Subscribed! Planning to do something similar soon
My end goal is 400 on pump gas.... I used a fuel pump calculator with these settings: 6 injectors, 650cc flow rate, 50 psi fuel pressure, and 15psi of boost. It recommended a 234 LPH pump. I dont see myself running E85 anytime soon (its a pain in the ass to get where i live) so i think the walbro 450 is a little bit overkill for my application... I was thinking of getting the following pump (excuse the ebay link its just the cheapest place to buy this specific part):If you want such a high flow pump you will be save to rework the fuelsystem.
But do you need such a pump? Where are the limits of a healthy stock system? Perhaps a slightly stronger pump is the better solution.
I was running the GST 450 because it is rated for E85, but the original pump worked better...
And please excuse my bad english, I hope I use the right words
Hmmmmm im considering buying a used hose on ebay and testing the bending ideaThey don't seem to be too far in the way so for the hard lines by the manifold exit I think I will heat them up with a torch and bend them out of the way a little. For the lines running to the rear I will wrap them with heat tape and make sure they aren't too close to the down pipe. Honestly seems like something you kinda just need to make work on the fly. I rather have no turbo than no a/c, so a/c is mandatory on my car as well.
If anybody is curious, this is what a non-oem Febi dampener looks like. Pretty standard, but saves some coin.
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Was going to put "stage2" in this weekend but it just started snowing so am going to hold off to see what tomorrow looks like.
Also just ordered the PMAS HPX maf and CXracing exhaust manifold/downpipe.
I also have been waiting on the 4 bolt oil pump solution from bimmerworld, by gsx I believe. I suggest anybody putting money into their motor upgrade that, not worth it all going down the tube because of the stock bolt/shaft failing.
Has using that drain location worked out well for you? I still have my pan off and im worried that spot isnt high up enough.I just want to point out that a removed the oil pan to install that drain fitting in 2010.
I know that people do drill and tap the pan with it installed on the engine, then flush with fresh oil, but there still can be debris in the pan.
My car is currently on jack stands because I took a shortcut to install a sensor in the engine block. Debris got sucked in the oil pump, and jammed the pressure relief valve, causing oil pressure to oscillate between 70 and 110 PSI at idle.
On a car with a stock engine compartment, dropping the oil pan can be done in approximately 1 hour. Because of how modified my engine bay is, it became a 1/2 day project, with re-assembly taking even more time. I also had to remove my oil pump and strip it to bits to clean it....
Ive also heard about that before and seen it done on M50/M52 builds before.A variation of PEI330ci,s suggestion.
GeorgeG gave me a fantastic piece of advise for the oil return on mine, it was so obviously a brilliant idea after he mentioned it, but something I seriously overlooked- timing case :idea:
Looks good! Hopefully you get the A/C problems sorted soon.So here are the ac lines. These guys didn't think it out and now have to redo the condenser fitting as they are completely in the way of the headlight. Also now my ac isn't working and my fan stuck on high. I have created a thread about that in the general forum. Will update soon. This sucks. View attachment 631121 View attachment 631122 View attachment 631123 View attachment 631124 View attachment 631125
so excited to see this!!! :excited: