Lately the 325 has been taking 3 or 4 seconds of cranking before the engine kicks on. I don't think its the battery because the radio, lights, etc., all works fine. And once the engine starts everything works as it should. Anyone else have this problem or know what it might be?
Long cranks on start????
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My engine was cranking for an abnormally long time too (2-3 seconds) but only on the first start of the day. It would start fine after that, but then return to the long cranking on the first start the next day. Figured out that I wasn't giving the fuel pump enough time to prime the engine before trying to start. Try turning the key into accessory mode for about 5 seconds before you start the engine so the fuel pump can prime.
Please provide some more info on your problem
Hope that helps
Sent from my iPod touch using BimmerApp
Please provide some more info on your problem
Hope that helps
Sent from my iPod touch using BimmerApp
Thanks for the response AD. I haven't been able to detect any pattern yet to it. Sometimes it does it and then other times it doesn't. I can leave it sitting for a few days and it starts right up and then other times I can try starting it after its only been sitting five minutes and it cranks for 4 seconds before it finally starts.
It's just really annoying more than anything else. I got in my car tonight after visiting a friend and it was cranking so long that he poked his head out the door thinking I was having car trouble. Is there a permanent solution whereby I can just turn the key and it will start immediately? Do I need a new fuel pump?
It's just really annoying more than anything else. I got in my car tonight after visiting a friend and it was cranking so long that he poked his head out the door thinking I was having car trouble. Is there a permanent solution whereby I can just turn the key and it will start immediately? Do I need a new fuel pump?
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31,924 Posts
So you're saying it takes a while to start after you've been driving during the day for a while. Honestly it sounds like a common camshaft sensor/crankshaft sensor problem.
My Mercedes had that problem. I would drive, then it wouldn't start for crap later on in the day. It would take about an hour or more of "cool down period" for it to turn on.
My Mercedes had that problem. I would drive, then it wouldn't start for crap later on in the day. It would take about an hour or more of "cool down period" for it to turn on.
What I'm saying is there is no pattern at all. Sometimes it will start right away after I've been driving around town all day, other times it won't. Sometimes it takes time to start if I've let it sit for a day or so, other times it starts right up. It's just whenever it feels like it, it acts up.
I'm just getting tired of people looking at me while my car takes 4 seconds to start. So I want to find out what is the likely cause of the problem and fix it.
I'm just getting tired of people looking at me while my car takes 4 seconds to start. So I want to find out what is the likely cause of the problem and fix it.
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28,427 Posts
i doubt it's the fuel pump. you'll know its the fuel pump if your car dies out while running.
Honestly how is the maintenance on this car?
Have you cleaned your ICV? Do you run fuel injector cleaner? Throttle body clean? Spark plugs fresh (that can be a biggy), air filter?
I'd just give the engine bay a once over and check all the above is clean. Also yeah change your fuel filter. all those mentioned should be checked/cleaned/maintained regardless of whether or not they are causing the problem. If it fixes the problem, then I guess you have your answer.
Honestly how is the maintenance on this car?
Have you cleaned your ICV? Do you run fuel injector cleaner? Throttle body clean? Spark plugs fresh (that can be a biggy), air filter?
I'd just give the engine bay a once over and check all the above is clean. Also yeah change your fuel filter. all those mentioned should be checked/cleaned/maintained regardless of whether or not they are causing the problem. If it fixes the problem, then I guess you have your answer.
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26,414 Posts
It still could be the battery...that your lights and radio are on isn't the test for whether a battery is fully charged...but you've got that test built into your car...search cluster test and do it before you buy parts.
Fuel filter never a bad idea...always a good idea every 2-3 years anyway. Fuel pump could be getting tired, but a clogged filter would attenuate any weakness...but not sure this is a fuel problem at all yet.
Do cluster test and measure bat voltage off and on...sb approx 12 and 14...or just use multimeter and make sure bat cables are secure in trunk and under hood too (just heard that the positive under hood can lead to issues when it's loose.
...and it could be a sign that the starter is going wonky too...it happens...you don't want it to happen, but I've read of many starters being replaced here.
HTH
Doug
Fuel filter never a bad idea...always a good idea every 2-3 years anyway. Fuel pump could be getting tired, but a clogged filter would attenuate any weakness...but not sure this is a fuel problem at all yet.
Do cluster test and measure bat voltage off and on...sb approx 12 and 14...or just use multimeter and make sure bat cables are secure in trunk and under hood too (just heard that the positive under hood can lead to issues when it's loose.
