's gone real flat. Same as above, seems like viton but can't find a place that supplies the right ones, most places only sell the whole valve. Saw this thread and ordered the viton O-ring mentioned there. It arrived but doesn't look to be the right size. Anyone have experience with this or know where I can get the right O-ring?
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Thanks guys
 

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I have reused vanos plug washers, but I have a big assortment of crush washers...If I did it now, I would try to use a new washer.

On the rear main seal, the two large bolts at the bottom of the RMS carrier that thread horizontally toward front of engine need sealer...Any thread sealer (not loctite) will work. A little blue loctite on all other bolts is fine. You should also use thread sealer on flywheel bolts.

Oil pressure regulator o-ring...I would get a viton o-ring or re-use the one you had.

On cylinder head drain valve...A viton o-ring of the correct size would be nice here, but you can go a long time on a Buna o-ring as it did from the factory. A decent metric o-ring assortment should have one...If not, maybe the corner garage (mechanic) will help you with the correct o-ring.
 

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I've found using RealOEM is a good start as you can get the BMW part number and then I google this. I've found many a Viton O ring this way. Being here in Oz you may well struggle with local supply but if you can find a supplier that deals specifically with O rings then they should be able to help. I also bought a generic Viton O ring kit from Radio Spares (RS) and this has given some success but lots of the BMW O rings have very specific thicknesses and ID/OD. If you google Loctite and go to the manufacturers website then you can find the thread lock that also acts as a sealant. Permatex sell a nice thread sealer but it doesn't 'lock' the thread and if the bung isn't a tapered thread then the thread lock should be used for peace of mind.
For the Vanos crush washers they're aluminium but I don't see why copper couldn't be used. Again though a bit of searching should bring up what you're after.

I've also searched as far as the UK and changed the Google search page to primarily look in the UK instead of AU or USA but using multiple search regions can give results in Germany as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks fellas. Got a few items ticked off.
  • Will just reuse the VANOS plugs with the old washers or get the new plugs. Only like $6 dollars each, might tack it onto my next order just to be safe
  • For some silly reason, no local supplier in NZ stocks Permatex 59214 but did find one that has 59235, the description on which reads identical so will go with that. Loctite 567 is available but 50mL is an absolutely idiotic NZ$100 so bugger that.
  • Not sure how I missed it, re-checked RealOEM and the oil pump pressure regulator O-ring does have it's own part number (11411722837 if anyone's looking) and is available to buy so will get one of them.
  • Got a few recommendations for local O-ring suppliers so will try one of those for the cylinder head non-return valve.
 

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my advice: all o-rings and washers should be replaced. Local part store that sells multi-brand o-rings --> even if they fit, they still might leak. I've had that issue and replaced them with the correct specific ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
my advice: all o-rings and washers should be replaced. Local part store that sells multi-brand o-rings --> even if they fit, they still might leak. I've had that issue and replaced them with the correct specific ones.
I think I've sorted most the ones I need, only problematic that's left is the cylinder head non-return valve one which doesn't have a part number and you can only buy it along with a new valve which is like US$80, which seems silly. I'll either get a new O-ring or just reuse the current one. Seems to be a low-pressure one in this instance.
Otherwise yeah, definitely subscribe to the general notion of replacing all crush washers and seals that you can.
 

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my advice: all o-rings and washers should be replaced. Local part store that sells multi-brand o-rings --> even if they fit, they still might leak. I've had that issue and replaced them with the correct specific ones.
Unless the local parts store specifically stock Viton O rings then they are likely to be Butyl or if you're lucky nitrile. Butyl is a no no for engines and nitrile will last for a while but Viton is formulated specifically to resist oils, chemicals and heat cycles.
 

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Yup, O rings are a couple of cents to produce so the mark up by many sellers and BMW in particular is pretty darned disgusting. Sure there's more time and effort involved in sourcing things yourself but it's possible to go against the lazy, consumerist trend in society these days ;)
 
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