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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi BMW fanatics! i'm new here and this is my first post.
I live in UK but english is not my first language, so sorry for any problems with reading this.
My car, e46 325ci msport 70000 when bought it and now 110000 miles
I love it but since i bought it I've notice big thirst for oil :bawling:
After reading many forums and post I've decided to change VCG and CCV(oil separator with hoses):thumbsup: But after few days driving no changes ,still 1/2 litre per 300 miles (castrol 5w30)
Next thing was to change for thicker oil 0w40,small improvment but not much.Bit confused because car is running fine,pulls fine no leaks ect,ect.
Many forums mentioned problems with valve seals so another DIY was in My plans:p
I've did valve and vanos seals with out removing the head and this time I was sure the problem is gone because consumption was near to zero:woot:,but after 6-8 months it came back :banghead:.So i order another set of valve seals i notice that they are different to old ones (tighter on the stem),bell start to ring,BMW put wrong seals and now they improve them for beter seal,I thought this time must be OOOOKKKKKK!!!!!!
It took another few months when car start to drink again 1/2 litre per 600 mile,:wtf::wtf:.Found some info saying if the valve guides are worn,replacing stem seals not gonna help for long.
After months of planning I've decided to remove the head and see myself :wtf: is going on!!!When I removed intake manifold I spot oil on the bottom of the 4 ports ,valves was stoping oil from geting to chambers( thats way car was smoking a bit on startup)
I feelt I'm going closer and after removing the head and taking it apart I've messured valve play! New valve stem is 5.94mm and guide is 6.00mm so 0.06mm play ,almost no play,and my was 0.2-0.3mm on intake and 0.3-0.5 on exhaust.
Now head is in machininst shop and probably next week i'm puting it back
 

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Good work mate! Nice first post!
I hope that'll fix it.
How did you get the pistons so nice and clean?
 

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Nice work, i am very jelly cuz id love to accomplish this in my car .

I wanna rebuild the engine my self but afraid to put it back together.:cry:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The worst part of this project is removing exhaust manifold(lack of space) and not loosing any part:s like small nuts or clips.Best way is to keep them labled i small jars or cups so its easy to see what is to go next.When removing head,ask somebody for help because its very heavy.
As for cleaming block and pistons-,tooth brush,wd40, for pistons and aceton for block.and two beers:)
 

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mine doesn't use any, and i beat the snot out of it
 

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CCV system and air distribution manifold tend to be major sources of oil usage.

Also make sure oil return in lower dipstick tube is not blocked.

These are very common issues.

Read about dipstick tube in the 3rd link below in my signature.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've done all that , ccv hoses dipstick oil catch for few weeks and nothing .If new guides not gonna help ,I will have to live with this ,don't won't to spend more money .I've spent enough. Will keep U guys updated
 

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Looking forward to your conclusion. I have replaced all the usual suspects (CCV, VANOS seals, VCG, cleared dipstick tube) and my oil consumption remains the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Forgot to write in my first post about knocking/rattling sound when car warming up and knocking/ pinging sound when accelerating hard, I'm 99% sure that was leaking exhaust valve cyl.no 4 with 0.5mm play
 

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My consumption is much lower than yours (1Q every 4,000 miles) but has increased in the last 40-50k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
1Q it's almost nothing comparing to my car.If U changed all this things and consumption is increasing that might be the same case or oil rings.

Sent from my HTC One X+ using BimmerApp mobile app
 

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That's why it doesn't use any. These engines were NOT designed to be 'babied' yet many are.
true, just about any engine runs better the more you kill it imo

no nasty buildup

esp with these ccv systems

change it every 5k, use bmw 5w/30, pound on it
 

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Forgot to write in my first post about knocking/rattling sound when car warming up and knocking/ pinging sound when accelerating hard, I'm 99% sure that was leaking exhaust valve cyl.no 4 with 0.5mm play
The valve can still seal with that much play. Are you replacing the valves too, or just regrinding them?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
This head was noisy and most when warm up like diesel.On cyl 4 exhaust was the loudest one and as I findout after removing head this one was leaking.Replacing guides and grinding old valves gonna help this engine run smoother and possibly reduce oil consumption
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm still waiting for the head.I manage to open oil separator(3 year old oem) without damaging it and inside I found......................................
NOTHING.No deposit ,no oil ,almost dry.:excited:
 
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