...and it could be a sign that the starter is going wonky too...it happens...you don't want it to happen, but I've read of many starters being replaced here.
HTH
Doug
1-fuel filter/pump < i am putting my money on this and surpised more arent
2-battery (check voltage through your cluster its built into the car
)
3-spark plugs air filter etc (good to do just anyways)
i am always surprised how on the forums when obvious fuel pump/filter symptoms show up how it doesnt jump out at people. i feel like people dont think much about the fuel pump or filter when they are a huge part of the car running. i did my pump and filter a while back just as preventative. the motor's entire existence relies on a high pressure fuel feed into the rail. why people dont think about this actively, i dont know. the fuel pump is a VERY easy DIY (20 min its under the back seat from inside the cabin of the car ) and the OEM part is like 150 off pelican. did mine just for fun. i am not planning on being stranded any time soon. a clogged filter is equally appalling.
2-battery (check voltage through your cluster its built into the car
)3-spark plugs air filter etc (good to do just anyways)
i am always surprised how on the forums when obvious fuel pump/filter symptoms show up how it doesnt jump out at people. i feel like people dont think much about the fuel pump or filter when they are a huge part of the car running. i did my pump and filter a while back just as preventative. the motor's entire existence relies on a high pressure fuel feed into the rail. why people dont think about this actively, i dont know. the fuel pump is a VERY easy DIY (20 min its under the back seat from inside the cabin of the car ) and the OEM part is like 150 off pelican. did mine just for fun. i am not planning on being stranded any time soon. a clogged filter is equally appalling.
I had the same problem and I tried this, seems like it works it starts up fine now.
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14,240 Posts
I have this long crank problem at seemingly random times. Today I shut my car off after a 20 minute drive. Then, I came back and started it 20 minutes later. It took about 3-4 seconds to start. I have been letting the fuel pump prime the engine and it doesn't do it, but any time I don't do this, I'll get a long crank 50% of the time. Is there some sort of check valve in the fuel pump? I have replaced my filter recently. It did it before I replaced that too. My sparkplugs are new. My battery is a bit old, but the voltage is fine.
Anyone found a solution to this issue?
My battery is new, fuel tank pump is ok, filters all have been replaced fairly recently. I wouldnt say the starter engine sounds sluggish whilst long cranking (3-4 seconds), but i cannot really compare to when it cranks flawlessly (0.5 seconds)
Also tried spotting fuel leaks, or air bubbles in the fuel line, didnt find any.
Edit:
Ok, starter ruled out. Sent it to a tech, installed new brushes, rest was fine according to him. I got it back on my car yesterday.
Edit 2:
Starter actually was bad, could only tell what was the issue 2 weeks ago, when it started sounding really weird, and also the car struggled to start more often.
Bendix on the starter was busted. Got the starter repaired and now the car starts fine everytime.
My battery is new, fuel tank pump is ok, filters all have been replaced fairly recently. I wouldnt say the starter engine sounds sluggish whilst long cranking (3-4 seconds), but i cannot really compare to when it cranks flawlessly (0.5 seconds)
Also tried spotting fuel leaks, or air bubbles in the fuel line, didnt find any.
Edit:
Ok, starter ruled out. Sent it to a tech, installed new brushes, rest was fine according to him. I got it back on my car yesterday.
Edit 2:
Starter actually was bad, could only tell what was the issue 2 weeks ago, when it started sounding really weird, and also the car struggled to start more often.
Bendix on the starter was busted. Got the starter repaired and now the car starts fine everytime.
I am sure there are multiple things that could cause this. My 325 was having an intermittent long crank (3-5 sec) when the engine was hot after a short stop. Mine was caused by a failed one way check valve in the fuel filter. It failed to keep pressure in the fuel rail, and when the engine is hot the fuel, minus pressure, vaporizes. Upon starting it would take some cranks to build the pressure back up. My fuel filter has the check valve built into the regulator and once I changed it, the problem is 100% solved.
But like I said, it could be many things.
But like I said, it could be many things.
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101 Posts
I literally have the exact same issue, long crank times random times throughout the day. I ordered a fuel pump and send her assembly and also have a fuel filter ready to be installed so I will be changing both of those items out since my car is 10+ years old and it probably is original. After that I'm going to check the sensors that were posted above and after that I am going to check for vacuum leaks.
I had this issue and mine turned out to be the coil inside the ignition where you insert the key. A good friend removed the ignition piece, re-wound new coil, and re-installed. Been 2 years with no issue. Since it seems you have chased most other issues, may be worth a shot. Good luck
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