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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all. I have been watching plenty of people have success with turbo builds so I have taken the plunge. Now that my turbo has arrived I feel I can start a thread for it. My goal is to build a turbo setup that does not require pulling the head at first, I plan to do this by running conservative boost pressures and e85 fuel. I have spent a lot of time on the MS43 thread and have that dialed in as much as a average human can. This makes the biggest hurdle, tuning, now available. The software continues to progress. I hope by the time I get this all bolted up, more progress is made so tuning is even easier. In this build I will try to save money where possible, however I do not want to cheap out on things that will make or break the build in the long run. As my car sits it is fully up to maintenance standards, is a 2002 330ci, and has a 3.07 wavetrac rear end and ECS tuning lightweight flywheel/M5 clutch. It has a oil catch can to help with vacuum. It also has plenty of suspension parts thrown at it.

I chose to try to follow Hobbits project, but not go as far as he has. He has been very helpful recommending parts. He really pulls off some amazing feats. I have not spoken with them yet, but Rally Road is pretty local to me, I hope they will be able to help as well. I am using some of their products too. With that, I also chose to run a ChinaCharger ebay turbo. I chose a dual ball-bearing gtx3076r unit. It seems like it has decent quality, and only has very minimal shaft play. the only other downside I have found is the turbine housing casting is pretty shotty, should be alright though. I also am using the CX racing manifold, downpipe and intercooler setup. Like I said, save money where I can.

For Boost control I will be running the Innovate SCG-1 AFR/Boost gauge and contoller. This works well with the BMW Logger Software.

RK Tunes 60lb Injectors

HPX MAF Sensor

CSF Racing Radiator (with ecu mod target temp 85C?)

Manilfold wrap and gold tape galore for heat protection

Tial Sport Wastegate (I want to run the dump tube back into the downpipe to keep the noise down using 1/2" pipe and some flex tube)

Rally Road Vanos oil feed adapter and Feed line

Walbro 450lbh Fuel Pump

Fuelab mini Fuel Pressure Regulator

K&N Racing 25 micron Fuel Filter

A single, new NGK O2 sensor in the downpipe for the ECU.

New OEM Coils

PTP Lavs Heat Blanket

OEM manifold Gaskets

--and more to come like eventually a new harmonic dampener, but I want to get it running first. I want to complete this build and run in this configuration for a while, and if I still want too, then pull the heads and run a proper thicker/better head gasket and studs.

My first plan of action is to install the fuel system in the standard NA car. I will likely do this next week. I am in Michigan and it has been freezing, so just waiting for a bit of a thaw. I will post up how I end up doing this, but plan on just putting the new filter and regulator in the same place as the standard filter/regulator part.

My second plan of action is install the radiator, intercooler(just the main part), and the coolant hose adapter for turbo coolant. I plan to run coolant from this hose adapter to the turbo, and back down to the block's drain plug. I also plan to install the new HPX maf and delete one o2 sensor at this time and work out all the bugs in that system.

Then, I will go ahead and put the car out of commision as I install the turbo, manifold, and all the rest of the needed parts. I then plan of tuning it using the TunerPro Software hopefully with a provided base tune and the help of a tuning professional at a dyno.

At each of these steps I will list the exact parts I end up using, their links, and some pics of the install. I really hope this thread will become usefull for people in the future. I will also share all my dyno and tune data so that people have a good place to start.

As of now my most pressing questions are:

Which vacuum hose should I tap for the MAP sensor in the EBC? And what should I do with the vaccum hoses that are currently attached to the F connector on the intake boot?

Is it ok to run the turbo oil drain above the drain plug and threaded into the pan? I realize this will be under the oil level, and creat a long and sloped drain line from the turbo, under the manifold, and to the back of the motor where the oil pick-up is?

How do I set up the ECU to run one o2 sensor and how do I know which wire is which before I make some cuts? My current headers melted the connectors so I will be hard-wiring the new o2 sensor in.

Any air filter or tubing recommendations? I realize there isn't much room to work with. I would like to recirculate the BOV in front of the turbo just to keep noise down if possible, but if all I can do is run a short filter, so be it.




Current Engine/Drivetrain Parts List:

eBay China GTX3076r. the expensive, "nice" ball bearing one
CX Racing intercooler and piping
CX Racing Manifold and Downpipe- Use trimmed oem gaskets and heat wrap(more ebay china)
UPR Catch Can
Burger Motorsports Air filter
PMAS HPX Maf
Greddy Type FV Blow off valve (make sure you buy genuine!)
Tial Wastegate (buy genuine!)
AEM TruBoost Gauge and AEM UEGO wideband
ATI gauge pod
CSF radiator
NGK 4644 plugs
Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator
Magnaflow race muffler 3"
Diffsonline 3.38 two way limited slip differential
UPR vacuum block
Walbro 450lph fuel pump
FUELAB mini fuel regulator
K&N stainless mesh canister fuel filter
Rally Road Vanos turbo oil feed adapter and line
ECS Tuning lightweight flywheel and E34 M5 clutch
Bronze pivot pin
Rotella T6 Oil
Sealed Disa, aftermarket O-Ring
Brake Booster "T" check valve and replaced with normal "T" to the vacuum block
Vibrant female NPT turbo drain fitting>45* NPT to -10 male AN fitting>90*female -10 to -10 oil hose
Bosch 58lb injectors, being replaced with 110lb
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Just got around to pulling the housings off. This is the turbo on eBay- https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/111282329383
Quality of the impellers seem pretty good, you can see where the end nuts were ground to balance the setup. I'm guessing i should drill and tap the spot I'm pointing at for the boost pressure line going to the gauge and controller? Auto part Muffler
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also on the subject of the turbo is the oil restrictor. I emailed the seller asking what oil restrictor they recommend. A real garret dual bb turbo calls for a .035" or 1mm restrictor.

