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Discussion Starter #1
2003 330ci. Good thing there's a trusty Disco2 to carry me around for parts, but no matter how many parts I put on the same issue persists: Car will start fine when cold. When warm, car will not start. I thought it was the starter. Changed the starter and while having to get into all that did the other maintenance renewals of hoses and gaskets and all. Car starts and runs fine. Get to the destination, have to wait until car cools down before it will start. After the fun starter replacement and doing everything else my sweet 330ci wanted, she rewards me with no respect, no love. I even reworked the ignition switch and thought that would do it. Same issue. Starts cold. Won't start warm. Bought new ignition switch and same problem.

Can anyone please offer some crazy solutions to the issue or reason for the issue? The Landrover wants to rest a bit. And I want to drive my e46.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Pardon the vagueness of my question

Took a look through the materials provided, and thanks.

Should have specified the condition is "No Crank No Start" -- if it cranked over it would start no doubt. No problem. Always starts.

But when the engine is hot/warm there is no crank -- starter just replaced.

Was behaving in same way before starter replacement.
 

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If you ruled out the usual suspects, possibly the evap purge valve? My car was doing kinda the same thing when I first got it and it turned out to be a faulty purge valve.

Edit: didn***8217;t realize you said no crank. Maybe the key is acting up?
 

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My previous Merc ML430 had that issue. It was a crankshaft sensor. If you have a diagnostic tool scan the car for codes. You should get pending(shadow) codes for either one of the camshaft sensors or the crankshaft sensor. I'm almost certain it is that.... the next culprit can be the fuel pump and/or filter.
 

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yes, i had an issue with my civic , when car was closed in heat, wouldn't start , half hour with windows open, it would start

ended up, the main relay was in the footwell


heat expands metal, all you need is a bad solder , etc

it's something electrical
 

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Voltage drop? Poor connection at jumping post?
Bad engine ground strap?
 

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Check:
1) head temp sensor
2) fuel pressures (rest, running, etc..)
3) ECU for codes, if any are stored
 

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I agee with #3, that should be the first thing to check.
But, how would #1 and #2 cause a no crank?
He said it would not start, not "no crank". If it does not crank when hot, that's a different issue. Should add, cam or crank sensors can cause a no start situation.
 

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2004 330Ci 85k miles
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He said it would not start, not "no crank". If it does not crank when hot, that's a different issue. Should add, cam or crank sensors can cause a no start situation.
True, post #1 doesn’t specify. But his post #4 does say no crank.
Wasn’t trying to correct you, just thought maybe you knew something I didn’t with respect to no-crank situations.

OP needs to go through our no-start guide, read trouble codes, measure voltages, etc. The usual troubleshooting stuff.
 

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True, post #1 doesn’t specify. But his post #4 does say no crank.
Wasn’t trying to correct you, just thought maybe you knew something I didn’t with respect to no-crank situations.

OP needs to go through our no-start guide, read trouble codes, measure voltages, etc. The usual troubleshooting stuff.
Sorry, didn't see his #4 post. I'd still look at the sensors. If there are no codes, it's usually an ignition switch or grounding issue. The switches are tough to diagnose for some, as it's difficult to reliably reproduce the issue with a tester hooked up. I've found over the decades, people who have large, or weighty key chains tend to eat up ignition switches. Let's face it, German electrics aren't exactly robust. ; )
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Like I said, it's a good thing the Discovery 2 drives. The e46 remains in the garage. Since the weather has warmed, definitely no crank. No noise. No nothing. And yes, the problem is in the starting circuitry. Have replaced the crankshaft position sensor. Have replaced both camshaft position sensors. Replaced B+ cable to the megafuse (250A). Coolant temp sensor (under intake manifold) also replaced.

Electronics come on when the key is turned on. It will start (meaning it cranks in order to start) if ambient temperature is below 70 degrees F. Get above that and no crank is the condition. Immobilizer circuits not corrupted since the electronics come on when the switch is turned to second position.

So problem is not from EWS side. Problem is that signal isn't coming to starter from DME side of things.

Maybe I don't know whether I've got that understood right, but I think I do.

Question is: why, when temperature of engine is warm there is a no crank position.

No transmission cable (I think) because manual transmission.

Why would temperature impact the 'sync' code? Is that what is going on, something with the 'sync' code?

Help!
 

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Stupid question, but I didn't catch if you said you have a new battery or not. If not, how old is the battery? Have you tested it? If its old and a few plates happen to be low on acid/fluid it could show an ok voltage and run well enough to start, but overheats after a bit of load and croaks.
 

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Car will start fine when cold. When warm, car will not start.
Definition of START? engine running; engine cranked and turned?

I see people had spent a lot of times just trying to understand the real issue.

OP, no body can read what's inside your head. So tell us clearly next time when you have the same problem.

I think the problem is the signal from the ESW to the starter went bad at hot engine temperature, and not the starter or the heavy 12v cable or grounding cable.

There are 2 smaller signal wires connected to the starter. You should check the voltage during cranking at cool temp, then compare to the voltage when hot and it doesn't crank over.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Stupid question, but I didn't catch if you said you have a new battery or not. If not, how old is the battery? Have you tested it? If its old and a few plates happen to be low on acid/fluid it could show an ok voltage and run well enough to start, but overheats after a bit of load and croaks.
Brand new battery . . .
 
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