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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have an 03 325xi manual with 125k miles. Used to run pretty nice. A couple weeks ago while driving up close to the top of a couple mile hill in 5th gear, the car seemed to lose power and jerk for a second, sending the rpm way up to 5000, down to 0, and back up to normal 2500 in a matter of seconds. This would happen every 20 or so seconds the rest of the way up, and when it wasn't happening it had barely enough power to make it.

The check engine light came on and I connected my blue-tooth phone obd2 and got the codes:
P0335: Crankshaft Position Sensor 'A' Circuit
P1345: Misfire Cylinder 2 with fuel cutoff
P1347: Misfire Cylinder 3 with fuel cutoff

I was on my way to work, so I just cleared the codes and hoped that I would make it there without any issues (I did).

Now, this happens once every trip, around 10 minutes in, and after I clear the codes, it never happens again on that trip, but my power doesn't ever come back.

Both of the misfire codes have gone away but the CPS code has stuck around and is always showing up (even when the check engine light isn't on).

Whenever I sit at a red light in neutral, the rpms bounce from 400 to around 1200, kind of like breathing and a couple times it has gotten so low that it stalls out. I have to now specifically press the gas to start moving from a stop when the rpms are at their highest in the bouncing, or else it will stall on me.

Here's what I have done so far, for both preventative/regular maintenance and to try and fix it:
- Replaced fuel pump
- Replaced fuel filter
- Changed oil, oil filter
- Did smoke test and found leak from DISA valve, replaced that o'ring
- Changed spark plugs

I sort of wasn't expecting these to actually fix the problem (except for maybe the DISA leak), but figured it couldn't hurt to replace these with the high mileage while I was searching for issues.

What I am looking into now is whether or not to go directly into changing the crankshaft position sensor, but out of some of the other threads I've read, that hasn't fixed their issues with the P0335, and it seems to be a little more difficult than some of the other things I've done.

Just looking for some guidance on some things I could test and look for to fix it.
 

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What tool are you using to read and clear the codes? I ask because some generic readers will misinterpret codes. Happened to me with a relatively expensive reader. I replaced it with OBDFusion and a wifi communications adapter for my iPhone. Android uses a Bluetooth adapter. Search this forum for threads about OBDFusion with contributions by user jfoj. He's the resident guru.

The crankshaft position sensor can cause symptoms like yours. However, I'm betting that the fuel pump is on its way out. You need to check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Item #2 in the link below is the cap on the test port.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BN53-USA-07-2000-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=13_0900
The pressure needs to be at least 50psi.

If the pressure is low or changing the pump is soft failing. That is, it can't provide the volume of gas the engine needs at the proper pressure of at least 50psi. All soft failing pumps eventually hard fail!

So, the first step is to get the codes read using the proper tool. Then have the fuel pressure checked. As far as the crank position sensor, yes it can go bad. Make sure you buy an OEM sensor if the sensor is bad. Cheap sensors will fail you very quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you. That's a good point. I am using a cheap bluetooth obdII reader off of Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Amtake-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic/dp/B010XAJ4DA/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1489929247&sr=8-11&keywords=obd2+bluetooth+adapter), connected to the Torque app off the Google Play Store (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en)

I did just replace the fuel pump and filter, and it is still acting up. Still would be smart to check the pressure just to make sure that is or isn't the issue.
 

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Ditch the app and the reader. Get OBDFusion at the google store ($4!) and the Bluetooth adapter. Search for a thread on OBDFusion in which jfoj has provided linx to Amazon for the adapter. OBDFusion allows you to collect data from a myriad of data streams which can be exported for examination.
 

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2004 330Ci 85k miles
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Ditch the app and the reader. Get OBDFusion at the google store ($4!) and the Bluetooth adapter. Search for a thread on OBDFusion in which jfoj has provided linx to Amazon for the adapter. OBDFusion allows you to collect data from a myriad of data streams which can be exported for examination.
Hold on there, that reader may be okay. And Torque is a decent app. I would first get the OBD Fusion app as it's more reliable and known to work well in our cars. If that works fine then his OBD adapter works.
 

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My car is a 2001 330ci, with 174k. It threw a P0335 code in early June when I was driving on highway.

Symptoms of failing crankshaft position sensor observed: car stalled at least a couple times randomly at a stop sign in April; engine cranked longer before it started (happened a couple times); cylinder misfired during start (OBD codes P1343, 1344, 1349, 1353; engine fault codes 65, 83, 238, 244); RPM fluctuated between 1000 to 2000 when driving on highway (happened at least once); car jolted momentarily a number of times while moving at highway speed, which felt like a transmission problem.

A week later, I reset the OBD code using a generic OBD reader, and also cleared the engine fault codes using INPA software. Replaced crankshaft position sensor with OEM senor by Continental/Siemens VDO (non OEM sensors are known to fail prematurely). Also replaced the O-ring, and M6 1 inch bolt that holds the CPS. Accessed the CPS from the bottom. Took 1.5 hours to remove the CPS, and another 0.5 hour to install the new sensor. Turned the bolt using a 5 mm allen wrench (L shaped). Sensor and bolt is not visible from bottom - the bolt can be felt by hand only. Had to remove the bolt slowly, without stripping the bolt. Space to access the sensor and bolt is very tight, and there is room for one hand only to access the bolt.

I have driven the car for over one month and 1k miles now, without getting the P0335 or engine fault codes. Since I have previously replaced all the other parts mentioned earlier in this thread, I am quite certain that the CPS replacement fixed the P0335 issue. The car also threw DSC fault codes (5e26, 5e38, 5e3C) randomly before the CPS replacement, causing the brake light to turn yellow. After the CPS replacement, the DSC fault codes rarely occur, and the brake light does not turn yellow. Not sure if the DSC fault codes could be caused by the failing CPS, but a strange coincidence.
 
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