I asked the seller a few other questions, like the thread size of the oil and coolant holes. They got back to me and said the restrictor is built in, but it looks very large. They also told me the wrong thread sizes. So I am not too convinced I would not run a restrictor. The "built in restrictor" just looks like a AN fitting to me. Will likely order a few restrictors to have on hand. Cheap insurance. Auto part Wheel Machine tool Machine Rim
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
No, I have the turbo, rad, intercooler setup, fuel pump, regulator, filter, o2 sensor, bunch of AN fittings, Coolant adapter, oil feed lines and adapter, new coils, manifold and oil pan gaskets, and oil pump nut solution. I order a few parts each week to be nice to my wallet ;). Like I said above, I plan to do this build in stages. I will order the rest of the parts as I move along when they are needed.

This is a big "investment". I am not a dreamer, this will get done, but I am taking my time so that it is well thought out and the details are considered. If anybody wants to suggest different parts I would really appreciate any help!
 

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No, I have the turbo, rad, intercooler setup, fuel pump, regulator, filter, o2 sensor, bunch of AN fittings, Coolant adapter, oil feed lines and adapter, new coils, manifold and oil pan gaskets, and oil pump nut solution. I order a few parts each week to be nice to my wallet ;). Like I said above, I plan to do this build in stages. I will order the rest of the parts as I move along when they are needed.

This is a big "investment". I am not a dreamer, this will get done, but I am taking my time so that it is well thought out and the details are considered. If anybody wants to suggest different parts I would really appreciate any help!
So i hear a interesting update in the MS43... maybe you shouldn´t buy the boost controller in the near future ;)

How much are the injectors?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So i hear a interesting update in the MS43... maybe you shouldn´t buy the boost controller in the near future ;)



How much are the injectors?

The updates just keep getting better and better! The future is very bright for ms43 tuning.

The injectors are $330 USD, flow matched 60lb, from rk tunes. Have another idea?

Thanks for your help daniel_f.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Now that I look at them and see other m54 injectors, I am not sure if the RK tunes(who does mainly e36 turbo stuff, M50) injectors fit the M54 manifold. I was planning on keeping that stock instead of going M50. Is my thinking right that they are a different style injector that cant be swapped?

Although this guy seems to use completely different injectors all together. http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?page_id=12

I am not sure at all. I want to run RK injectors if I can as Hobbit has their data and they are a decent price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok, great, I just ordered them, thanks!

What should I do with the vacuum lines that would usually be attached to the F-connector on the stock stop intake booot? Doesn't one go to the brake booster and the other the fuel system?
 

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Are they better or something? They are slightly more expensive and look at lot different, is the fitment interchangeable? Here are links comparing the two:


http://treperformance.com/i-23893518-genuine-bosch-0280158123-ev14-590cc-fuel-injectors-6.html

http://www.rktunes.com/injectors/60lb-siemens-deka-injectors

definetly you cant run RK injectors with the M54 intake manifold.....
you need to use the Bosch ones like daniel says....
good luck with your amazing project bro
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Thanks jdjg.

The fuel pressure regulator just came in. It is the mini FPR by Fuelab. It seems like a quality piece and is rated for 25-90 psi and up to 2.5 gpm @ 25psi. Should be plenty for the m54.

I will mount this and the fuel filter where the stock unit is. I am still debating just running this hanging off the fuel filter or putting some fuel line between them. This unit is very light and compact, so far so good. Also may look for a higher quality pressure gauge, but this one just came with it- think a better one is needed or have any suggestions?

View attachment 625921 Gauge Automotive tire Measuring instrument Tool
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Get the fuel filter from E39 M54, it has a changeable pressure regulator and there all all sorts of regulators that fit, even adjustable.

Since I will be running E85 I wanted to make sure I will not run into paper filter issues as sometimes the e85 makes them deteriorate, so I need a stainless steel mesh filter. I have a high flow k&n 25 micron filter with dual -6 AN fittings on the way. Technology Auto part Electronic device Wheel Bottle
 

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I would not use an fpr with an gauge on it in any car. When they break they do a fountain of fuel. I saw burn cars, because of a broken gauge.

Like daniel said, take a e39 filter with an intercangeable oem fpr they do a realy nice job, but if you use a 450 l/h pump you need to lower the flow at idle.

I used mann + hummel paper filter on e85 for 80000 km without any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Ok I'll look into it. I will be running a 450 pump though. Worst comes to worst, I will remove the gauge when not tuning. There is no risk of fire as it will be under the car and behind the oem shield.

Going to install the pump, fpr, and stainless mesh filter on my na car this week just to give it a trial run though.
 
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