BMW E46 Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello fanatics- My name is Justin and this is going to be a build/project/journal thread to document the progression of my newly acquired 2002 330i.

89,000 miles, 5-speed MT, m-tech 1 aero, bone stock and the price was right... good enough for me.





After my e36 was totaled by a careless driver I was quickly in the market for another BMW and luckily found this rust-free gem in Orlando, Florida. My brother (evanr614) and I booked a couple flights, had a PPI done, stayed with a friend in the area and after a couple days in the heat we drove her home to Ohio.

As with any 14 year-old car, a fair amount of maintenance was expected/planned. So here we go...

First things first, replaced the deteriorated windshield cowl and installed a new cabin air filter & intake filter.



Fresh fluids and belts were next. Redline ATF for the power steering and BMW for everything else. I still need to purchase manual transmission fluid.



I went with Continental for the belts.



For bleeding the brakes/clutch, I highly recommend the Motive pressure bleeder. It makes the process so easy.


Next was the notoriously weak cooling system of older BMW's. Without any knowledge of its age, everything was going to be replaced.
-Behr radiator/expansion tank
-Brass bleeder screw
-Rein upper/lower radiator hoses
-OEM auxiliary fan switch
-Wahle Thermostat
-Stewart water pump (taken from the e36)




I replaced the idler pulley and main belt tensioner/pulley with relatively new parts I had on the e36. But I did purchase a new AC belt tensioner & pulley.




To any of you with the hydraulic belt tensioners, I personally recommend swapping that T50 torx bolt with a standard hex-head bolt (M10x1.5x25). Maybe i need a better set of torx sockets but I feel the torx are more prone to stripping.


The biggest concern found in the pre-purchase inspection was the leaky CCV/hoses, so I ordered the pre-assembled cold-weather kit from ECS Tuning and got to work.



As for the install, I decided to go for the "stress-free" method and remove the intake manifold so I didnt come away with bloody hands and all pissed off. Yet I still ended up with bloody hands and pissed off. :banghead:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDP8Dma0nUs

During the CCV replacement I thoroughly cleaned the MAF sensor, idle-control valve & throttle body and got them to look/function like new. I also took the time to replace all the vacuum hoses behind the intake manifold.

It was around this time that I realized the DISA valve was lookin really gross. It looked like someone tried to use clear silicon to seal the edges which left quite a mess. :hmm:





I already had a DISA rebuild kit coming from vanos-bmw.com so this was no big deal.



That clear “membrane”/suction cup thing never actually made its way into my DISA valve because I felt like I was going to break the plastic trying to remove the cap for it.

While I had all that space opened up from removing the manifold I went ahead and took care of the oil filter housing gasket and all the power steering hoses/reservoir as preventative maintenance. I even went a little overboard and replaced both the oil temperature/pressure sensors (on the OFH) as well as the coolant temperature sensor (on the engine block) ... and of course the leaky VANOS oil hose.








The valve cover gasket was another area that needed attention. The spark plugs and boots were also changed at this time.



Realoem gave me the part number for that oil-fill cap gasket but I couldn't seem to figure it out...

Based on the BMW logo and the amount of gunk, I would have to guess the car still had the original plugs :eek:



There was actually a fair amount of oil in the bottom of cylinder #3 and oddly enough, this cylinder was the only one with an NGK spark plug too... so I’ll have to keep an eye on that and hope it was just the gasket and not something worse.



With the valve-cover off, I took the time to complete the Beisan Systems VANOS seal kit and rattle kit.










After being under the car for a while, I noticed one corner of the oil pan seemed to leak even without running the engine.



So I bought a new gasket and gave myself an excuse to use the Rally Road "secured oil pump nut" I had originally bought for my e36. But first I took the oil pan to the quarter-carwash and gave it a nice cleaning.








I thought a small suspension refresh would help bring this car back to its former glory so I got a ZHP lemforder kit from FCP Euro. Tie-rods & motor mounts were just replaced by the PO or I would've done those too. I plan on tackling the RTABs and rear control arm ball joints in the future (which will most likely turn into a complete rear-subframe overhaul). I know the diff bushing needs replaced for sure.




