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Jacking rear end - one floor jack?

35K views 20 replies 12 participants last post by  Phoenix330ci  
#1 ·
Hi guys,

Firstly I've searched extensively on this, every single thread or site I've come across involves using two floor jacks.

At my disposal, I have a 3 ton floor jack, two jack stands, wheel chocks, and wheel ramps. The ramps are much too high profile for me to back up onto - would removing the rear bumper cover really make much a difference with clearance? It's worth the 2 minutes to me if so.

Regardless, if you intelligent fellows haven't pieced it together already;

How can I get my rear in the air, on jackstands, using one floor jack?

I need to adjust the rear spring perches, after putting my 18s back on with the car much lower than before, I rub on more significant curves and bumps in the road, and I want to eliminate this. My tires aren't getting pillaged - just a 1 cm area getting light abrasion, but over time I'm sure I can rub down to the belts. I will not let it get to that point. They have been on about a week now, maybe ~300 miles of driving, and I don't want to push it any further.

Excuse the novel, as always help is appreciated. Thanks in advance

Cheers! :thumbup:
 
#6 ·
Uhhhh....No.

You don't jack the car up on the differential. You would use the brace like AndreBXP stated.

On lowered cars or even ones with the Mtech II bumpers, if you are using the ramps to lift the front end up, it is hard to get a jack under the rear bumper. The solution to that is to get the front up on ramps, then jack one rear corner at the jacking pad, slip a 2x10 under that wheel and set it back down. Repeat with the other side. Once you do that you should have enough room under the rear bumper to get the jack to the bracket near the differential and finish jacking the car up until you can get your jacks under the jacking points on the sides.

Slowly and carefully lower the car on the jack stands. Be careful here as one side always tends to make contact quicker than the other so just watch for sliding.
 
#12 ·
No matter what brand or how sturdy jack stands are it's always a nervous feeling when I'm working under my car and having to untorque/torque things by hand while the car is supported on jack stands and the jack is used as a safety net without bearing any load. :bawling:

I wish I had a lift. Life would be so much easier.

But going back to topic I use the brace and haven't had any issues. I also drive onto blocks of wood to get some ground clearance for the jack.
 
#13 ·
drive the rear up on 2x4s to gain clearance
put car in gear
chock the front wheels
jack from rear under the cross brace (by the diff)
place jack stands at the rear side rail jack points

Done :thumbup:
 
#21 ·
Yeah that is the problem the ceiling height. The alternate would be their other model like a $100-200 cheaper, but then you need to dig a pit in the floor. A log time ago my neighbor did just that in his garage floor, only the pit part and it was like 6' deep. Little too deep as he had to use a crate to stand on. He dug it out and lined it in CMU, and poured a concrete floor. The top of the block was like about 2" shorter than the finished garage floor and then he used some heavy 2" planks like 12" wide to close off the top when not in use.

I have searched this out one other time and someone actually makes a mini post that is connected to a pump and maybe only lifts the car like 3' max or something. The lifting arms didn't swing out like a two post but you drove over the lifting plate like the one above. Still have to lay on your back to work under it but gives you enough room to say drop a tranny yet lifts the car safely.

The design I saw for that one actually looked really simple to maybe build on your own or at least have fabed up for you for not as much.