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1K views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  themachine2047 
#1 ·
I've owned my 330Ci vert for a year. The car has 96k miles on it. When I changed out the AC compressor, I noticed that I have an oil leak. There wasn't any oil on the ground because the splash shield was catching everything.

There is weeping around the oil pan as well as lots of oil collected on the control arms, and axle boots (not sure what these are called?).

I'm guessing my oil pan gasket is leaking but do you think there is another leak?

Thanks

oil collected on various lines running underneath the engine.
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oil weeping around the oil pan.
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Is this the axle boot? Looks like there's oil here too. I think the splash shield wraps around these rubber things right where you see the oil. Maybe the oil is dripping down the splash shield and collecting on these rubber things on the axle?
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Another shot of the oil pan and things below the block.
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My front control arms have oil on them too.
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#2 ·
To find the leak you need to look from the top down. Look by where the oil filter housing mounts to the block for oil

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Look at the waffle texture beside the housing block. Lots of things in the way but you should be able to get line of sight.

Either way, at 92k miles if the ofhg hasn’t been done it is leaking. Oil pans usually leak slower and take longer to develop.
 
#4 ·
I'd clean up things well with any of various methods and see what you end up with.

A leak doesn't make you a bad person...not that you're not. :)

Only leaks you 'really' need to worry about are coolant and brake fluid. Oil and PS fluid can be easily monitor and replaced...lots of leaks are possible. Doubt you only have one, but don't panic yet...save that for electrical issues. :)
 
#10 ·
Thanks. Didn't realize the dowel could come out. I double checked and I think 1/4-1/3 of the threads are left intact. Do you think it's worth a try to just put it back together as-is? I would just hand tighten it. Do you think it would leak or damage the block (vibrations from motor and fewer threads)?

Worst case, I can remove the dowel and install a helicoil but I'd rather not take that risk unless necessary. People on that other thread also suggested getting a longer bolt because the hole is threaded longer than the original bolt. I could get a bolt 5mm longer and maybe try that to have more strength.

Thanks for your help.
 
#11 ·
You havent got much to lose trying a longer bolt. I’d use that along with some blue threadlock and handtighten.

Just make sure the bolt isn’t so long it bottoms out. I guess for this the bolt just holds the two metal pieces together, it doesn’t actually clamp down on the gasket.

Just make sure both surfaces are spotless, any dirt or debris in the way will affect how well the metal clamps together, and you’ll need all the help you can get with low torque
 
#13 ·
You havent got much to lose trying a longer bolt. I’d use that along with some blue threadlock and handtighten.

Just make sure the bolt isn’t so long it bottoms out. I guess for this the bolt just holds the two metal pieces together, it doesn’t actually clamp down on the gasket.

Just make sure both surfaces are spotless, any dirt or debris in the way will affect how well the metal clamps together, and you’ll need all the help you can get with low torque
Use a vernier caliper to measure. Or a screw driver, etc
 
#16 ·
Update 6.28.23

I didn't end up using the extra bolt. Just left it off and the ofhg does not leak anymore. It's been holding fine for about 10k miles now. If it starts to leak again, I'll take it to have new threads tapped cause I'm not gonna tap threads myself on an engine block having little experience tapping threads. I can't let my first experience be on an engine block.

I did the oil pan gasket and the oil pump fastener.

I also replaced my steering rack with a rebuilt zhp tag rack. Replaced inner and outer tie rods as well. I'm also overhauling the hoses and reservoir with stainless steel ones from chase bays.
 
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