Tranmission mounts were tearing so I took care of that while I was down there. Also saw that the driveshaft guibo looked almost new so I don't think I'll be replacing that anytime soon.






I still need to pick up a fuel pump but BMA parts was out of stock last I checked. In the meantime, I can still put in the new fuel filter.




-----------------------------------------------------

IN CONCLUSION, everything you see above took about two weeks of my time, including several days I didn't work on the car. That's a lot of time but I think I've turned this 330i into an extremely fun daily driver that won't leave me on the side of the road (knock on wood). Not to mention I must've saved THOU$AND$ in labor costs... and I owe a lot of that to the e46fanatics community and the information I've received here so thank you very much. :thumbsup:

-----------------------------------------------------
 

·
Premium Member
2016 340i & 2002 325Ci
Joined
·
3,277 Posts
Glad to see it went to a good home, I was really tempted to buy this car when it was for sale. Nice work.

Also, how difficult was the oil pan gasket? I need to do this at the same time I do my control arms and motor mounts next week.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,256 Posts
Love these threads. Congrats.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Glad to see it went to a good home, I was really tempted to buy this car when it was for sale. Nice work.

Also, how difficult was the oil pan gasket? I need to do this at the same time I do my control arms and motor mounts next week.
I knew the car would sell quick if I didn't scoop it up haha. As for the oil pan, it kinda surprised me how easy it was. It will be especially easy for you with the control arms removed.

The procedure is straight forward but here are some additional tips:

1. you can get away with only disconnecting the sway bar brackets but take the extra 10 minutes to completely remove it. if you dont, I guarantee you'll hit your head on it at least once and you'll have more clearance with it out of there.

2. get some bungee cords to hold the power steering pump up and out of the way. this will help with putting any extra stress on the pump's hoses.

3. before you start torquing down the pan bolts, just get a couple in there loosely and then torque down the 3 E10 bolts in the back. I think it was 20 Nm

4. use little pieces of duct tape to number each of the 25 bolts in a good pattern (similar pattern to valve cover nuts- side to side, starting in the middle). This way you wont lose your place and miss torquing a bolt. I torqued the sequence of bolts to 44 inch lbs (5 Nm) and then went around again and torqued to 88 inch lbs (10 Nm)

5. Its also 10 times easier if you have a buddy on the other side of the pan to help with the torquing sequence. This way you're not shuffling from one side of the car to the other.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
372 Posts
WOW:bow: great work on all the maintenance. I just finished doing most of this on my M-tech 1 as well, along with all the bushings. Keep up the great work, I look forward to seeing more of your progress.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,627 Posts
Very Thorough, very nice work. Wish I didn't pay someone to do this when I bought my car :banghead: but I didn't know anything about how an engine works beyond gas, spark, crankshaft, and pistons. How hard was transmission bushings? Does the car have to be level? I only have two jack stands and that's the final old bushing in my driveline...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,592 Posts
:bow:

I'm also going through all this with the e46 now!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
So here are a few visual updates that were done shortly after my first post but I haven't gotten to sharing until now.


Switched to a super heavy UUC shiftknob I've had forever and a black leather shift boot which I think looks way better. The original knob was busted when I got it anyway



Some pretty cool front end changes...

Matte black kidney grills, front plate delete (no tickets so far, knock on wood), OEM orange/black turn signal lenses I found for $5 on eBay & Evan used some matte black vinyl wrap on the headlight inserts for me. You can see they were originally silver from earlier pictures in the thread. Much better now.



More matte black vinyl on the rear license plate area. Really sorry about the terrible photo quality :tsk:



Got a start on wrapping the door trim to matte black with shadowline as well. Not done yet haha but I'll finish someday.



Originally purchased these 3-piece Ronal ACT SX for the e36. Ended up stripping the clear coat on the lips and polishing. Only had the wheels on the e36 for a week or so before someone pulled out in front of me and totalled her. Not the biggest fan of 17's on the e46 but they look better here than in the attic so why not. I think it would be cool to buy some wider lips and step them up to 18 someday. Monster truck fitment for now. I'll get some better pictures when it's nice out again.




Heres a pic of my old 328i sedan just for feelz

 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top