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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For the past few months the steering has been ultra lazy on the ZHP. The car also pulls as if the alignment is off. Feels like my dad's old chrysler caravan. You turn 15 degrees and the car decides about .5 seconds later it'll turn too. My local trusted indie shop checked the bushings, alignment, and other connections and said he couldn't find anything. Said it was the tires but I've had 3 sets of wheels/tires on the car with the same result.

Any insight? I've now tried 1 dealership and 2 indie shops to no avail. One says tires, another says its alignment, another says this is normal. Kia Forte rentals drive better than my car...

Thanks
 

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I heard the steering guibo could be the problem.

if the car pulls, theres something wrong with the alignment.
 

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+2 for the steering guibo. $43 from getbmwparts.com and made a WORLD of difference to my car.

It's a pretty common problem. My 325i had the exact same problem and I replaced control arms, control arm bushings, and tie rods with no significant improvement. Car got total after that and I picked up a 330i with the same problem. Decided to swap the steering guibo first and for the first time in 5 years...I have no more pulling from the steering wheel and the steering seems more responsive as well.
 

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Your mechanic likely doesn't know what he is talking about. Seems like your car has tons of suspension related problems. How many miles are on your car?

Don't forget that worn rear trailing arm bushings can and WILL directly affect your car's response to turning. In 3rd gear around 50 mph, mash the gas and tell me if your back end darts to one side. It should be solid.

As far as the front end, worn balljoints in your control arms or tierods can be blamed.

Usually though, this is a symptom of worn control arm bushings. I'd be willing to bet 99% that this is the cause of your problems (along w/ needing a proper alignment)

If you have 30-50k+ on your control arm bushings, then replace them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The car has 79K at the moment. I bought it at 45K and doubt the CABs were replaced prior.

I'll start with the guibo and make my way to the CABs and not go to the mechanic.
 

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The car has 79K at the moment. I bought it at 45K and doubt the CABs were replaced prior.

I'll start with the guibo and make my way to the CABs and not go to the mechanic.
Negative. you're starting with the most complicated part (relatively speaking) to replace. Replace the control arm bushings first. they're very easy to do.

The steering guibo is nice, but is mainly exagerrated on the forums. I replaced one on my E36 M3 with 130k miles after fully rebuilding the front suspension and noticed NO difference whatsoever.
 

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Wouldn't the easiest solution to be to jack the car up and examine these componenets? Then you can more readily determine which needs replacement the soonest.

From the severity of your problem, I would definitely at least look at the steering guibo. It'll ruin your day if it ever fails on the interstate...
 

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Negative. you're starting with the most complicated part (relatively speaking) to replace. Replace the control arm bushings first. they're very easy to do.

The steering guibo is nice, but is mainly exagerrated on the forums. I replaced one on my E36 M3 with 130k miles after fully rebuilding the front suspension and noticed NO difference whatsoever.
I don't know about that...the steering guibo is a pretty easy job to tackle. Lock the steering wheel,unbolt undercarraige splashguard, undo two bolts on the steering guibo, take off old guibo, pop new one on. CABs require more brute force to get them onto the control arm.

But, Icoleman is right...it's better to actually jack the car up and examine these parts rather than to throw parts at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sweet, thanks guys! At least I now have some ideas on my differential diagnosis which I will tackle once I'm back to my garage with jack stands and tools.
 
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