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Ok so I have a 2004 BMW 325i with the auto adjusting bixenon headlights. The headlights are wired way differently then any diagram or schematic I have found this far. The DRL's are not using the halogen bulbs, but rather the bixenon's. In fact the ONLY time the halogen inner bulbs work is when you pull back the "flash to pass" switch. I've talked to several other technicians and some have said that, "that's simply how it came stock." However I refuse to believe that BMW decided, "let's just throw some useless friggen lights in the ***** to confuse the hell out of the customer and we can charge 'Em more and laugh." That said, the bixenon lights whether on bright or dimmed are still dim as f***. Can anyone shine some light on this issue for me??? No pun intended...

About ready to hack into the wiring harness and splice the halogen DRL's to come on with the bixenon's which is how I would figure the damn thing should have been off the lot.
 

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I have a 2002 M3 with bi-xenons. you have auto leveling control (newer car). The way that the bi-xenons, the halogens, and fog lights work is all controlled by coding in the light control module. There are quite a few different ways that things can be coded. Different markets around the world have different regulations about automotive lighting... I can tell you what I know about the available coding options for my car (I'm pretty sure they will either be exactly the same for your car (or VERY close).

I have never done any of this programming (frankly, I'm nervous that I'll click something wrong in the software and "brick" modules in my car), but I have been researching the lighting programming options for my car because I also feel it is pretty stupid to have these lovely inner halogens only function for flash to pass. I started researching it because I thought my car was broken! I installed angel eyes/halos and I was standing in front of the car and I had my son changing the headlights from low to high beam so I could see how it looked with the angel eye rings. Well, when he turned on the high-beams I saw a short burst from the halogens as the xenons opened up to full beam... I thought somehow I had broken something when I installed the halos... Nope... This is how it is SUPPOSED to function.

Anyway, Here goes:
Fog light options:
Stock US programming -- Fog lights will only be able to be turned on if either the (parking/marker) lights or the low-beams are on
Changes that can be programmed: (1) Can be programmed to enable fogs to be turned on without other lights on. (2) Can be programmed to allow fogs to STAY ON when high-beams are activated

DRL options:
Not sure what is stock, but options are (1) no DRL, (2) Halogen DRL, and seemingly based on your post (though I haven't heard this before) (3) Xenon DRL

High-Beam options:
Stock US programming: Xenon shutters open for high-beam. Halogens DO NOT ILLUMINATE (actually they give a tiny blip of light with you turn on the high-beams... It's like a tease...hey look at me... I CAN get power but nope...Not gonna light up!)
Change that can be programmed is to make the Halogens come on along with the Xenon shutter open. I'm sure you can probably make the shutter not open so that the high-beams are halogen only, but I don't know why anyone would want to do this.

Flash to Pass (pulling left stalk toward you):
Stock US Programming: Halogens illuminate with no regard to what other lights are doing (obviously you can't have high beam switch activated and flash to pass at same time since it uses same stalk in two different directions).
I read somewhere on another forum that it is possible to make the bi-xenon high beam activate with flash to pass either along with or instead of the halogens.
 

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I have a 2004 330i with the bi-xenon lights and had the same problem. Those "flash to pass" lights are just that, they do NOT come on at any other time. The Bi-xenon lights in our year model and older had a fatal flaw, the projector bowls were made of a material that melted over time due to the high temp of the Xenon bulbs. Bad news is BMW won't recall them, more bad news, they are about $1200 each; GOOD NEWS, Lightwerkz does a projector replacement for about $600 for both lights. I just had mine done last week and they are better than new! Talk to Caesar at Lightwerkz.com. All you do is remove your headlight assemblies (4 screws and about 30 minutes), then have UPS package them and mail them to Lightwerkz. Depending on where you are located (I am in Virginia Beach, it took 4 days) you get them back pretty quick. Re-install them and do a quick alignment on them (5 minutes) and you are back in business. The $600 I mentioned earlier is shipping and everything. Good luck.
 
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