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Discussion Starter #61
We just updated the DME software on OP’s car to the latest. Then started the engine and let it come up to full temperature. Here is what I saw using INPA:
  • pre-cat O2 sensors were very responsive at cold start
  • idle was rock solid at 700 RPM
  • both STFTs were excellent (staying between -1% and +2%)
  • MAF value was correct at 11.5 kg/hr (3.2 g/s)
I verified the AT->MT coding was correct (his 2001 325i has ZCS) by making sure both IKE and EWS had modified GM part of the ZCS.

He later verified the pre-cat O2 sensors are not crossed-connected.

I’d like to see an OBD Fusion Diagnostic Report at hot idle after a few days of driving it normally.
Thank you Bali! I will post the logs, I will be driving for 30 minutes on Saturday 2 ways, that should give more than enough data.

So far driving 10 minutes to and from work, it seems all good.

I will also check the manifold caps and post-cat sensors on Saturday to make sure all is in order.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
So far driving 10 minutes to and from work, it seems all good.

I will also check the manifold caps and post-cat sensors on Saturday to make sure all is in order.
Ha! Spoke too soon, looks like the adaptations settled and the lean code is back. Tomorrow I will investigate the caps and post cat sensors and update the thread.

Car still feels amazing, cold start is also amazing, seems as though I’ll be changing that battery just in case too, As you mentioned Bali. Don’t need it dying on my 2kmile drive that’s coming up soon.
 

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2004 330Ci 85k miles
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Maybe time for another smoke test?
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Maybe time for another smoke test?
I’ll do that tomorrow too, I used that thread for my previous 4 smoke test. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Ah, I missed that. Well, more smoke tests often reveal more problems. Ha!
No worries, it does make more sense to do a quick smoke test rather than disassembling some of the bay to check those manifold caps. That way I can check if anything else spring a leak in the last 3 weeks.
 

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No worries, it does make more sense to do a quick smoke test rather than disassembling some of the bay to check those manifold caps. That way I can check if anything else spring a leak in the last 3 weeks.
You can inspect the vacuum caps on the back of the intake manifold with a mirror and light.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
You can inspect the vacuum caps on the back of the intake manifold with a mirror and light.
🤦 this is true.... did not even think about that........ I’m going to go in a corner and re-think my life now...... I even have a mirror for that type of stuff, but I didn’t think about it.


I could also check the vacuum hoses to the SAP check valve Solenoid that I changed and make sure they are good.

Thanks! You all are life and time savers.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Smoke tested the car, found the slightest, smallest leak at that brake booster one way valve, (the sucking jet pump. 11617545382). I have swapped it out with the revised one about 2 months ago with one off of the 2004 parts car I have, because the original one was leaking too. Guess it’s time to invest in a new one haha.

I also found my dip stick tube leaking oil, even though I replaced that about 10 months ago... but at least I have found the issue before it becomes a real problem. Any advice on the type of o-ring I use? This one was oem from the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Forgot to add, I also did check the post cat O2’s, I was having a tough time finding which connector is bank 2 and which is bank 1.
I will be checking that today again using a live monitor.

Yesterday heavy rain hit so I had to quickly reassemble the car while changing the oil dipstick tube seal, that was successful, I ordered the sucking jet pump from FCP, waiting for it to arrive.

Other than the jet pump the smoke test was a success, the intake manifold caps are not leaking and the SAP check valve hoses are routed correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Update time!! Again...

TL;DR change sucking jet pump, still testing. Dipstick tube o-ring is not leaking anymore.

Okay, I replace the sucking jet pump. It was a living nightmare without removing the intake manifold. As per previous post, the oil dipstick o-ring was replaced, checked after about 80 miles of driving and its bone dry.

I have not driven the car as of yet. I will update this thread when I find out if the problem is resolved or not.

If it’s not I think that I should look closer at the O2’s, it’s entirely possibly that it could be defective, even if their Bosch and has under 8k miles on them, I will also check my DME connections for rust or water anywhere, even though the update went smoothly. It’s for peace of mind.

