E46 Fanatics Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I have a bit of a locking issue. The keyfob works to lock the car, pop the trunk, and will blink the lights/turn on the dome light when I click unlock but WILL NOT unlock the car. The button for the locks inside doesn't work for either. I had an idea that it was the GM5 module, but Scott from bmwgm5.com says it doesn't sound like that's likely. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,579 Posts
Hey guys,

I have a bit of a locking issue. The keyfob works to lock the car, pop the trunk, and will blink the lights/turn on the dome light when I click unlock but WILL NOT unlock the car. The button for the locks inside doesn't work for either. I had an idea that it was the GM5 module, but Scott from bmwgm5.com says it doesn't sound like that's likely. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!
You should have added in your post that it's a coupe. Coupes have a higher probability of actuator failure than sedans or wagons and unlock problems are typically solid and not intermittent. General module problems are typically intermittent. You said "...WILL NOT unlock the car". You did not say, sometimes won't unlock or most of the time it doesn't work, but, once in a while it does. Therefore most likely the actuator(s) are bad and probably isn't a general module problem.

Could just be the button on the fob for unlock is fuxed.
OP said the dome light turns on when unlock button is pressed so it's not a key fob problem.

The two weak relays on your GM5 module are acting up, and nothing wrong with your key fob.

Who's Scott? is he Scottjoh? if it was him, I doult that he would say it was not a GM5 problem.
OP is talking about me. I doubt it's the relays or anything related to the general module. It's a coupe and it's not intermittent so it's probably the actuator(s). I say what I think it is based on my experience. I'm not trying to sell everybody with door lock problems on my GM service. I'm not like that. I turn away nearly 50% of coupe/convertible owners that call me based on their symptoms.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
28,893 Posts
Agree that coupes/verts likely have far more actuator related problems due to the large mass of the door pounding on the door lock actuator.

Convertibles may be even worse due to the lack of interior air back pressure dampening the closing of the door. To top either being open and/or the top expanding outward when the door is closed.

I have a VW Beetle convertible and it is on the 3rd door latch in each door due to the solder joints inside the latches getting cracked and broken because of the size and weight of the door and how they continually get slammed. Most of the latches were replaced under warranty, otherwise I would have likely repaired them vs replacing them.

I have not tried to disassemble and inspect a BMW door lock actuator at this point, however, the problem may likely be broken or cracked solder joints for connector terminals or small micro switch solder joints? Possibly problems with micro switches if they have them inside the actuator.

If anyone has an old BMW door lock actuator, it would be interesting to take it apart to see if the problem is with solder joints and if the actuators could be reasonably repaired vs replacement??

These problems may be able to be repaired rather than replacing the actuator??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
698 Posts
Scottjoh, I have one question, if the door actuator is bad, is it using the key fob to unlock the door will not open for that bad actuator door only but is still be opened the other good door? and it is very unlikely that both door actuators for the coup were bad at the same time.

I mean the 2nd press on the key fob.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top