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Left rear output shaft bolt head broken

682 Views 30 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  325TI_Compact
Hi all,

Today I was attempting to remove left output shaft for replacing wheel bearing. Too bad these bolts have never been removed in 20 years, totally seized and impact did not help. Stupid me, I ook a long bar and try to remove, due of this action top of bolt head is snapped. Any suggestions?

Thank you very much.

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mmm, I don't know. I remember when I wanted to remove my shaft when I broke the head, I could easily remove it from the car, with the threads still in the flange. I'm not really sure what you mean. You mean there is not enough space to move the shaft?
Thanks.
I mean in case all heads are broken.
There will still bolts in shaft flange and diff flang

I can't move shaft flange to left as far to slide downwards to separate, when bolts bolts are still there.

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I know, but not enough room to remove shaft when bolts are still attached.
mm, I think you really can. Maybe just a bit of wiggling around. Especially if it is only one bolt without a head which is still in the flange. Otherwise you could try loosening some of the suspension components like the shock absorber to create a bit more space. For the other ones try to slowly loosen them up. If they break, they break, there will not be another way.
Thanks, then I will snapped all bolts or cut head off. They are really rusted.....
Happened to me too when I was rebuilding rear axle but I did have the whole subframe removed from the car on the ground. However this has to work for you too. Take an angle grinder and cut off all the heads of the bolts flush with the CV shaft. Then you unbolt the diff and you will be able to separate the CV shaft from the bolts (now you turned them basically to studs hahaha). Removing the diff isn’t that big of a deal, but maybe that’s just me. That bolts are made out of clay! And if you have a welder you can try the method that guys posted above, where you weld a nut on the bolt. The heat from welding does some trick too.
Edit: the stuck studs went out super easily using wrench in the picture.
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Stupid me; took a long bar and try to remove, due of this action bolt top of bolt head is snapped.
I think you stripped the Torx head, not snapped off. Did you get the socket on the bolt head snug and tight during the work, or kind of loose?

In this case, with rusted bolt, I would use the impact driver with a Torx socket and hammer on the bolt, but make sure the driver is set in the CCW direction correctly:
The hammering action will loosen the bolt threads and it will eventually turn.


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I hope the left bearing will work, until I have time to swapped complete rear axle.

No part of head snapped off, still left in torx socket.
I did use air impact even that no bolts loosened.
I did use air impact even that no bolts loosened.
Use the impact driver with hammer instead.
I have used that, but the garage did have a bigger/stronger one to try out....
Anyway.....
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