I would like to take a minute and thank everyone with their input and expertise. Any advice is always welcome and very helpful!

EDIT: Also, I didn’t add that I double and triple checked the post cat O2’s, they have been correctly plugged in, thank you Bali for the obdfusion advice, it made it so much easier to check those.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
New development now.

Got the P0174 code again, bank 2. This time at idle, not the usual 2500 RPM. This time, I didn’t only check OBDfusion, but I also checked BMWScanner, not the best tool for the purpose, but it showed some more shadow codes which point to O2 sensor heaters.

After the latest jobs I did do a smoke test and there was 0 smoke, so the only things left are these O2’s... could it be? Even though they are just 8 - 10 months old? (I should have changed them when I changed my catalytic converters 3 months ago)

Here is a terrible photo... sorry!
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Ha!!!

Eureka! SES light got triggered again and P0154 and P0174 codes popped up. Finally.

Bank 2 sensor 1 is down for the count. I cannot believe it. But I guess I’m going to be swapping both pre-cat sensors.

Would it be advisable to do that before an 1800 mile drive?
And I am assuming Bosch is the brand to go with?

Thank you!
 

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2003 330cic, 2003 325iT
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I just had a thought, I did replace my cats not too long ago, what if I swapped both O2’s on both banks?

So basically both O2’s on bank 1 are reading bank 2 and vice versa? - I did make sure I used the rope trick and made sure that they plugged in the same way, but I could have made a mistake...

Is there an easy way to check this?
Unplug one, start the car and monitor that bank. Make sure the bank that is still connected is reading as the correct bank in the OBD tool
 

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Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
Unplug one, start the car and monitor that bank. Make sure the bank that is still connected is reading as the correct bank in the OBD tool
I did that and there are correctly reading/updating.

I did it for the post-cat sensors too which are also correctly monitoring.

This is to check if bank1 sensor is connected to bank one connection right?

EDIT: sorry I didn’t notice you quoted my question on how to check O2 connections... sorry!!! I did that test already. 2 times to be sure and all 4 O2’s are correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Also, check fuel pressure with engine off, key in #2 position. Not with engine on. Should read 50psi.

then turn the key off and wait 30 mins. Should still be 50
Key in position #2, it’s definitely getting 50 PSI, with the key off and after 15 - 20 minutes the pressure goes down to 43 psi. (Did this test last week, should I do it again?)

This pump and fuel filter are about 6 - 7 months old though, Bosch (PN: 67896) pump + assembly. Fuel filter is Mahle KL 149.
Also new fuel assembly gasket (OEM from dealer).

You reckon I have a fuel pump issue? When I first got it, it tested the exact same way as I mentioned above.
 

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2003 330cic, 2003 325iT
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Holding pressure is the fuel filter (it has the pressure regulator). But would be strange if it were failing that quickly

here is a good post by @jfoj on the subject:

 

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Discussion Starter #79
Holding pressure is the fuel filter (it has the pressure regulator). But would be strange if it were failing that quickly

here is a good post by @jfoj on the subject:

I’ve been suspect of my injectors leaking at the manifold to be honest.

Since it’s a new OEm fuel filter and a Bosch pump, I cannot see it being the line side of the rail. (Just thinking out loud)

I read through the first post, I’ll read that whole thread a little later (time crunch).
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Just read through the thread and I am not sure what to make of it, 2 people commented about the pressure ranges that are indicative of a good fuel filter and pump, one of them I fit into.
50 psi at idle and key in position 2
~43 psi after 20 minutes of ignition off. (The gauge looks like it’s actually 45psi).

Could this mean I have a leaky injector then? Or would it be my filter regulator?
Since I got an O2 voltage code, wouldn’t that mean my O2 is bad?

This is only happening on bank2. So it could be a leaky injector on bank 2? And/or O2 pre cat on bank 2.

I don’t really want to start Willy nilly replacing parts if I don’t need to, sorry about the many questions. I just want to make sure I understand before I start spending money and time on new parts.

Thanks!!
 
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