It is called Liqui Moly Pro-Line engine flush.

I guess it does help, but don't expect miracles, especially if your engine has been burning a lot of oil for a long time. It is safe, cheap, and easy enough to do, so there are no downsides in adding two 500 ml cans to the crankcase just before oil change.

I have tried both Liqui Moly and BG EPR engine flush products without any improvement, probably because I didn't catch the issue early enough. But do search for a post by MrMcar, where he describes how he managed to clean the oil control rings of an oil guzzling engine with Liqui Moly engine flush, letting it idle for eight hours - way longer than the recommended 15 min.

 

I was referring to this, not the flush.

 

Turner Motor Sports has that on sale this week for $41.95.
2332 - Liqui-Moly Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40 Engine Oil - 5 Liter | Turner Motorsport

 

Liqui Moly is a brand of lubricants. They have a good 5w40. So do other brands.

If you want to get serious, you can learn how to read the technical data sheets and compare them. Having done so, I decided Motul X-MAX 0w40 would be even better for my usage. Your usage may vary.

As a bonus, the Motul was less expensive. Liqui Moly might be the most expensive, but that doesn't mean it's the best.

 

This is a very good oil for the price, but also don't expect much of a difference.

I thought for a car still burning less than a quart of oil per 1K miles, the engine flush before oil change may be worth it, not so much once it gets to burn faster than this.

 

I think I will give the flush a try.

After the flush would it be acceptable to use an oil extractor? I've been using one for years due to the previous owner over tightening the drain plug. I got the drain plug to stop leaking about 4 years ago and haven't touched it since. I use an extractor through the dipstick.

 

I agree that the oil alone will not fix the ring issue. I had a 2001 325 that used a quart about every 450 miles that had a steady diet of LiquiMoly. A fresh change would make it close to 1,000 miles, but after that is was back to consumption as usual. It is good oil, it keeps deposit buildup down, but it will not remove that level of deposits without help.

 

Read MrMCar’s procedure for a proper engine flush in this forum. It’s a lot more than a quick fill/drain, but he’s had good results cleaning piston rings and reducing oil consumption.

 

I’m a regular on Bob Is The Oil Guy (BITOG). LM oils tend to have a high NOACK (evaporation) numbers. That is, the oils tend to evaporate quicker than other oils.

OP, how many miles is the typical drive?

 

I’m a regular on Bob Is The Oil Guy (BITOG). LM oils tend to have a high NOACK (evaporation) numbers. That is, the oils tend to evaporate quicker than other oils.

OP, how many miles is the typical drive?

It's interesting. For me the standard for oil consumption are a couple of BMW engines, one of which is the venerable m54. We find consumption to be least when using either Fuchs or Liqui Moly in a 5-40 weight. LL-01

For me it's a mathematical equation; Save $5 to 10 per oil change or replace the cats at some point.
That's me however, looking at the bigger picture.

 

Well - a number of Indy shops I know use it very successfully for Porsche and they moved to using it in BMWs. I have done the engine flush, since I have an early E46, and then Liqui Moly and it does seem to have helped. I want to do the engine flush a couple more times and use the oil and then re-check the usage.

 

I want to comment on your 300SD, I have an 81 garage queen with 41K original miles that I inherited from my dad as I loved that car from the first day he bought it brand new.

I am sure others will chime in about LM as I am interested to hear the feedback.

 

Would love to see her! I actually sold my 300SD this past June. After it being in the family for 39 years, it was time to part ways. She sat more than she ran. I sold it to a dude who was so excited. He has since painted it and is slowly fixing the hvac system. The nice part is, she lives a town over so I get to see her whenever I want (that was part of the sales agreement)

 

LM proline engine flush for sure. It’s worked for me on my M54 and M272. Now both don’t consume oil in their 10k OCIs.

 

Not sure if anyone has watched “project farm” on YouTube but he had an amazing series of testing different oils. I believe Liqui Moly ranked pretty low


Sent from my iPhone using E46Fanatics

 

I'll look for the engine flush procedure and give it a whirl.

 

If anyone has the mrMcar link handy, that'd be awesome.

 

See post # 18

E46 330ci - Excessive oil consumption and smoke

Heyo, Just looking for advice as I have looked around every post and haven't had much luck. I am experiencing very heavy oil consumption as well as a blueish whiteish smoke coming from the exhaust. Around 1L/100km of oil with using both 5w30 and 10w40. There is still vacuum within the...

www.e46fanatics.com

 

There was something just last week about soaking the rings to dislodge carbon buildup

 

I saw that one, something about using some harsh chemical from Russia (Putin's concentrated piss). I think I'll stick to something more light lol

 

Without saying too much that could get me in trouble with past/current sponsors and pat/current employers, LiquiMoly and Mobil 1 have been the best oils I've used. Full disclosure, I work for a racing team sponsored by LiquiMoly and I use it in my 330i as well as the racecars. With my previous employer, we tried Castrol, Motul, Amazon (I know), Shell, and Mobil 1 in the cars. Mobil 1 was by far the best for long term life in those cars, and Motul was what we had the most issues with.

