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Is this an M54B30 specific issue? Or do other BMW engines (S54 for example) suffer from the same issue? If the S54 suffers from a similar problem, is there a similar solution? Since the S54 redlines at 8k, I'd be kinda concerned about the long-term reliability of the oil pump if there are similar harmonics prblems
 

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I believe it's M54, although I THINK the S52 had similar harmonic issues (due to the crank).

The S54 uses a totally different oil pump.
 

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Just to clarify, so the Bimmerworld M50 Drilled Oil Pump Nut solution should be fine for a semi-track 325?

So essentially just the 3.0L have harmonics issues and require the more expensive solutions previously listed? Kind of making me think twice about doing a 3.0L engine swap...

Thanks for the replies :bow:
 

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You could take the stock oil pump nut off and drill it yourself. Takes about a minute.
or
Just Red Loctite it. I run the BMW Motorsport pump and it has a regular old right hand threaded nut on it. I just Red Loctite it and that's it.
 

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I believe it's M54, although I THINK the S52 had similar harmonic issues (due to the crank).

The S54 uses a totally different oil pump.
I did some research, and the S52 also seems to suffer from the oil pump nut issue... makes sense since the M54B30 and S52 have the same crank, and S52s actually see higher revs. While doing said research, I also found that the S52 guys often retrofit Euro S50 or S54 oil pans and pumps (while retaining the S52 sprocket so the chain still fits). Is there any reason that cannot be done on an M54?
 

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I did some research, and the S52 also seems to suffer from the oil pump nut issue... makes sense since the M54B30 and S52 have the same crank, and S52s actually see higher revs. While doing said research, I also found that the S52 guys often retrofit Euro S50 or S54 oil pans and pumps (while retaining the S52 sprocket so the chain still fits). Is there any reason that cannot be done on an M54?
Yes - clearance. The conrod cap will hit on the 3.0.
Also the S54 pump only attaches at three points which is less desirable in terms of block bracing.
Plus it uses the same failure prone sprocket shaft as the M54 pump.
 

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You could take the stock oil pump nut off and drill it yourself. Takes about a minute.
or
Just Red Loctite it. I run the BMW Motorsport pump and it has a regular old right hand threaded nut on it. I just Red Loctite it and that's it.
Thanks for the help :clap::)

I was sweating with the thought of having to buy the BMW Motorsport solution as it cost as much as a used 3.0L motor :confused:
 

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If I get the Greg Smith pump...why would I need to remove the sprocket?
 

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If I get the Greg Smith pump...why would I need to remove the sprocket?
To mount it; otherwise you can either get it located on the dowels, or chained up, but not both.
 

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Glad I found this thread. This is the best solution as it seems the multiple bolts would distribute the load off the oil pump nut.
 

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Is the shaft heat treated and centerless ground? I have heard of issues with aftermarket shafts that are just turned on a lathe. Also what alloy is it?
 

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Sounds exactly like what happened on my '04 530i at about 70k. The red oil pressure light would come on for a few seconds after: long drive, idle, starting up again slowly. (Panic time when going up a one way parking garage ramp helix with no exits.)

The dealer replaced the sender first and ultimately ended up replacing the oil pump.

Oil pump pressure is proportional to engine speed, so if there's a problem developing it will likely appear first at your lowest speeds when the oil is really hot and then disappear as the engine speeds up.
I Believe there was a TSB on that on the earlier cars.


Does anybody have a photo of the motorsports pump?
 

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dont mean to bring up and old thread but since I am inspecting my nut soon I just saw that the ZHP (performance package) has its own upgrade nut (11417897238). Maybe this is a more cheaper solution.
 

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I think it's been confirmed that it just has factory loctite on it. Still doesn't keep the sprocket from sheering off :)

dont mean to bring up and old thread but since I am inspecting my nut soon I just saw that the ZHP (performance package) has its own upgrade nut (11417897238). Maybe this is a more cheaper solution.
 

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dont mean to bring up and old thread but since I am inspecting my nut soon I just saw that the ZHP (performance package) has its own upgrade nut (11417897238). Maybe this is a more cheaper solution.
Apparently ZHPs have had this failure on tracks. I think the consensus is that the ZHP will need more provocation to have the nut fall of, because it is "locked" from the factory- such as holding it over 6k RPM on a spirited drive for an extended period of time, on the track or off. It seems normal 330s are much more prone to this failure even under normal hard driving. Keep in mind the ZHP also has a higher redline, which could make this problem worse (re: harmonic problems).

I think it's been confirmed that it just has factory loctite on it. Still doesn't keep the sprocket from sheering off :)
Yes, or the BMW, tan beige version. There is a picture somewhere, it is some type of fastener lock, whatever the compound is. It comes already "lactated"
 

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PEI330,

I remembered reading your build thread on here and my330i that your oil pump nut was finger loose even after the special modified oil pump and ATI damper. You discovered this observation after your engine exploded and you disassembled your engine. If this is correct then is there really any cure for the oil pump nut?
 
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