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JL Audio Speaker Upgrade

4K views 37 replies 10 participants last post by  jinxie 
#1 ·
So My mid/tweeters are blown, and I was thinking of changing the factory speakers to a component JL Audio setup in the front doors (I have an E46 M3 with the H/K system).

What do you guys think of these? BTW I'm not afraid to modify the mounting brackets to make these things fit right.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_20994_JL+Audio+C2-525.html
 
#5 · (Edited)
why go with 5 1/4" when you can go 6 1/2"?



I 2nd that! :thumbup: ...I'd rather pay $200 for 2 pairs of Boston 6 1/2" components than $150 for one set of JL 5 1/4"
- Boston 6 1/2 components -

By the way, be aware that if you're using your factory HK amp & radio and whatnot, that your aftermarket speakers are going to have a different impedance and likely to be drawing less power from your amp. Also your factory amp has built-in x-overs which will affect the sound when putting that signal into the x-overs that come supplied with your new component set. In other words, it may not sound as you'd expect, and if that is the case, it's nothing wrong with the speakers themselves but the set-up.
 
#11 ·
Those are good speakers. Definitely get the 6.5, as they will fit in your door w no problem. Your next priority should be to replace the factory amp with one that will make those speakers sound the way they're supposed to.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Not sure if this question makes sense...
Ok, in summary, if we replace our speakers with aftermarket equipment - and we want them to sound good - then we must also replace the factory amp with an aftermarket amp.

My question is: How does BSW accomplish this task? If I'm not mistaken, they sell replacement speakers that are plug-and-play. If we are adding BSW speakers (again, not factory but aftermarket), how come there is no need to replace the factory amp?

Appreciate the help.
 
#22 ·
Thanks for the input. If I were to replace the amp I would have to replace all the speakers then correct? Otherwise the rear speakers will not have any crossovers because the original setup has the crossover in built into the amp.

Still any recomendations on a decent amp that won't break the bank?
 
#23 ·
Not a bad idea to go used with the amp if you wanna save money. No moving parts and well-built amps generally last a long time. I'd rather get a nice amp that is used than a new POS.

With that said, I'd get an old RF Punch 100ixDSM for the cool factor. Or an older US Amps USA-100x or 150x. If you want new, Sundown Audio makes a nice 100x2 which retails for $300.
 
#35 ·
please do not buy RF Punch products.. they are not "solid or well built" by any means. They are a main stream "look cool", "reasonable priced" product that does not compare to a JL audio amp, alpine higher end amp or other higher end products..
 
#30 ·
jinxie...are you running just one sub in the trunk or two? Furthermore, would the car sound fine with just one sub in the trunk or would two subs be more sufficient? Reason I ask is I rather save some cash and purchase one sub and one 5channel amp than getting two subs, with two amps.
 
#32 ·
I will either be running one 12" Fi sub :thumbup: or three 10" Fi subs... :thumbsup: in either case i will be using one 5-channel amp with the subwoofer channel running @ 1-ohm. and for the full range speakers, I'm going to be running two pairs of Boston Pro 6.5 components in the doors and rear parcel shelf (rear deck) :excited:

I used to have one 12" Rockford Power T2 Subwoofer (60 pounds not including the box)with a mono amp. At that time i had factory mids and HU and it was waaaaaay loud. But heavy and a pain in the arse to get to my spare tire. needless to say my head was moving like this guy --> :excited:

Anyhoo, If you get the right sub, right box, airspace and a decent amp then i think one subwoofer can be quite sufficient. :D

I will put up a detailed DIY thread with photos and HD video when i get around to installing it. I have this idea for a stereo mod that no one else has done in an E46 and trying to figure out how to make it work. once i do then i'll post it as i go.:p
 
#31 ·
I thought you needed to mod something to get the kicker's to fit in the OEM sub enclosure? Why not add a small sealed box in the trunk and just take it out when you go to the track?

Ideally, I like going with a separate sub amp. 3+ ch amps share a single power supply most of the time. Not optimal when you have a power hungry sub affecting the same amp that is driving your front and rear speakers. Not to mention, 4ch amps usually have more thermal issues than 2 2ch amps in my experience. 4/5 ch amps are pretty limited in output, you might find a 100x4 or a 50x5/300x1.

The good part is a 4/5ch amp is MUCH easier to install. 1 run of wire. 1 amp to find space for.

Really, it depends on how serious you are about sound? Do you want 1000+ watts for your sub? How much space are you willing to give up?
 
#33 · (Edited)
....Why not add a small sealed box in the trunk and just take it out when you go to the track?
:thumbup:
Ideally, I like going with a separate sub amp. 3+ ch amps share a single power supply most of the time. Not optimal when you have a power hungry sub affecting the same amp that is driving your front and rear speakers. Not to mention, 4ch amps usually have more thermal issues than 2 2ch amps in my experience. 4/5 ch amps are pretty limited in output, you might find a 100x4 or a 50x5/300x1.

The good part is a 4/5ch amp is MUCH easier to install. 1 run of wire. 1 amp to find space for.

Really, it depends on how serious you are about sound? Do you want 1000+ watts for your sub? How much space are you willing to give up?
My reasoning for suggesting a single 5-channel amp = We're in a damn RECESSION! :excited:Save your money! why buy two when one will do? J/K

I agree it is easier to install just one. My trunk space is small! plus i'd rather not have any issues with getting to the spare tire if needed. Also, you can find a multi-channel amp with decent power. Mine will run 1000 watts @1-ohm on the sub channel. In my case i'm also running 360amp Iraggi alternator + Kinetik battery rather than my stock one which i think was 120-160amps so i shouldn't have any current issues.
 
#37 ·
If you're planning to run any Fi sub, I wouldn't be getting a 5 channel amp.

Fi make serious audio products, and 5 channel amps are not for serious audio setups. They are intended for an all-in-one package, like Jae said before, you will be hard pushed to find one that will put out 100w to each corner, and more than 200w for the mono sub channel.

Just get a small 2/4 channel for the speakers, and a separate mono-block amp for the sub(s). There are plenty of brands that make decent D class amps which save a fair bit of space.
 
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