 

I didn't expect it at all, but I saw significant reduction in oil consumption with the Liqui Moly Leichtlauf specifically. I did not do a flush and had used the standard Liqui Moly before with no such improvement. Try it and report back.

 

I'll give MrMCars method a try. I got nothing to lose.

 

I've done the Liqui Moly flush once before, wondering if I should do it again and leave it idling for really long like @MrMCar.

 

Most of the LM oils are made of hydrocracked dino oil, and not group 4 or 5 base stock. What’s that mean? LM takes crude oil and breaks down the polymer chains (that’s what oil is made of) into small sections. It then reassembles some of those small sections into the oil base stock. German law prevent a company from representing a product like this as being “synthetic.” US law does allow a company to call a product with this type of base stock as being “synthetic.” Most “synthetic” oils sold in the US are have base stocks that are either hydrocracked oil or made from natural gas. BMW oil is made by Shell from natural gas.

 

A couple of thoughts:

That hydrocracked oil and the US regulations. This was a big court case of Pennzoil, Castrol and Mobil. Some 20-30 years ago.
Multiple technical chemical engineers presented mountains of data trying to convey to the court about the difference between hydrocracked oil stock VS: that of one that started life as a pure synthetic. After a very long case the judge surmised (and thanked the presenters for their long and boring talks) while he could see the argument, at the end of the day, he could not see the difference in the finished product.
The very next day the two losers started hydrocracking oil for synthetic labeling.

BMW has again switched suppliers and has moved away from Shell and has returned once again to Castrol. Personally I did like the Shell product. made from very clean Gulf region propane.
I think Shell got tired of loosing money by producing oil to a "price point"?

Many purists would only pour in a group 5 pure synthetic into their cars. Now that we're some 20 years later with research and advances not only in oil stocks, but also the additive packages, it no longer matters to me.

What makes oils from either Fuchs and/or Liqui Moly superior to me is that they work in the back yards of the German auto manufacturers. L-M has developed oils to solve issues with consumption and LSPI on German designed engines.
IMO a slight advantage to the guy that owns a German engine car.

 

I don't think that will work. The cleaner works suspended in oil, getting hot and actively cleaning.

 

+1. This type of soaking, regardless of the solvent applied, would mostly work for carbon on top of the pistons, wouldn't do much for deposits on the oil control rings.

 

Not sure if it's been mentioned yet, but sometimes it's just valve stem seals. Cylinder 6 on my m54b25 has a valve stem seal leak or two, there's oil on that spark plug tip but not in the other cylinders

 

I will share my story. 2 years ago, after buying a car, I decided to change all the fluids ... before changing the oil, I decided to clean my piston rings for the purpose of prevention ... I was sure that this had not been done before. I had experience using this product on a motorcycle and I was pleased with the result.
I didn't know if there was oil consumption in my m52b20tu at that time...it's been 2 years now and the oil stays at the same mark on the dipstick every change. 302600km today. I advise you to find a similar tool or look for this manufacturer. After treatment, thick white smoke came out of the exhaust for about 5 minutes ... it seems to me that it cleans well!

Produced by Xado Verylube. Briefly give a description and method of application.
Description
The product is designed for decoking piston rings of 32 cylinders (320 ml bottle, 10 ml per cylinder)

CHARACTERISTICS:

Restores ring mobility
Reduces oil consumption
Deletes pollution of cylinders and pistons, the combustion chamber, valves from a deposit, coke, varnishes, pitches
Equalizes compression across cylinders
Reduces engine noise
Removes deposits from spark plugs (glow)
Reduces the level of harmful emissions into the atmosphere
Safe on catalytic converters, oxygen sensors, rubber products and seals
Can be used to flush the engine oil system
APPLICATION

Step 1: Warm up the engine. The motor must be warm, but not hot.

2nd stage: Unscrew the candles (nozzles). Disconnect ignition distribution sensor connector, hall sensor or switch

3rd stage: Add 10 ml. in turn to each cylinder. Screw the candles back. Wait 10-20 min. Unscrew the candles. Cover the spark plug holes with an absorbent cloth so that flying dirt does not get on the paint. Crank the engine over with the starter for a few seconds.

4th stage: Install candles (injectors) in place

Stage 5: Start the engine and ensure its operation at an increased crankshaft speed for up to 15 minutes. During this time, the remaining softened coke will be removed through the exhaust system.

To flush the engine oil system:

Introduce the agent into the oil filler neck of a warm engine at the rate of 40 ml of the composition per 3–5 liters of oil

Ensure the engine is idling for 10-15 minutes

Change oil and oil filter


NOTES:

Avoid contact with paintwork

DOSAGE

1 cylinder - 10 ml.

 

i also owned a 300SD for decades. over 400k miles without a rebuild or major service of any kind. body panels and other cosmetic parts just became too expensive to justify keeping car, so retired it. could have gone to 600k miles easily. it did consume oil though, and i had tried the liquimoly method to decrease oil use. no luck. thicker oil did work, since i live in a warm climate. a rebuild would have been better, solution and i was meaning to do it since i passed 300K. car kept running problem free though.

as for your e46, i'm not sure liquimoly will make a noticaeble improvement.